Not again.

scupking

scupking

Active Member
Sep 18, 2005
1,186
1
36
Enfield, CT
#1
I'm getting pissed off. I had my rear end rebuilt and gears installed at the beginning of July for $1,000. All was good for a week. Then I noticed my differential started to leak and my gears started to wine. I brought the car back 3 weeks ago and they said that the new bearings they put in failed. So they replaced them for free and I figured, ok all is good. Well a few days after they fixed it I was walking out to my car on lunch break and noticed a small puddle under my differential. The other day I washed my car and looked under the car to see a drip hanging off the differential and another small puddle under it. I dipped my finger in and smelled the fluid, which smelt burnt. What the heck is going on? This is now going on 3 months with this problem. The car is going back in Thursday to get fixed again. If they don’t' do it right this time I want my $1,000 back and I will take it to a different shop. What do you guys think could be the problem?
 
#2
Crappy installers.

The guy that installed mine did it for $200 and Ive drove the car for going on 3 years and about 17,000 miles now. Trust me those weren't easy miles either and I havent had one problem and I didn't even break them in like every one says to.

Everyone claims to be the best installer, tuner, ect. but the truth is maybe 5% of the people that say they are, are really that good. I've learned that with tuning my car.
 
#4
$1,000 for bearings replace, and R&P install? If im seeing that correct you got hosed incredibly bad.

It costed $125 for my R&P, FRPP is $170-230 depending on what you get.

$90 or so for a Ratech master bearing kit from Summit Racing, including pinion seal and axl bearings.

$45 for a t-lok rebuild kit.

$40 or so for Mobil 1 synthetic 75w140 diff fluid.

$300 for the install including bearings and seals.

So... $705 or so even if you paid $230 for a ring and pinion.

Id tell them to give a partial refund since they have done the work allready, and fixed it again for you and go somewhere else.
 
#5
BurningRubber said:
$1,000 for bearings replace, and R&P install? If im seeing that correct you got hosed incredibly bad.

It costed $125 for my R&P, FRPP is $170-230 depending on what you get.

$90 or so for a Ratech master bearing kit from Summit Racing, including pinion seal and axl bearings.

$45 for a t-lok rebuild kit.

$40 or so for Mobil 1 synthetic 75w140 diff fluid.

$300 for the install including bearings and seals.

So... $705 or so even if you paid $230 for a ring and pinion.

Id tell them to give a partial refund since they have done the work allready, and fixed it again for you and go somewhere else.
Click to expand...


I agree, $1000 seems awfully high. I was not sure where to take mine so
asked at a local speed shop. He sent me to a guy who does all the local
street rodders here. My bearings were shot and I switched from the stock
3.27 to 4.10s for about $600 I think. Haven't had a problem. He told me if
I thought it was noisy bring it back and he'd tweak it. Never had it back.
 
#7
I would be careful doing that, they might be doing more damage than good. I will usually give some one a second chance but I never give them a third. When my tuner screwed up my car I let him fix it, after that it still wasn't fixed and I moved on. I now tell people to stay clear of that tuner.
 
#9
First, the leaking and bearings are a separate issue. The Diff can only leak from two places. The pinion seal and the rear cover. No way bad bearings will cause the rear cover to mysteriously start to leak. If they mount the rear cover properly, using a good quality RTV (there are silicon variants that will slowly fail in the presence of gas/oil), made sure the cover was not warped, made sure the old RTV was removed completely, and properly torqued the bolts, there's just no way it can start to leak there. They must be omitting the RTV, or omitting the cleanup leaving chunks of RTV to prevent a good seal, or using poor RTV.

The bearings are a different issue. I assume they know how to set the bearing pre-load by forcing in shims beyond the "snug fit" stage? If they don't, as the bearings slowly seat, they develop play, and then the rear-end side play will beat them to death quickly.

Bad thing is that the bearing end-play also plays hell with the ring/pinion backlash and can ruin these quickly.
 
#10
BobHyatt said:
First, the leaking and bearings are a separate issue. The Diff can only leak from two places. The pinion seal and the rear cover. No way bad bearings will cause the rear cover to mysteriously start to leak. If they mount the rear cover properly, using a good quality RTV (there are silicon variants that will slowly fail in the presence of gas/oil), made sure the cover was not warped, made sure the old RTV was removed completely, and properly torqued the bolts, there's just no way it can start to leak there. They must be omitting the RTV, or omitting the cleanup leaving chunks of RTV to prevent a good seal, or using poor RTV.

The bearings are a different issue. I assume they know how to set the bearing pre-load by forcing in shims beyond the "snug fit" stage? If they don't, as the bearings slowly seat, they develop play, and then the rear-end side play will beat them to death quickly.

Bad thing is that the bearing end-play also plays hell with the ring/pinion backlash and can ruin these quickly.
Click to expand...


The bearings where all chewed up the 2nd time they fixed it and that was with only a month driveing on the new bearings. I'm going to call them up soon to see what they found.
 
#15
I'm not sure how the pinion angle would cause the leak. The pinion gear is on a shaft that through-bolts out the front of the differential, running on a bearing. It is bolted up tightly against the crush-collar. Getting the pinion angle off by either allowing the rear end to rotate forward or backward, or having the tranny tailshaft too high or low, usually will eat up the universal joints and cause it to make noise and cause problems up front at the tranny seal as the driveshaft will slightly move forward/backward as it rotates.

But how that will wreck the pinion seal is hard to imagine assuming everything is tightened up properly, since the pinion shaft has no fore/aft play, and it can't wobble due to the bearing...
 
#16
scupking said:
I just called to check on a status. He said they replaced the seal. I told him what you said and his reply was "I have heard of that before". I then asked him why this has failed 3 times, he replied with "At this point I don't no, If it happens again we know something else is wrong".
Click to expand...

Thats the same crap the dealrship did with my moms car when she had a Chrysler 300C. It was making this weird noise and had odd vibrations at 60+mph. They just kept trying things to see if it would fix it but never really checked to see what the problem might be.

They repalced the transmission, U Joints, then said it had a misfire, transmission flush, ect, ect.

It was one thing after another and finally I told her to get rid the POS.
 
#17
04YELLOWGT said:
Thats the same crap the dealrship did with my moms car when she had a Chrysler 300C. It was making this weird noise and had odd vibrations at 60+mph. They just kept trying things to see if it would fix it but never really checked to see what the problem might be.

They repalced the transmission, U Joints, then said it had a misfire, transmission flush, ect, ect.

It was one thing after another and finally I told her to get rid the POS.
Click to expand...

I do notice a viberation when on the highway. Hell if it keeps acting up I will trade it in for a 01 cobra I found yesterday.
 
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