PBR calipers

[ninety15.0]

Hey guys i have a quick question. can i just swap out my stock calipers for the twin piston aluminum PBR calipers? What is involved in this swap. Fox braking sucks we all know that. Right now i have EBC drilled slotted stock replacement rotors with EBC greenstuff pads and synthetic fluid. The brakes work better than stock...but only marginally.

I can get a sweet deal on some PBR calipers...and i was wondering if it would be worth it if the swap was really straightforward. Thanks for any info!

 

[Blandnuts]

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html

 

[iwashmycar]

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html

sooooooo....thats a no i guess from what i can tell.....but supposedly you can upgrade them to 73mm (i think) Lincoln calipers without all the fuss

 

[Shakerhood]

sooooooo....thats a no i guess from what i can tell.....but supposedly you can upgrade them to 73mm (i think) Lincoln calipers without all the fuss

If you do the Lincoln 73s in the Front you should upgrade the rear at the same time. Your all around Best choice is to use SN95 Brakes, they are Much better than the lame Stock Brakes.

 

[Prime Lord]

Agreed. if you're going to anything w/ the brakes, just got 5-lug 4-wheel disc. (unless you're hell bent on keeping your 4-lug wheels)

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

ninety50....that is hands down the best upgrade I did to my notchback. Get the 94-95 spindles, buy four 5/8" washers two per side, (this raises the cotter pin location where it should be....no need for expensive SN95 ball joints plus time and labor to replace.) Thenget the PBR calipers, brackets, rotors, lines. Buy a union for the passenger side caliper line to hard brake line. The fittings are different sizes so you need to go from 1/4" to 3/8"....cost me 1.37 at auto parts store. You also need to grind down the area on the caliper bracket where the caliper bolts go in. It only needs a little bit, bolt the bottom one up and you will see where the piston hits on the top edge....took me about 2 minutes each side. Then you need to turn your tie rod ends out to meet the spindles. Mine took about 17-18 times per side. I got it close to drive it.

Bleed the brakes, get an alignment and have some fun. I painted my calipers red and my caliper brackets metallic grey. They look sweet, but my 97 Cobra wheels don't show them off very well. They stop great too.

 

[ninety15.0]

SVT...thanks for the insight. As it sits right now i dont have the time, money or incentive to do the 5 lug swap. I have paint and a tranny to do before i get to spending a couple thousand on brakes/wheels.

Since i posted this i have been doing a lot of research/reading and when i do the brakes i want to do them right. Its going to be the full 13" cobra setup for the fronts with good rotors/pads and the cobra setup for the back as well. While im in there doing that i want to do the tubular K and arms with the C/O setup up front. So im a long time away from doing anything like that.

I just picked up some of those stainless caliper sleeves from MM. Im going to install those and see if that helps with my braking vibration. If not im going to check/replace the ball joints and tie rod ends. Those sleves will work on those 73mm SVO calipers too so i might toss some of those on there for the time being.

Does anyone have any experience with those 73mm SVO calipers. Do they make a noticeable difference? Thanks

-Nick

 

[iwashmycar]

besides the MM sleeves id say to just make sure the system is thoroughly bled and some stainless lines are always a good move if you dont already have them..

i researched the 73mm ones but its been a while and lost all my info


EDIT:

Originally Posted by speedytang
Installed 73mm on my '89 and changed nothing else and the pedal is fine. Been installed for 7 years. Just a note on the 73mm install. Stock rotors lost nothing in stop distance. Slotted and Drilled rotors gained 2 feet in length. Installed slotted rotors lost 7 feet. Was curious about the 7 feet, installed the stock calipers back on and lost 6.5 feet. 73mm calipers do nothing but cause clearance problems with Weld wheels of 15x3 or 15x5. I have both sizes and you must grind the metal of the pads to get clearance or the brake pad will dig into the rim. All measurements done with a G-Tech and a Laser Temperature gun to make sure the rotors started at the same temperature and stops started at 50 mph. MidOhio track day at 92 degrees air temperature and track temperature at 148 degrees. Tires used for test 91 16" GT wheels with stock size rubber using Nitto 555 Roadrace tires.
Now the Short Version.
Waste of Money and don't look any better than the stock Mustang Calipers.

 

[Shakerhood]

I would not waste my Money on the 73mm Calipers they do nothing, use the money for other stuff until you are ready to do the SN95 Upgrade.

 

[ninety15.0]

Thats kind of what i figured. If i went with the 73mm calipers i would need to buy a new set of brake pads for the fronts. My EBC greenstuff pads are like new. I have put 10k miles on them and i had them all apart the other day doing some inspection and they appears to have 0 wear!! Im not particularly hard on the brakes but i dont think its worth the 100 bucks to swap to the 73mm calipers if they arent going to give me any decent improvement. My setup right now is much better than stock...but i will just wait until i have a couple grand available for the full five lug/cobra brake swap! thanks for the info.

 

[LtDavis]

I would not waste my Money on the 73mm Calipers they do nothing, use the money for other stuff until you are ready to do the SN95 Upgrade.

the 73mm piston calipers with EBC greenstuffs, Powerslot rotors, Stoptech SS lines and 93 Cobra master cylinder improved the braking of my car tremendously