Slicks questions

CobraRed_96_GT

Active Member
May 20, 2006
1,421
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UCSD/La Jolla
so while im piecing together my engine conversion, im looking into some slicks combo's as well so i can have it ready. i'm running a 3.73 gear so i was thinking a 26" tall tire since i wont be trapping at incredibly high speeds. What i was thinking was a 15x8" rim with a 26x10x15 MT ET drag or street.

Questions:
- On the rims, would backspacing from 4.5-5.5 work fine?
- Would MT drags be too much tire for my N/A set up?
- Are 31 spline axles a must for running a MT ET street 26/10" on a 15x8?

looking to break into the 12's w/ PI heads/intake manifold, VT cams, 3.73's, MPH tune and all bolt-ons besides LT's. Thinking about a wet shot too since 12's are a bit optimistic to say the least.
 
so while im piecing together my engine conversion, im looking into some slicks combo's as well so i can have it ready. i'm running a 3.73 gear so i was thinking a 26" tall tire since i wont be trapping at incredibly high speeds. What i was thinking was a 15x8" rim with a 26x10x15 MT ET drag or street.

Questions:
- On the rims, would backspacing from 4.5-5.5 work fine?
- Would MT drags be too much tire for my N/A set up?
- Are 31 spline axles a must for running a MT ET street 26/10" on a 15x8?

looking to break into the 12's w/ PI heads/intake manifold, VT cams, 3.73's, MPH tune and all bolt-ons besides LT's. Thinking about a wet shot too since 12's are a bit optimistic to say the least.

To hit 12's your going to need literally every bolt on, plus stage 3 heads/cams.

Drag radials should be fine with the stock axles. However slicks are not a good idea with stock stuff. Just have back up money in case the axles snap from the drag radials. It's pretty much a crap shoot.
 
To hit 12's your going to need literally every bolt on, plus stage 3 heads/cams.

Drag radials should be fine with the stock axles. However slicks are not a good idea with stock stuff. Just have back up money in case the axles snap from the drag radials. It's pretty much a crap shoot.

No, you won't. You just need proper launch and traction. About 285-290whp and you can be in the 12's (be them high 12's).
 
All im looking for is a 12.99 n/a. Im not going to the track hoping for this on the first day, im going to work at this and try to learn from my bad runs. My built auto w/ 3200 stall should help some, at least in consistency. And im not thinking ill need stage 3 anything to break from 13's. There's been many before me that didn't need such, this guy's almost in mid 12's w/ stage 1 cams and less compression on the same heads as mine: http://youtube.com/watch?v=r_9ngzrCDsQ.
Im thinking drag radials/streets is the way to go, but if i break an axle i break an axle. I always have enough money ot fix what can break, it's just been a matter of justifying spending more money on my car when im in college and young. I could have gone KB FI awhile ago, but i'm trying to keep this a cheap project.
 
To hit 12's your going to need literally every bolt on, plus stage 3 heads/cams.

Drag radials should be fine with the stock axles. However slicks are not a good idea with stock stuff. Just have back up money in case the axles snap from the drag radials. It's pretty much a crap shoot.


not again..... You keep saying it over and over in every thread, and its been proven that you dont need it.

stock long block GT's with the stock cams are consistantly hitting 12's, in full weight with gears, suspension, and bolt ons. Geeze.....

Cobra Red, I would defenitely have the rear end beefed up if its your daily driver. If its not, Id just wait till you break something, then completely overhual it then. Ive seen cars go 75 passes. Bill Putnam made tons of passes in the 1.60 range with the stock rear. However, there are cars that will break the first time out to the track. New axles, spool or whatever way you want to go. Stay away from Auburn, and keep us updated

btw, slicks are never too much for any setup, just make sure you have the parts to support it or have another means of transportation if need be
 
not again..... You keep saying it over and over in every thread, and its been proven that you dont need it.

stock long block GT's with the stock cams are consistantly hitting 12's, in full weight with gears, suspension, and bolt ons. Geeze.....

Cobra Red, I would defenitely have the rear end beefed up if its your daily driver. If its not, Id just wait till you break something, then completely overhual it then. Ive seen cars go 75 passes. Bill Putnam made tons of passes in the 1.60 range with the stock rear. However, there are cars that will break the first time out to the track. New axles, spool or whatever way you want to go. Stay away from Auburn, and keep us updated

btw, slicks are never too much for any setup, just make sure you have the parts to support it or have another means of transportation if need be

:p yeah there's a few that still think 12's are FI territory, but i still need the skill to get there. This is my DD (if it wasn't this would be a lot easier, i could go Stage II cams and LT's) so i will look into some 31 spline axles and maybe just have them on hand if something breaks, then if nothing does and i do hit 12's im done w/ slicks and will sell the slicks/wheels/axles afterwards. Is it a bad idea to buy used axles? (don't know why someone would take em out tho) Cuz i don't want to take the hit on re-selling new axles if i can buy used one's and not need to use them.
I'm just trying to avoid opening the damn differential again.
 
not again..... You keep saying it over and over in every thread, and its been proven that you dont need it.

stock long block GT's with the stock cams are consistantly hitting 12's, in full weight with gears, suspension, and bolt ons. Geeze.....


+1, gears, stiffen up the suspension, slicks and practice to better launches (little wheel spin) and stage rolling plus a little weight reduction and you can get a mustang with about 225-230 hp into the very high 12's. Like 12.9x's Of course it takes one hell of a diver too :)
 
not again..... You keep saying it over and over in every thread, and its been proven that you dont need it.

stock long block GT's with the stock cams are consistantly hitting 12's, in full weight with gears, suspension, and bolt ons. Geeze.....


+1, gears, stiffen up the suspension, slicks and practice to better launches (little wheel spin) and stage rolling plus a little weight reduction and you can get a mustang with about 225-230 hp into the very high 12's. Like 12.9x's Of course it takes one hell of a diver too :)

well i should be over 230hp, even through the auto. Slicks help, ima strip it of everything not needed, and can get 104 unleaded cheap through my old job.
 
not again..... You keep saying it over and over in every thread, and its been proven that you dont need it.

stock long block GT's with the stock cams are consistantly hitting 12's, in full weight with gears, suspension, and bolt ons. Geeze.....

Cobra Red, I would defenitely have the rear end beefed up if its your daily driver. If its not, Id just wait till you break something, then completely overhual it then. Ive seen cars go 75 passes. Bill Putnam made tons of passes in the 1.60 range with the stock rear. However, there are cars that will break the first time out to the track. New axles, spool or whatever way you want to go. Stay away from Auburn, and keep us updated

btw, slicks are never too much for any setup, just make sure you have the parts to support it or have another means of transportation if need be

I misunderstood his ET goals. Obviously high 11's to low 12's N/A is a completely different story.
 
let me rephrase what I said, youll need every bolt on for low low 12's. I misunderstood his ET goals. High 12's is possibly with mild bolt on's/mods

yeah, im not delusional. Some have made it in mid/low 12's n/a but it's not exactly logical to hope for that w/out going fully balls out on mods. As long as eventually my slip starts with a 12 ill be happy, i know i'll be driving a 13 second car - i just want to know that i can accomplish something like 12's
 
well i should be over 230hp, even through the auto. Slicks help, ima strip it of everything not needed, and can get 104 unleaded cheap through my old job.

I yeah I know your car has way over 230hp:nice: but I was just saying with the things I mentioned above, a car with 230hp is able to run 12.9x's without going bolt-on crazy. (Add perfect race conditions too.) I know it's long shot but it's possible with the right driver. I forgot yours is an auto, but what I stated earlier is for a 5 speed, my bad. But good luck though man. Get vids if possible.
 
Id say no. Those wheels are steel wheels. During launch, that extra rotational weight puts a lot more stress on your rear end, axles, etc, not to mention they are going to be slower. I used to run centerline telstars, which are a nice compromise between the expense of Welds and cheap steel wheels.

Mark
 
Id say no. Those wheels are steel wheels. During launch, that extra rotational weight puts a lot more stress on your rear end, axles, etc, not to mention they are going to be slower. I used to run centerline telstars, which are a nice compromise between the expense of Welds and cheap steel wheels.

Mark
didn't think 15x8" wheels would be very heavy, but i guess it makes sence. Are telstars and welds aluminum?
 
yep, the telstars are aluminum 2 peice, and I know the welds are aluminum and proboly 2 peice as well. Im trying to look through my old post to see if I have any pictures of them on my old car. If I remember correctly, the telstars were only a pound or two heavier than welds prostar, and IMO, they look better.