I modified the #1 tube in the same fashion as the Dynomax headers were built, to all run above the X-member. Really very simple, and like above, i had an exhaust shop bend me up the pieces. Only drawback, if I remember right, was that you would have to omit or had to modify that crossmember that supports between the strut rods. I never got that far. I ended up hacking at the headers even further trying to get them to clear an AOD trans... that just didn't end too well. Ended up abandoning that project as I was getting ready to PCS (move). 
Eh.. that could have been... although I like to refer to it a "gettin' a piece"
OK! Here's some eye-candy for ya. I found these suckers burried out in my shed. The one on the Left is the modded one. They are both Headman headers. I cut the collectors off the modded ones as I was trying to figure out a way to get them to work with an AOD trans. The driver header was basically exactly the same as the Dynomax and probably the Hooker too.
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The welding was done with a flux core welder, so these are not really as nice as they appear in the photos. I do NOT recommend a flux core welder for this or anything less that 1/8" steel. I was in NM at the time and only had the crudest of tools to fabricate with. I mainly wanted to see if it 'could' be done, which it can. However I'd probably re-arrange the tube order in the collector to make for better clearance with that support brace that unbolts from the strut rod brackets.
Trust me, the pics do them justice. They are pretty beat up from being carted around 1/2 the united states. I'd just mod the Headman's you have. Install the Passenger side header without the #1 tube and you'll be able to see where it can be re-routed to. I just don't understand why Headman just didn't do it like that to begin with.
What I may do after our new baby girl comes, and is less of a handful, I may buy a few sets of these Headmans and modify them to rid of that stupid #1 tube.
