I have a C-4 in a fox question ??

[Bottlefed83]

I am trying to put a C4 into my 83, and it is being a total pain in the ass. I have the maximum motorsports tube K- member. My problem is that the tranny mount was too far forward so I moved the motor back to the second set of holes on the k-member for the motor to set in. and now the steering coupler hits the motor mount and the tranny mount is where it needs to be but over to one side WAY to much. All of the mounts are urathane. but the tranny mount came from my T-5. Does that make the diference? Anybody else have problem or can help me out? What is the deal here?

 

[yello05]

steve, did you cut the welds and slide the mount forward when you first mocked it up in the forward position? I could swear that was all it took. It kinda sounds like the mount may have been put in backwards, that would make the offset you are seeing. Just a thought.

 

[Bottlefed83]

The mount was way far forward though, like not even line with the bolts on the body for the crossmember. I got another crossmember that is all the way forward now. That with the motor moved back is how I got to this point.

 

[yello05]

hmm, weird that it would be offset to the one side though. Thats the only thing I could think of- if the mount was in backwards (right side to left, etc) cause I thought they had some offset to them. Now that I think about it I dont think the humps would fit the tunnel the opposite way though.

 

[Bottlefed83]

What about the urathane tranny mount? are they the same from stick to auto. I talked to the kid I traded my T-5 for and he bolted it in his car perfect after the auto was in. So I dont know where the problem is. But I did move the motor back up to the front set of holes and I think I might modify the crossmember. That is kinda what it looks like it needs, is for the crossmember to be turned around, but If you do that then the holes are to far back because on the ends of the crossmember are at one end.

 

[orangewhiner]

I know for a fact that the t-5 and c-4 mounts are one in the same. As far as the k-member and lining it all up

 

[yello05]

It sounds like you just need to cut the welds on the crossmember and slide the tubes to the opposite end. This is how the swaps are usually done (AOD-T5)

 

[Bottlefed83]

I know for a fact that the t-5 and c-4 mounts are one in the same. As far as the k-member and lining it all up

Yea thats what the guy I traded my tranny for also said.

Thanks

It sounds like you just need to cut the welds on the crossmember and slide the tubes to the opposite end. This is how the swaps are usually done (AOD-T5)

Yea as long as the humps can go on either side that may work because right now I have a crossmember in the car that is like that, but it seems like it would need to be turned around and re welded on the other side. But also now that I put the motor back in the first set on holes on the k-member now I'm about 1/2" before the crossmember. Because if I have the motor in the rear holes the motor mount hits the steering coupler. This is a bunch of B.S. really.

 

[yello05]

stick with the front holes, to fix the coupler issue, and just hog out the holes in the crossmember a bit. You should be able to get the 1/2" easily enough. You can get it all mocked up and running without welding the crossmember tubes in place if you dont have a welder there. Aint like its going anywhere.

You'll get it, aftermarket is always fun

 

[Bottlefed83]

I just went out and looked. If I turn the crossmember around and re weld the tubes on the other end I may be able to get it to work. I will check later today.

Thanks

 

[stock50LX]

Sounds like he's got it now. I would add to the already good advice given that the motor mounts have a front and back too; reversing them will result in fitment issues.

 

[Bottlefed83]

Sounds like he's got it now. I would add to the already good advice given that the motor mounts have a front and back too; reversing them will result in fitment issues.

The motor mounts should already be correct, because I took out the T-5 that fit perfect. So really this auto should go back in perfect. But of course that cant happen.

Thanks.

 

[Stangler]

Just remember, the larger hump in the crossmember should bo on the pass side.

Nate

 

[stock50LX]

The motor mounts should already be correct, because I took out the T-5 that fit perfect. So really this auto should go back in perfect. But of course that cant happen.

Thanks.

For my car (an '82), I had to slide the trans mount cross-member to the full forward position. The cross member can be purchased from Summit with sliding mounts for $59. My old trans mount had been moved too much already (ground and rewelded several times) so I had to buy a new one. I was running a T5 prior to the current C4. The C4 is shorter, so if you need to move your mounts backward, something else is wrong. Your car should be the same as mine.

 

[Bottlefed83]

Just remember, the larger hump in the crossmember should bo on the pass side.

Nate

Thanks that is kinda what I needed to know, because I was putting the large hump on the drivers side because with the mount all the way forward the big hump was on that side.

For my car (an '82), I had to slide the trans mount cross-member to the full forward position. The cross member can be purchased from Summit with sliding mounts for $59. My old trans mount had been moved too much already (ground and rewelded several times) so I had to buy a new one. I was running a T5 prior to the current C4. The C4 is shorter, so if you need to move your mounts backward, something else is wrong. Your car should be the same as mine.

Yea I do need it all they way forward, but how my crossmember is all the way forward the holes side to side are way off. So I just need to cut and reweld the ends so I can turn the crossmember around.

Thanks

 

[Bottlefed83]

Ok I screwed with the crossmember and did some cutting, but finally got it to bolt on. Now for the driveline. I have a aluminum motorsport driveline and the yoke is 5" long and half of it goes in the tranny. Is that enough?

 

[orangewhiner]

As long as it is all the way in, then you are fine. Even on some stockers you can see the splines ( it freaked me out when I saw it the 1st time).

 

[Bottlefed83]

Well it's not all the way in. It is half way in, so 2 1/2 " its in on a 5' yoke. But you cannot see any splines.

 

[MyFordsFly]

Steeda has a spacer that gives another half inch. Might check it out.

 

[Bottlefed83]

Steeda has a spacer that gives another half inch. Might check it out.

Ok cool I will have to do that.

Thanks