My nuts are stuck...

[BullittStangV8]

hey guys. I know its been a while since I've posted in the classic's forums, but my nuts are stuck and I need some help.:Zip2: The car is an 89, and I cannot get the two (left and right) upper control arms off because the nuts/bolts that go through the arm, and through the chassis are stuck solid. I've tried: 1) hand wrench 2) impact wrench 3) both of the previous with WD-40. 4) The past three options plus liquid wrench. Still nothing. not even a budge. The bolt which extends past the nut clearly is rusted pretty badly. I really need some advise on whats the next option. As of right now, the nuts/bolts are soaked in liquid wrench to sit over night. Again im sorry this is not classic specific, but you guys always give me good advice, and classics have stuck nuts as well.

Mike

 

[88gt]

I assume you are talking about the rear upper arms, since the '89 doesn't have front uppers from the factory...

See if you can find a "nut splitter"..a divorce or break-up from a long term girlfriend cannot be replaced for said "nut-splitter".

Check your local tool supplier/wholesaler, etc..

Jim

 

[coolblue65]

I remember reading an article the ATF is one of the best things for situations like this.

 

[1320stang]

Propane torch and wax

 

[Tony R]

I have heard of the wax and torch method as well.

 

[68EFIvert]

+1 for the torch and wax.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Propane torch and wax

+1 with caveat: might want to keep a fire extinguisher handy to put out the resulting WD40/Liquid Wrench Fire.

 

[NasaGT]

I've used a propane torch many many times to heat stuck bolts/nuts - but never heard of using wax with one. What is the wax for?

 

[jlangholzj]

Propane torch and wax

+1 Bingo.

also, in last ditch attempts, I have resorted to chisseling off the end.

If your really cagey, you can split the nut witht a chisel and save the bolt though. (like aforementioned nut-splitter)

 

[Tony R]

you are supposed to heat the nut up with a torch and place the wax on the threads near the nut and the wax is supposed to seep in to the threads to lubricate the nut.

 

[70vert]

what about PB B'laster? Whenever I need to bust a nut, I . . . oh wait . . . . seriously, though, this stuff hasn't failed on me yet. Use it like liquid wrench, but I believe it yields better results.

 

[raleighstang65]

+1 for PB Blaster. It's loosened up my nuts many a time! Seriously though the stuff works.

 

[runawayabc123]

I took two really rusted nuts off bolts for the IRS differential mount on a Thunderbird (the top main two to the frame). The solution, heat (not a crazy amount), a breaker bar, a long strong pipe on the breaker bar for leverage and two broken high strength bolts. I was able to replace them as they were bolts/nuts holding things together... I don't know that breaking the blots is much of an option to you though. Are the threads rusted away?

I second the PB blaster, but in my case... the nuts never moved despite many applications of solvents and I resorted to heat and force.

 

[mustangman1974]

how about leverage. get a 1/2 socket on that badboy use a 6 foot pipe and that 'll brake that nut loose.

 

[BullittStangV8]

well. I got my nuts off
A six foot pipe was not an option, as I'm doing this swap in my garage on jackstands by myself. I sadly had to cut my darn nuts off with a cut off wheel. I used the wheel with a small disk to cut a slit through the nut (and some bolt threads), sprayed on the liquid wrench, then went after it with a regular socket/wrench. It took a ton of effort. My impact wrench wouldn't even budge it. Once I got it to turn a half turn though, the wrench spun it off quickly. Overall, its about as much fun as getting kicked in the nuts...

 

[1320stang]

I always try the PB Blaster first, but if it doesn't work, I go propane torch and wax. That has NEVER not worked (knock on wood). I first used it on pulling 48 head studs out of my flathead. Didn't bust a one.

 

[Rusty67]

Just so you guys know, liquid wrench is FAR superior in performance to BP blaster. Kroil is better then liquid wrench and AFT + acetone is better still. Liquid wrench is the most affordable for its performance and the fact that it is premixed. Kroil is expensive and hard to find. AFT + acetone works the best but you gota pre mix it yourself and then store it.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Just so you guys know, liquid wrench is FAR superior in performance to BP blaster. Kroil is better then liquid wrench and AFT + acetone is better still. Liquid wrench is the most affordable for its performance and the fact that it is premixed. Kroil is expensive and hard to find. AFT + acetone works the best but you gota pre mix it yourself and then store it.

Here's a link to the Penetrating Oil Test thread a while back.

 

[bnickel]

i have had much, much better results with pb blaster than wd40 or liquid wrench, i've also used the torch and wax trick a few times as well, i had that fail on me for the first time ever a while back though. i was trying to get the idle mixture scews out of a 2100 carb i bought on ebay, they were stuck good. i was able to get one out with just the pb blaster but the other one wouldn't come out with anything, not even the torch and wax trick, it finally broke off and i tried to drill it and use a ez-out on it but even that didn't work, i ended having to get another carb but i used a bunch of the parts from that one since it was the right one for my application. eventually i'll put my muscle parts intake and a 4100 carb on it but i want to make sure it will run right as is before i start swapping parts

 

[01ragtop]

I have used Rust-Buster with good results, and even though not traditionally used for rusted bolts, Break-Free works nice. The USN uses Break-Free on their small arms, and I imagine their weapons see more salt water than the average guys. Just my $.02.