From what I can gather from the wiring diagrams I have amassed, the alternator is connected to the hot bus but it almost seems like it should be on the switched bus. Is this correct?
It's simpler to not run the charge cable through an ignition-hot distribution point. With the exception of a diode going bad, the regulator functions a bit like a relay anyhow.
I realize the theory behind the single-wire alternators is that the relay is automatically opened once the pulley begins to spin, but it almost seems like there would be some leakage in the circuit somewhere which would drain the battery a bit. But I've pretty well decided to just leave it on the hot battery bus as I originally intended.
I realize the theory behind the single-wire alternators is that the relay is automatically opened once the pulley begins to spin, but it almost seems like there would be some leakage in the circuit somewhere which would drain the battery a bit. But I've pretty well decided to just leave it on the hot battery bus as I originally intended.
The aforementioned diodes keep the battery from backflowing when the car is off.
I have no idea what you were wanting to do (I thought this was a theory thread). If you want to remove some wires, you can loop the stator circuit and connect the sense wire to the hot-lug on the 3G. Just be sure the charge cable remains in impeccable condition since you have basically removed the remote voltage-sensing function. You'll still have the OEM excite wire connected (labeled I on your regulator).
You could possibly conceive this as a theory thread since I have no Ford electronics to deal with. The question is simply how best to wire an alternator. Running a single wire from the alternator directly, in essence, to the battery is sufficient. I was trying to decide if that single wire should be switched or constant.
You could possibly conceive this as a theory thread since I have no Ford electronics to deal with. The question is simply how best to wire an alternator. Running a single wire from the alternator directly, in essence, to the battery is sufficient. I was trying to decide if that single wire should be switched or constant.
Gotcha. In that case I like your thinking - you dont want to start making unnecessary impediments to the flow of high current. The one time a switched mechanism might help is if a diode went south, but IMHO it's not worth reconfiguring a charge circuit for such a situation.
You could use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse or fusible links if you want a quick way to divorce the alternator from the battery.