4160 to 4150 conversion

jlangholzj

Mustang Master
Oct 23, 2006
248
31
93
MI
okay, so get out your summit catalogs!! :)

hly-34-13S--metering block kit

hly-116-3--ceneter hung floats

hly-34-501--fuel bowls

sum-G3100--fuel line

hly-108-83-2--fuel bowl gaskets

hly-20-105--float hangers

couple questions:

1) what size jets should i put in for the secondary block??

2)for a bunch of the small stuff, should i just get a rubuild kit and be better off? ie, the float needles/seats and all of that happy crap?

I'm sure that there's a few more things that I need to buy, so help me out!! :P


thanks!

-john
 
The question you need to ask is: why convert from 4160 to 4150? You won't gain anything you can feel. If you just want the center feed bowls, just do them alone. All you'll need is the bowls and fuel line.

actually the whole goal was to get the secondary metering block instead of the plate. then of course i need the bowls and the fuel line.


my concern was that if I did this, i would be missing some parts, ie the float valves and seats. Could I pull the parts out of the old bowls and use them?
 
The floats and needle/seats aren't interchangeable between bowl styles. You can do the 4150/4160 swap with the side hung bowls, all you'll need is the metering block and the longer fuel transfer tube. The fuel tube can be sourced from an old parts carb such as one from a truck motor. I used to have one somewhere, but not sure if I still do.
 
The floats and needle/seats aren't interchangeable between bowl styles. You can do the 4150/4160 swap with the side hung bowls, all you'll need is the metering block and the longer fuel transfer tube. The fuel tube can be sourced from an old parts carb such as one from a truck motor. I used to have one somewhere, but not sure if I still do.

if you had to choose, would you prefer a side or a center hung float? I've got my own idea, but you've been around a slight more than me! :D
 
I like the center hung bowls more. (they just look better to me)As for the difference in perfomance between the two? That's an answer you'll only find on a dyno. Or on a sustained high rpm engine that needs more fuel. I've converted a list 1850 600 for one motor (fuel bowl swap) using a 3310 list 750 carb for parts. These are cheap bought off ebay, you'll pay less doing it this way than buying the bowls new. Bought the 600 slightly used for $125, paid $50 for the 750, plus another $25 for a Holley quick kit. Holley used to make a 600 like so. They still offer a 650 outfitted like it. List 80783C. Summit sells it for $355.
 
I like the center hung bowls more. (they just look better to me)As for the difference in perfomance between the two? That's an answer you'll only find on a dyno. Or on a sustained high rpm engine that needs more fuel. I've converted a list 1850 600 for one motor (fuel bowl swap) using a 3310 list 750 carb for parts. These are cheap bought off ebay, you'll pay less doing it this way than buying the bowls new. Bought the 600 slightly used for $125, paid $50 for the 750, plus another $25 for a Holley quick kit. Holley used to make a 600 like so. They still offer a 650 outfitted like it. List 80783C. Summit sells it for $355.

yeah, after looking everyting over, I'm almost considering buying a used 4150 off of ebay and then putting in a rebuild kit if needed


so baisically, what you're saying is that side-hung float bowls should be good enough for my use? that would be great, cause then alot of the parts would transfer over! HORAY!
 
yeah, after looking everyting over, I'm almost considering buying a used 4150 off of ebay and then putting in a rebuild kit if needed


so baisically, what you're saying is that side-hung float bowls should be good enough for my use? that would be great, cause then alot of the parts would transfer over! HORAY!



you can also find carb rebuilders on ebay that sell already rebuilt holleys for about the same or less than what you'd pay to do the swap instead of buying a crappy used carb in unknown condition you could get an already rebuilt carb with a warranty
 
If you buy a used carb, limit your selection to only those that look obviously "little used" I've bought several like this and all ended up to be good buys, only needing at most a quick kit. The last one I bought was the 570SA I put on the Ranger, all I changed on it was the powervalve and accellerator pump diaphram. Paid $125 + shipping for it. Bought 2 600's and a 750 in like condition and paid $100-150 each for all.