Help me choose a 351 Windsor

hipobuzz

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Jul 22, 2007
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I'm up to my ears in a '67 fastback restoration. I want it to look stock (Bullitt Highland Green) but have more modern performance. I have done coilovers, heavy antiroll bars, 4-wheel discs and Torq-Thrusts, subframe connectors. I have just installed a clutch pedal and Modern Driveline cable linkage.
Now I am at the powerplant stage. I have been collecting parts: T-5 (Z), T-5 bellhousing, ceramic-coated Hedman "hedders," Edelbrock "Performer" intake, Edelbrock manual-choke 600 CFM carburetor, Trick Flow heads. I have decided on an Edelbrock "Performer-plus" cam (don't have yet).
What I am looking for is a car to drive on the street, that handles well and can scoot, but sounds like Lt. Bullit's 390 (I know that they dubbed in the sound of a full-tilt race car). I am planning a 351 Windsor but I am looking for advice on which one. (Deck height, early "strong" block, roller lifters, roller rockers ?)
I think I want Flowmasters but don't want to attract police or upset my neighbors. Has anyone done a electric (or cable) cut out valve that would divert the exhaust to a quieter (more restrictive) system when needed?
Thanks in advance,
Hipobuzz
 
Very nice, 10secgoal and I built one like the way your going. Stock dark green fastback, stock interior but with AJEracing power rack and coil overs for front suspension and 4 disc wilwood brakes. It was an auto car so we had the C4 built and added a gear vendor. engine was a 347 stroker and we went with hooker long tubes and a flowmasters. luckily he wanted it loud :D

If you plan on just do the 351 and no power adder later down the road then I would use a roller cam block, victor jr heads / roller rockers and your intake.... and get a bigger carb:nice:

I think the biggest issue with the noise is how old you are. Many of my customers that have load cars are the older ones that never seem get pulled over due to there age. The younger ones get fix it tickets.:shrug:

We did install 8" Resonators on a customers car that had 2 1/2" exhaust and flowmaster mufflers and it quieted it down a lot with out taking away from the flowmaster sound.
 
I went with a roller 351w block this time around. I've got a wiend stealth intake, early SBF iron heads from power heads and a Trick Flow stage 1 roller cam. Oh, with a carter/edelbrock 750cfm carb.

I got the short block CHEAP from Remanufactured Engines by City Motor Supply - Domestic and Import I think it was like 675 total.

Your 600cfm carb will work and honestly I kinda wish I'd kept the 625cfm carb I had instead of upgrading. I didn't try to build a fire breathing 351w this time around and that smaller carb would have worked a lot better for me.
 
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Thanks guys. I like the idea of a remanufactured short block. I already have the carburetor so I'll start with that. I'm an old fart (3 grandkids) so maybe I can get away with the Flowmaster set up.
Hipobuzz
 
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Thanks guys. I like the idea of a remanufactured short block. I already have the carburetor so I'll start with that. I'm an old fart (3 grandkids) so maybe I can get away with the Flowmaster set up.
Hipobuzz

Just because you can get away with a loud exhaust doesn't mean you will actually want one for very long:D I'd rather not think of myself as an old fart just yet (no grandkids) but I'm looking for something that's fairly quiet from idle to around 2500, then I don't care if it sounds like open headers. If I get that high in the rpm range, I'm not just cruisin' anymore.

As for the suggestions, the reman roller shortblock sounds like an outstanding deal. I don't care for the Edelbrock carbs, but then until recently I wasn't crazy about Holleys either. The Edelbrock/Carter design seems to have a problem when transitioning to the back barrels. If you decide it's not your cup of tea, try an Autolite 600. Incredible gas mileage, great throttle response, perfectly sized for a mild performance 351. Just my .02.
 
I don't know how strict the law is in your area, but cops seem so jaded by open-exhaust Harleys that even the loudest Flowmasters seem to go unnoticed by The Man. My wife has them on her '69 Corvette and they sound sooooo good. I think I'm gonna have to put some on my car this winter.
 
if it were me i'd go with a roller block and use a TFS cam to go with those TFS heads. the e'brock carb is a good dependable carb but you won't be able to wring out the last ounce of performance from one either, an autolite 4100 carb (1.12" venturi version flows about 600 cfm) is a good choice and i can give you some info i recently came across on how to modify one for even better performance.

first off you really need a 64 or earlier 4100 because they use standard holley jets then, basically, you just need to do a good rebuild on it. modifications will start with swapping the stock needle and seat assemblies for those from a carter AFB or edelbrock performer and you have a few choices there any of which are bigger and flow more than the stock autolite ones. next would be a holley vacuum secondary spring kit so you can adjust the secondary opening rate and a good selection of holley jets so you can jet the carb for you application...this is why i suggested the 64 or earlier version because jets are very hard to come by for the 65 and later 4100 because ford switched to their own jets which use an odd thread and only ford made them so jet kits are non existant, meaning you have to rob them from another ford carb or pay out the ying yang for them from pony carbs.


also i would use a hi-flo street fuel pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as well as an electric choke conversion but that's just what i would do.
 
Just because you can get away with a loud exhaust doesn't mean you will actually want one for very long:D I'd rather not think of myself as an old fart just yet (no grandkids) but I'm looking for something that's fairly quiet from idle to around 2500, then I don't care if it sounds like open headers. If I get that high in the rpm range, I'm not just cruisin' anymore.


Sounds like a perfect candidate for MagnaFlow instead of Flowmasters-

I love mine- quiet until about 3000 RPM- then VERY loud-
 
I'd run a late model roller block or early block with hyd roller cam and link bar lifters, twisted wedge or afr 185 heads, I'd go a little better than a cheap shortblock as you get what you pay for and you will end up with about 8.8-1 compression, you want 9.5-10.1 for better performance and economy and you want it balanced.

They are a little pricey but ford racing dual mode mufflers have a spring loaded trap door in them, they are quiet at idle and cruise but when you punch it the door opens and its like a straight pipe.

my vert http://htwheelz.smugmug.com
 
first off you really need a 64 or earlier 4100 because they use standard holley jets then, basically, you just need to do a good rebuild on it. modifications will start with swapping the stock needle and seat assemblies for those from a carter AFB or edelbrock performer and you have a few choices there any of which are bigger and flow more than the stock autolite ones.

That's great info bnickel. I guess both of my Autolites are pre '64 then because they take the regular Holley main jets. Another nice feature about the early 4100 is they have a metal pump arm instead of plastic, which can break and have some deflection.

Sounds like a perfect candidate for MagnaFlow instead of Flowmasters-

I DO have Magnaflows:rlaugh: They're way too loud at idle for my taste, they sound like open headers.
 
That's great info bnickel. I guess both of my Autolites are pre '64 then because they take the regular Holley main jets. Another nice feature about the early 4100 is they have a metal pump arm instead of plastic, which can break and have some deflection.



I DO have Magnaflows:rlaugh: They're way too loud at idle for my taste, they sound like open headers.



good luck finding a rebuild kit that has the right secondary diaphragm for the metal arm anymore. most kits now include the plastic arm to replace the metal arm with now. sometimes you can get lucky and find an old stock rebuild kit on ebay that has the correct diaphragm though
 
I'd run a late model roller block or early block with hyd roller cam and link bar lifters, twisted wedge or afr 185 heads, I'd go a little better than a cheap shortblock as you get what you pay for and you will end up with about 8.8-1 compression, you want 9.5-10.1 for better performance and economy and you want it balanced.

They are a little pricey but ford racing dual mode mufflers have a spring loaded trap door in them, they are quiet at idle and cruise but when you punch it the door opens and its like a straight pipe.

my vert htwheelz's photos- powered by SmugMug


htwheelz67, where can i get one of those dizzy caps? i'd like to have one for my car so i can run a stock durapspark dizzy and wires but still have a small cap for the look of an original engine bay
 
htwheelz67, where can i get one of those dizzy caps? i'd like to have one for my car so i can run a stock durapspark dizzy and wires but still have a small cap for the look of an original engine bay

If you're asking about the big post type cap, all the parts houses stock em. Standard/Blue Streak has the three piece set in one package: Cap, Cap adapter and rotor. These were used on the 5.0's in the early to mid 80's. I've got the same setup on both mine, it just barely clears the front carb and aircleaner on the 331 sixpack.
 
If you're asking about the big post type cap, all the parts houses stock em. Standard/Blue Streak has the three piece set in one package: Cap, Cap adapter and rotor. These were used on the 5.0's in the early to mid 80's. I've got the same setup on both mine, it just barely clears the front carb and aircleaner on the 331 sixpack.



nope, it's a small diameter cap with the male terminals, not a normal duraspark type cap