TAURUS FAN? OR MARK VII FAN?
- Thread starter LXFIVEOYEAH
- Start date
Bigger engine uses more gas is all. Plus I would bet the MarkII weighs more as well. Most v-6's will get better gas mileage than most V-8's.
If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car.
See Stangnet 3G alternator install sticky 3G Alternator Install: A How To - Mustang Forums at StangNet for a 130 amp alternator installtion tech note
Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.
The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. Now serving. Cost is about $110. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.
Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$90 See FAN-PWM. Ebay will have the controllers for the $70: do a google search and see what you find.
At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.
Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.
If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.
Note that the thermostat switch in the diagram isn’t really suited for the job. You’ll have to do a Google search and find your own.
This version of the fan controller will continue to run the fan after the ignition switch is turned off, just like most new cars.
To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.
If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is probably as good as the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.
Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.
See Stangnet 3G alternator install sticky 3G Alternator Install: A How To - Mustang Forums at StangNet for a 130 amp alternator installtion tech note
Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.
The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. Now serving. Cost is about $110. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.
Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$90 See FAN-PWM. Ebay will have the controllers for the $70: do a google search and see what you find.
At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.
Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.
If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.
Note that the thermostat switch in the diagram isn’t really suited for the job. You’ll have to do a Google search and find your own.
This version of the fan controller will continue to run the fan after the ignition switch is turned off, just like most new cars.
To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.
If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is probably as good as the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.
Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.
LiquidGT
Member
VII = Mustang clutch fan
VIII = Bad ass electric fan
Use the Mark VIII if you can make it fit, I couldnt get the VIII fan to fit so I had to "settle" for the 3.8 Taurus fan, which is more than adequate for me. I never heard anyone complain about cooling with the Taurus fan.
VIII = Bad ass electric fan
Use the Mark VIII if you can make it fit, I couldnt get the VIII fan to fit so I had to "settle" for the 3.8 Taurus fan, which is more than adequate for me. I never heard anyone complain about cooling with the Taurus fan.
Actually I have a 331 in my stang.........I have built a ton of 347's hence the reference in the user name. I use a Spal fan in conjunction with a double pass radiator. And by the way I am using a 200 amp alternator, something to do with twin electric fuel pumps, electric water pump, electric cooling fan, water/meth injection not to mention the high output ignition system and the juice required to operate the engine management system, among other things.
I gotta be the one to say it....try searching for this topic. I personally have made a good 5 threads about'em in various install methods. It typically comes down to space. If you can fit the Mark VIII (or in other words, if you have a stock radiator and you're not running a blower or anything else to take up extra space in the front of the engine) then use the Mark, but otherwise you'll probably have to run the Taurus. Both fans are fantastic but i personally like the shroud that the Mark fan has so i use that, and with a stock radiator, i've ran 3 back to back passes at the track running the fan after each pass and shutting it off durring the run and i've never seen temps over 190.
This answer makes no sense to me.
They both pull the same current (close anyway) but even if they didnt then and the Mark fan pulled double what the Taurus fan does its still not enough drag on the alt to cause a MPG loss 
You must of thought that he was asking about the car and not the fan mabey?
To the OP; there are ALOT of threads on this subject. The Mark VIII is the fan you want and they are plentiful on ebay. You will need a 3G alt as pointed out and again there are alot of threads on here about that, I think I even have one from 07. Again the alt can be found on eBay. I lucked out and got mine for $60 shipped but they are usually just around $100
As for trimming the shroud, i prefer a jigsaw....works even faster than a dremel. Also, even if you trim it down as far as possible, it's still too thick to use with a 3 core radiator. If you trim too much of the shroud off the blade will contact the radiator and rub a hole in it.
10-4 on the 3 core rad...I have a stock one and had plenty of room. I cut 3/8 of an inch off of mine...
Kelly
Wow thanks for all the info guys! i did end up buying a Mark vii fan off of ebay
the guy i bought mine from his username is mslistings he is out of Mo
he sold me a kit with all the switches,soliniods,relays and wiring for $100
it came a couple weeks ago and it is mint!!!
even the sticker!!
but yes it looks like it will have to be trimmed at least 3/4 of an inch....
waiting until it gets warm
thanks again guys!!!!!!!!!!!
the guy i bought mine from his username is mslistings he is out of Mo
he sold me a kit with all the switches,soliniods,relays and wiring for $100
it came a couple weeks ago and it is mint!!!
even the sticker!!
but yes it looks like it will have to be trimmed at least 3/4 of an inch....
waiting until it gets warm
thanks again guys!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow thanks for all the info guys! i did end up buying a Mark vii fan off of ebay
the guy i bought mine from his username is mslistings he is out of Mo
he sold me a kit with all the switches,soliniods,relays and wiring for $100
it came a couple weeks ago and it is mint!!!
even the sticker!!
but yes it looks like it will have to be trimmed at least 3/4 of an inch....
waiting until it gets warm
thanks again guys!!!!!!!!!!!
DO NOT trim that shroud 3/4 inch...you will ruin it and won't be able to use the fan. If you go that far (hell if you go 1/2 inch) the fan will hit the radiator. Even if you think you have clearance when installing it, keep in mind that when the fan turns on it has a LOT of pulling force and will literally pull itself into the radiator. My advice (and i've installed about 5 different Mark fans now) is to trim no more than 3/8 off the shroud. This has worked best for me. It does end up very close to the water pump pulley, but it should be just off to the driver's side of the center and it should clear just fine this way. Remember, you can always cut more off but you can't put it back on if you cut off too much.
Cobra912
Active Member
I have the ford motorsport 3 row rad with a blower...........can anyone tell me if a Taurus fan will clear???
JH96GT
Founding Member
The Mark VIII. I run that and do not have a 3G - BUT, I do run Baskins controller (DCC) which I love. Have had no current issues and the car cools great. Go with the larger if it will fit pending your mods.
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
3 core rad with advance auto 16" fan, wired on a relay with a manual override+ bigger 75 amp alt = 100deg. weather /pwnd..
It'll clear with a 3 core, but i can't say anything on the blower aspect because i've never dealt with one..sorry. I'd say if your pulleys stick out any further than a stock water pump does, probably not. It's really close on my buddy's car (he has a 3 core) but the fan can be offset to the side so the nose of the motor doesn't hit the pulley.
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