Safe to Drive? (supercharger question)

[Flghtmstr1]

So I've been working on installing my Tork Tech kit in my free time after work. It's almost installed, except that whoever packed the boxes at Tork Tech forgot to include the fuel pump and intercooler pump harness. Since this is my only car (I've been bumming rides off people to get around) and I'm using someone else's garage to work on my car, I'd like to get it on the road as soon as possible.

My question is: would it be safe to drive with the stock fuel pump and no (working) intercooler system until I can obtain those parts and get them installed? I would imagine that as long as I kept my foot out of the gas, it wouldn't be different from driving it around stock.

Any thoughts and/or comments are appreciated.

 

[Stark77]

I would wait for the parts and have it flatbed towed to your closest tuning shop. If you've installed the 42LB injectors and are using the stock fuel pump I could see some bad things coming from that. Do you have any pictures of your install? Nice purchase on the TT, seems like an excellent value!

 

[trinity_gt]

The KB setup has a bypass valve that can be set to "valet mode" with a small set-screw. This valve allows air to bypass the compressor so boost can't be made. Presumably the TT blower also has an external bypass valve; can it be set, using a screw or even a zip-tie, to bypass the compressor in the same way?

If so, just do that and you'll be safe.

 

[Flghtmstr1]

The KB setup has a bypass valve that can be set to "valet mode" with a small set-screw. This valve allows air to bypass the compressor so boost can't be made. Presumably the TT blower also has an external bypass valve; can it be set, using a screw or even a zip-tie, to bypass the compressor in the same way?

If so, just do that and you'll be safe.

That sounds like an excellent idea. I thought about the bypass valve a long time ago when I didn't know where / how I was going to tune it, but completely forgot about it when considering this problem. Thanks!

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

Thing is, you still have an intercooler sitting under the supercharger, with no fluid running through it or being exchanged I'm not sure what the effects will be.

 

[Flghtmstr1]

I guess it would be just like the non-intercooled kit. I don't think that would cause problems because the ECU knows the air charge temperature, and can adjust timing accordingly. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, though.

 

[trinity_gt]

I guess it would be just like the non-intercooled kit. I don't think that would cause problems because the ECU knows the air charge temperature, and can adjust timing accordingly. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, though.

The intercooler won't make any difference. Well, I suppose it might be seen as a bit of a restriction in the intake and soften the car up a bit N/A...

But because you wouldn't be compressing air, there's no heat to exchange so it not having coolant circulating won't hurt anything.

Just make sure your bypass valve Jerry-rigging is sturdy; you wouldn't want it to pop off and start boosting unexpectedly. Even though you'll have this in place, you should still drive as easily as possible and practical 'til you're all hooked up.

 

[02nightmaregt]

This is just me, but with something like that, i wouldn't drive it until everything that is supposed to installed is. I wouldn't want to risk hurting anything. So +1 on the flatbed thing if your friend wants your car out of his/her garage

 

[jprovence]

Unless you go WOT, you shouldn't be seeing any boost anyways. Just stay off the gas and it will run just fine. The Pulsewidth on the injecters are very small at little to no throttle. You are well within "normal" driving abilitys as far as your car goes.

 

[mat82284]

So I've been working on installing my Tork Tech kit in my free time after work. It's almost installed, except that whoever packed the boxes at Tork Tech forgot to include the fuel pump and intercooler pump harness. Since this is my only car (I've been bumming rides off people to get around) and I'm using someone else's garage to work on my car, I'd like to get it on the road as soon as possible.

My question is: would it be safe to drive with the stock fuel pump and no (working) intercooler system until I can obtain those parts and get them installed? I would imagine that as long as I kept my foot out of the gas, it wouldn't be different from driving it around stock.

Any thoughts and/or comments are appreciated.

I would say stop bumming rides and go pickup your car. As long as you stick with the stock tune, stock 19lb injectors, stock fuel pump, and stock maf your safe to drive your car. I had the same issue when i installed my saleen charger a while ago, I actually didnt have my water pump yet so i ran it without the waterpump/heatexchanger. I also didnt upgrade my fuel pump so i kept everything stock. When i got my fuel pump/waterpump installed I then drove the car to the tuners parking lot, and swapped out the maf and injectors and he pulled it into the shop for a tune.

If you stay out of boost you will be 100% fine, if its like the kenne bell kit like the other guy said just open the bypass, you can also call tork tech about this as well. If they dont have one just stay of the throttle, drive it like a granny would, stay away from WOT and you will be fine. I drove it for 2 weeks before i got it tuned as it was also my only car.

BTW there is barly anyone around with there kit, so please post up pictures as well as some dyno results to see if the hp they claim is really there. Also mention what dyno its on, mustang or dynojet. I like mustang dynos because it gives you the hp you would have if you were driving on the street, dynojet gets higher numbers from a cold car.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Unless you go WOT, you shouldn't be seeing any boost anyways. Just stay off the gas and it will run just fine. The Pulsewidth on the injecters are very small at little to no throttle. You are well within "normal" driving abilitys as far as your car goes.

Not true.....you can easily make boost on a Positive Displacement blown car without seeing WOT. A little spirited driving will probably get you 5-6psi right off the bat. Not only that, but if you’re easy on the throttle, you can see WOT without seeing any boost. It’s all about the pedal modulation.


I think I speak for everyone Flghtmstr1, when I say

 

[tag4car]

m112 bypass valve info http://forums.stangnet.com/767158-low-boost.html

 

[Flghtmstr1]

Thanks everyone for your advice. I am going to go get the car today, and drive it for a couple of days the way it is until I get the fuel pump and intercooler pump harness.

And don't worry, pictures are forthcoming!

 

[bakos24]

So.. how is this coming Flghtmstr1? are you finished installing it? How was the install? any thing extra you needed to get? sorry for the questions. I may be purchasing this kit within the next few months(if the wifey approves ) Just kinda want to know what to look forward to, if there are any surprises/headaches stuff like that. Thanks

 

[Flghtmstr1]

So.. how is this coming Flghtmstr1? are you finished installing it? How was the install? any thing extra you needed to get? sorry for the questions. I may be purchasing this kit within the next few months(if the wifey approves ) Just kinda want to know what to look forward to, if there are any surprises/headaches stuff like that. Thanks

I am not yet finished, unfortunately. School and work have made it difficult to find the time. I still need to install the fuel pump and finish up the intercooler plumbing.

The kit seems pretty complete. So far, I have had to purchase:

- A stock Motorcraft accessory drive belt (not necessary, but recommended)
- A stock upper radiator hose (ditto)
- Spark plugs (NGK TR6)
- New stock fuel filler grommet (for the fuel pump install; the old one is destroyed when disassembling the tank)
- New stock fuel basket gasket (is recommended to be replaced; I didn't want to risk fuel leaking onto the exhaust)
- New stock intake manifold gaskets (not required, but I did it for peace of mind)
- New stock crank pulley bolt (only because my car had piggyback-style underdrive pulleys on it which necessitated using a longer bolt)
- Wire for rewiring IAT and making a harness for the intercooler pump
- Zip ties
- Ford fuel line disconnect tool ($6 from Advance)

And that's about it. Most of that stuff is mentioned in the instructions, so I suggest reading over them several times before you actually start working on the car. Also, make sure you have a way to get to the parts store during the install. Inevitably, you will be missing some sort of tool or item. Also, expect it to take a lot longer than you anticipate. The instructions tend to make some things sound easy, when in reality, they are not. There are a lot of miscellaneous brackets in the engine bay that need to be "dealt with" in various ways that are not covered.

The installation instructions assume that access to tools won't be a problem. I mention this because there are some specific items that most people wouldn't have, like a torque wrench, ball-end Allen wrenches / keys / sockets, and fuel-line disconnect tool, as well as a full compliment of sockets and ratchets in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive, as well as a full range of wrenches.

Also, I should mention that this is not something you would want to do without a lift if possible, although I imagine it could be done. Replacing the crank pulley would be particularly difficult without a lift, as would mounting the heat exchanger.

With all that being said, if I can do it (and that has yet to be proven lol), anyone can. I am not a mechanic, and I have learned everything I know about cars while doing it.

 

[bakos24]

Cool, thanks man.

Where did you get the the new stock items from?Ford? Come to think of it, I have UD pulleys which will need to be removed. I wonder if I have the stock ones that were taken off

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Cool, thanks man.

Where did you get the the new stock items from?Ford? Come to think of it, I have UD pulleys which will need to be removed. I wonder if I have the stock ones that were taken off

All you'll probably really need is a new water pump pulley. The kit comes with a new factory Crank pulley as part of the package...and you can probably get away with using the u/d alt pulley.

One thing I often wondered if you could use Steeda under drive pulleys with the kit. It seems to me that the inner diameter of the steeda crank balancer might be large enough to accept the new blower lower pulley?

The piggyback style like the March and BBK won't work, because it still utilizes the stock lower and positions it on the outside of the two pulleys, but a balancer/under drive pulley combo like the ones used with Steeda might allow it. Then, not only will you be able to continue to minimize accessory loss, but you'll keep the slight fuel economy improvement as well.

If I ever get back on my feet and can afford one of these kits, you can be sure I'll try it.

 

[bakos24]

All you'll probably really need is a new water pump pulley. The kit comes with a new factory Crank pulley as part of the package...and you can probably get away with using the u/d alt pulley.

One thing I often wondered if you could use Steeda under drive pulleys with the kit. It seems to me that the inner diameter of the steeda crank balancer might be large enough to accept the new blower lower pulley?

The piggyback style like the March and BBK won't work, because it still utilizes the stock lower and positions it on the outside of the two pulleys, but a balancer/under drive pulley combo like the ones used with Steeda might allow it. Then, not only will you be able to continue to minimize accessory loss, but you'll keep the slight fuel economy improvement as well.

If I ever get back on my feet and can afford one of these kits, you can be sure I'll try it.

Thanks Brian, I didn't realize the kit came with a new crank pulley. I do have the BBK "piggyback" pulleys. Do you think I would have to change the ALT pulley alon with the water pump pulley, or would that be ok to use?
I am trying to figure out all the little extras I will need to get a final cost on everything before I make the purchase. If I recall, the crank pulley was the most exspensive so if one comes in the kit, even if I have to get the other two pulleys that were swapped when I put the BBK pulleys that should not be too much


and sorry to jack this thread Flghtmstr1

 

[Gearbanger 101]

You've probably got enough leeway with your factory tensioner to accept the larger under drive alt pulley. If worse comes to worse, you might have to pick up another stock pulley, but they're only all of a bout $20-30 if I'm not mistaken. Either that, or you could go with a slightly longer accessory belt...but that'll be more expensive than the pulley. You will however have to replace the water pump pulley. If I recall, the U/D water pump pulley is quite a bit larger than stock. Since the U/D crank pulley is smaller, there isn’t any interference issues….but with the stock one back on there…..they might make contact with one and other?

Here's the exerp from the last 5.0L Mustang and Super Fords issue the kit was installed in....

Shown next to the standard-issue 7-inch crank pulley, the new stock balancer comes with a milled face to assure it is perpendicular to the crank centerline. This was necessary as Ford's manufacturing process isn't accurate enough to mount the supercharger pulley without a visible wobble.

 

[bakos24]

Cool, thanks. When the time comes, I will probably just pick up a new alt pulley when I am getting the water pump pulley.

That was my biggest concern was about the pulleys with this whole install. Now I have that all straitened out, I think I am good to go.