so the race tech forum must be dead...

i posted this a few days ago in there and after a few views and no replies i figured i would try here :shrug:

so i took my car to the track a few times over the summer, and i have to say, i expected a lot more out of it.
my best i could get was a 9.10 @76 mph on the street tires which is a big gain over my first run of 9.6 @73 but still unexpectedly slow.
i would like to be in the mid 8s on street tires, is that unreasonable?? maybe im expecting too much?
specs about the car are in my sig,
also my calculator says its CR is @9.3:1
vac secondary carb
cam specs [email protected] .456 lift

im thinking swapping the VS for a mechanical carb
and going to a larger split pattern camshaft, (ie, voodoo or a comp XE)
may help my situation a little bit
any thoughts?

:SNSign:
 
thanks for the replies yea i figured that cam was a bottleneck, but the heads have good potential, the person i bought them from had them on a foxbody with a 331 and was running 10 with them, i just gotta figure out how to uncork them for my setup anyways.
plan on getting alot more seat time too, was able to shave .5 off with just practicing so...

so whats everyone else doin to get ready for the season?
 
They may be heavier, but that have a better wheel base. A friend of mine used to ruin the Chevy and Chrystler guys day in and day out at the circle tracks with his Cougar.
 
the cam needs help . . .

The rest of that stuff should make 250-260rwhp with a c4 depending on how well the heads were done.

Step up the cam (something like the 61002 voodoo), mill the heads some and let it ride out.

I went mid 8s (8.60s @ 80-81) with ported D0OE heads, a b-cam, a RPM airgap, a 670 street avenger and junk little 306 with stock crank/rods and some speedpro hypers.

One other thing, you probably need to put it on a dyno. You could it now, but if you are going to bump the compression a little and add a cam then you might want to wait.

On my car there was a casting mistake on the bottom of the rotor button that essentially locked out the timing that I would have never caught had I not strapped the car down at the local shop.

2 minutes with a sander roll and it picked up 15rwhp.
 
good to know, thanks,
well i decided to go with the XE268H after much decision, so im going to put it in at the shop this weekend, measure my clearances and hopefully ill have room to get some head milling done,
whats the most that can be removed?? .020, .030 something like that? and how much compression increase?
also read up on port matching, so im gonna do the intake while i have it off, gotta busy weekend ahead
 
If you have the F3ZE heads, the ones that came on the 93 Cobras were milled .030" already. May not be a bad idea to cc them first, just to see where you stand. Chances are pretty good thats not what you have, but better safe than sorry. Porting the intake is a good idea, but true to Ford tradition, its the exhaust that needs a lot of help. I would bowl blend up to about an inch past the short turn radius and port match the intake, then open up the whole exhaust port from bowl to exit.
 
yep, it was between that or the Lunati 61002 each was reccommended by their companies for my combo, and i decided to go with the comp as it has a little more duration and a little higher powerband and i have a comp cam now and its held up great, so i figured id stick with them.
have / do you run this cam?

the cam that will be going into my 289 is a comp cams retrofit roller cam with .480 lift and 260 advertised duration. it will have the 351w firing order as i originally chose it to go into a 351w.
 
good to know, thanks,
well i decided to go with the XE268H after much decision, so im going to put it in at the shop this weekend, measure my clearances and hopefully ill have room to get some head milling done,
whats the most that can be removed?? .020, .030 something like that? and how much compression increase?

You state in your sig that your GT40 heads are ported. Chances are they've been milled already too. The only way to know for sure is to cc em. They can be milled a total of .040 before you get into intake fitment issues. Go .060 and you'll at the least have to wallow the intake bolt holes to compensate for the head holes moving inward toward the centerline of the engine. Do NOT assume the intake sides & ends will need to be milled just because the heads were. In some cases, nothing needs to change in that regard. If you mill the heads, wait till you can bolt em down and then do a test fit with the intake to see if it needs to be milled as well. I milled a set of Canfield heads .060 and afterward the Vic Jr I was using needed to be milled, but later using these same heads on another build, the 3x2 intake I used then, needed no milling, only the bolt holes wallowed to fit. I've had one other engine (a 400M) that needed no intake milling either after a head and block deck mill.