too cold??

Hef5.0weisen

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Mar 5, 2004
574
4
28
NorthWest Florida
Its been pretty cold out here on the high plains of New Mexico last few days, highs in the low 20's....

Let me know what you think of this; thinking the t-stat is stuck open, temp gages never really rise up (stock and a-meter), heat never gets really hot. temp will increase/decrease with speed after running a while...

I can deal with that, however it breaks up ~3500 rpm, like hitting a rev limiter or the like....my thought is the ect is telling the 'puter to do that.

any thoughts??? may be warm enough tommorow to pull the thermostat out, boil it and see what happens, any other brainstorms???...didn't see anything relevant in a search
 
What is the AM gauge showing at it's hottest? How about while once you're warm but you've been on the highway for a bit (this generally shows you the lower opening threshold for the stat since it will be close almost as soon as it opens).

If you feel like it, pop the rad cap off on a cold motor and start it up. If coolant is flowing across the coil while the motor is cold, that would seem to support your theory.

Good luck.
 
Interesting topic. I am going to a 192* stock stat from a 180* bc my car never even reaches the "N." Especially not even in the winter unless in traffic or something. So is there a best thermostat ideal for colder conditions as well?
 
Interesting topic. I am going to a 192* stock stat from a 180* bc my car never even reaches the "N." Especially not even in the winter unless in traffic or something. So is there a best thermostat ideal for colder conditions as well?

The t-stat should limit the lower operating threshold. Mitigating factors are that some balanced stats don't seem to completely close, or the bypass holes allow too much flow. Or additional bypass holes can allow it to run cooler than desired.

Otherwise, it should not be a biggie (as long as the stat is not faulty). You could also shroud part of the radiator to help reduce the system's heat-rejection ability (semi-tractors do the same thing in the winter).
 
What is the AM gauge showing at it's hottest? How about while once you're warm but you've been on the highway for a bit (this generally shows you the lower opening threshold for the stat since it will be close almost as soon as it opens).

If you feel like it, pop the rad cap off on a cold motor and start it up. If coolant is flowing across the coil while the motor is cold, that would seem to support your theory.

Good luck.

Been out of town, hadn't messed with it to much...the AM gauge might get to 140/150, corresponding movement w/ the stocker gauge. Only drive 10 miles to work....cools off on the highway, but temp will rise as I sit inline to get through the gate. Did pop the cap, looked like water moving....

Any thoughts on the 'puter seeing these cool temps and invoking a rev limiter of sorts? If so, what sensor would send flags to the 'puter?(thought process being disconnect to t-shoot) Might try popping off the ect sensor plug...see what happens on the drive in tonight to go flying...
 
Been out of town, hadn't messed with it to much...the AM gauge might get to 140/150, corresponding movement w/ the stocker gauge. Only drive 10 miles to work....cools off on the highway, but temp will rise as I sit inline to get through the gate. Did pop the cap, looked like water moving....

Any thoughts on the 'puter seeing these cool temps and invoking a rev limiter of sorts? If so, what sensor would send flags to the 'puter?(thought process being disconnect to t-shoot) Might try popping off the ect sensor plug...see what happens on the drive in tonight to go flying...

There should be no limiter of any sort based upon temps.

It's more likely an ignition issue causing the break-up, or bad sensory input.

Ten minutes isn't enough driving to accurately tell what the t-stat is doing.
 
In my spin, by the time a person spends the effort and hours troubleshooting a t-stat, he/she should have just replaced the cheap little bugger. Of all the money-drains Mustang enthusiasts find, a $10-15 t-stat shouldn't become a dealbreaker. :p

If it were me, I'd just replace it, as it would be one less thing to worry about the next time hot weather and/or cooling system gremlins come around. At the least, if you continue to experience cooling issues, it's one less thing to chase down in the process of elimination. ;)
 
In my spin, by the time a person spends the effort and hours troubleshooting a t-stat, he/she should have just replaced the cheap little bugger. Of all the money-drains Mustang enthusiasts find, a $10-15 t-stat shouldn't become a dealbreaker. :p

If it were me, I'd just replace it, as it would be one less thing to worry about the next time hot weather and/or cooling system gremlins come around. At the least, if you continue to experience cooling issues, it's one less thing to chase down in the process of elimination. ;)

Always i dont mind throwing $50 at a problem on small things to eliminate them as an issue..