high milage 347s

Tanus

New Member
Dec 11, 2009
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hear alot negative talk about the 347s, wrist pin intersecting the oil rings, causing blow-by. Long stroke putting pressure on the cylinder walls causing premature wear.

so anybody have, or know of 347s with lots of miles on them?

notice more 331s on this site than 347s, so is the general consinsus that the extra 16ci's not worth it?
 
I was under the impression that it was only the early 347-stroker kits that intersected the wrist pin with the oil ring. The later kits were suposed to have cured that problem?

As for cylinder wall side load....yes, this is true, but exactly how many miles you're going to see out of an engine varies. Your driving habits will have a lot to do with things I would imagine.

In any case, don't count on getting the same kind of life span out of a 347 that you would the stock 302.
 
The pin through the oil ring has ZERO to do with any oil usage. If its using oil at that low mileage, it wasn't built right, something mechanically is wrong or it wasn't broken in properly.
 
Posted via Mobile Device hp typically comes at a price. I'd say no matter who builds an engine or what parts are used it'll never last as long as a factory 302. What you have to remember is how much fun it is while it lasts. Plus engines can be rebuilt so it's not the end of the world.
 
I was under the impression that it was only the early 347-stroker kits that intersected the wrist pin with the oil ring. The later kits were suposed to have cured that problem?

As for cylinder wall side load....yes, this is true, but exactly how many miles you're going to see out of an engine varies. Your driving habits will have a lot to do with things I would imagine.

In any case, don't count on getting the same kind of life span out of a 347 that you would the stock 302.

+1.......thats been fixed for years now.................but cylinder pressure is more with a 347 than 331 heres and old thread on the subject very informative
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/719569-302-stroker-information.html
 
wrist pins still intersect the oil ring land with a 5.4" rod. Some people report having no problems with their 347. If it's built right...
 
+1.......thats been fixed for years now.................but cylinder pressure is more with a 347 than 331 heres and old thread on the subject very informative
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/719569-302-stroker-information.html
great thread, I have a extra 5.0 block, dont know if I wanna go the 347 route or just go with the 351 stroked like 396. IDK. 306 I have now I built in like 02, and ran like 20 20lbs bottles of nos through, still runs strong but Id like a upgrade.

I can get a mexican 302 also, what are these worth? say with stock bore.
 
wrist pins still intersect the oil ring land with a 5.4" rod. Some people report having no problems with their 347. If it's built right...

Hey Chris.........................yeah i agree so many things have been changed to fix a non isuue for a well built engine, shorter rods different design pistons really i never saw a ford that didnt burn a little oil sooner or later. Theres some chevy strokers with the same oil ring wrist pin location problem ............u hardly ever hear about. I have more oil problems with my dam intake collecting oil i wish i new about the small baffle letting oil thru PCV into intake problem i wouda put a bigger baffle in..... problem comes and goes.
 
I was under the impression that it was only the early 347-stroker kits that intersected the wrist pin with the oil ring. The later kits were suposed to have cured that problem?

As for cylinder wall side load....yes, this is true, but exactly how many miles you're going to see out of an engine varies. Your driving habits will have a lot to do with things I would imagine.

In any case, don't count on getting the same kind of life span out of a 347 that you would the stock 302.
Probe, scat and other piston maufacturers have cured the side wall problem too, they all offset the rod mounting point in the piston to get it to where it have the same angle ratio that the stock stroke stuff has, only downside to that is, you need to clearance the block almost 1.5" to get the rods to keep from knocking
 
I built one 7 years ago that i used longer rods to lower the sidewall pressure, moving the wrist pin higher in the piston. I also moved the rings up on the piston (yes, custom pistons are expensive) putting them where i wanted them to keep the oil ring out of the wrist pin. Im not sure it is worth the expense there but since i was havingg them made anyway... The block clearance wasnt too bad although a bit more than normal. Also blockcreted the block and used a main girdle.

The motor now has 17000ish on it with no problems.
 
Hey Chris.........................yeah i agree so many things have been changed to fix a non isuue for a well built engine, shorter rods different design pistons really i never saw a ford that didnt burn a little oil sooner or later. Theres some chevy strokers with the same oil ring wrist pin location problem ............u hardly ever hear about. I have more oil problems with my dam intake collecting oil i wish i new about the small baffle letting oil thru PCV into intake problem i wouda put a bigger baffle in..... problem comes and goes.

89, have you thought about an oil seperator?
 
I have more oil problems with my dam intake collecting oil i wish i new about the small baffle letting oil thru PCV into intake problem i wouda put a bigger baffle in..... problem comes and goes.
I used to have the problem too, fixed it by using exhaust scavenging to suck out the pressure. works way better.exhaust smokes a little but no big deal.