2002 3.8 A/C clutch and Cooling Fan not working after fuel pump change

New to this. I recently had a shop replace my fuel pump after a bad tank of gas. I was a girl new to the area so I had no choice but to call anyone. Chose one with decent reviews. The repair seemed questionable as they told me they charged extra to take the whole tank out and was it out to be like brand new. I am a girl but not stupid. I could see they put something under it to hold it as they dropped the fuel module into the hole in the top. They just acted weird with three techs explaining it to me. Owner was a little bit of a jerk as well. Well they fixed the fuel as it started at the shop. As I left, I immeditately noted the A/C no longer worked. Fan on etc but not cooling. Also, the gauge for the cooling system stayed pegged at cold, never moved. The owner made me nervous so I was not about to go back in and say "you touched my fuel tank and my a/c does not work". My hubby had been a tech for over 30 years and I have heard the stories. However, he has had a stroke and cannot help me with this. I am not dumb about cars so I am doing what I can to figure out the problem before trying another shop, if needed, to fix the car. Now to the problem. 2002 mustang convertible, 2.8L V6 with automatic transmission.

Managed to get home and pop the hood. Car was running good now but the A/C clutch was no longer engaging, the cooling fan was not turning, the gauge inside was not working. A/C fan inside does blow fine but no cold air. This shop, I found out, actually just buys cars at auction to flip. I just had a bad feeling so I did not call back. I have a OBD2 scanner. The car has no codes, which did not surprise me. I did check a live feed but could not see anything obvious.

Question. Just say that someone just saw an older girl and wanted to create an A/C job that is an easy fix. Or, a tech that really was new to repairs and left a fuse out etc. I don't want to be a jerk because this is the first time I have ever felt that uncomfortable at a shop but it had to be towed and I did not know. Is there a fuse in particular that would easily be messed with that would create this set of problems and then easily repaired? Would a bad CCRM module cause this set of problems (maybe it was a coincidence). I have a fuse panel diagram and I am in the process of checking all of the fuses first. I was thinking bad CCRM module next. I know where it is and it is a pain to get to so I wanted to see if there was anything easier first that would cause this set of problems.

When the car originally broke down, I had just gotten gas. Made it about two miles and noted a miss. It got rapidly worse and I could tell cylinders were shutting down fast. Check engine flashing as it did. Babied it home and it died as I pulled in the driveway. I could start it with effort but ran horrible. I could hear the pump cycling a couple of times and then it quit completely

I have come to this thread several times in the past to help me understand repairs.... that is how I knew it was a fuel pump to begin with. I do thank you for that because it seemed like an engine and not a fuel issue. You also helped me diagnose another problem on my Ranger pickup. So, I am just asking what causes the three problems immediately and simultaneously? Fuse or control module. Help please!!
 
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They may not have done it on purpose but it sounds like they are imbeciles at best.

Post your city and state. Maybe somebody in here can recommend a good place where you won't get ripped off by idiots not qualified to stock shelves at Home Depot.
 
Oh, and feel free to post the name of the shop so we can point fingers and laugh at how these "professionals" can't troubleshoot and fix a fuel system on an SN95 Mustang. We'll probably give them a shout-out on our bookface page if it seems like they can't find a way to get their :poo: together. You can also point them to this thread if they are in need of technical assistance with the [hugely complicated] stock fuel system on an SN95.
I'm certain we can guide them through the repair of all the other things that they broke.
 
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I agree. I am not sure either. It all just was weird. I am 54 and it is the weirdest feeling in getting a car repaired I have ever had. I have never had this happen before and never have had a reason to question. May be a simple mistake.

I am just wanting what controls all three. I will probably check fuses and then if that does not fix it look at the CCRM. I know it is a pain but that is a very real possibility.

They may not have done it on purpose but it sounds like they are imbeciles at best.

Post your city and state. Maybe somebody in here can recommend a good place where you won't get ripped off by idiots not qualified to stock shelves at Home Depot.
all
They may not have done it on purpose but it sounds like they are imbeciles at best.

Post your city and state. Maybe somebody in here can recommend a good place where you won't get ripped off by idiots not qualified to stock shelves at Home Depot.
 
Thanks. It was J & W Auto in Live Oak, FL. Shady or incompetent I am not sure but very uncomfortable for a lady. Tech actually laughed and said the fuel pump change was the hardest he had ever done and that he only had 10 years experience. I just sighed.

On a good note. I had an alternator go out a month prior and used an awesome shop in Gainesville near the hospital my hubby was at. (City Auto Repair) but they are an hour and a half away hear the hospital. One of the best shops I have ever been to. Not cheap but well treated and repair was topnotch. If the stupid cooling fan was running I would drive it here for diagnosis and repair lol. If I had a way to get it there, I would trust them. I just need to get the cooling fan to run. Not caring about the A/C at the moment as it is a convertible and going into fall in North Florida. LOL
 
If you're not getting codes then you need to get it properly diagnosed. It sounds to me like there are electrical and/or mechanical issues at the moment.\

If these dudes were jerks they could have disabled the A/C in a number of ways to include venting refrigerant to atmosphere.

Of course, there are fuses etc. that can be pulled to disable portions of the fuel or A/C system but that's all the more reason to have it looked at.

If they are just incompetent well, similar issue can arise and without a personal method to diagnose these issues, you will need to rely upon a mechanic.

However, if you spent an time in the mechanical or electrical field and know how to use basic diagnostic tools like a trouble light and multi-meter, we can probably talk you through the largest part of it. The down-side is that this will require time since diagnostic steps have to back and forth.
 
Tech actually laughed and said the fuel pump change was the hardest he had ever done and that he only had 10 years experience.


Yep... he either crooked or an idiot. Drop the tank, change the pump, change the retaining ring, install a new filler donut and replace the hardware for the tank straps. 2 hours tops for a "qualified mechanic".

You're at least in the same state as @General karthief . He might be able to suggest a mechanic or know someone closer to you that can.
 
$649.00. $200.00 of it was to drop the tank and clean it spick and span the second time because they did not drain the fuel the first time. That was what I was told. Just sucks. Nuff said there. I just need to trouble shoot it.

Hubby was a tech for over 30 years and I grew up helping restore street rods etc. I have most of the tools and even specialty tools to diagnose since I have access to his shop tool box. He could help but the stroke caused aphasia so it has messed up his ability to assist me much. He can tell me the tool if I ask him but everything is now backwards to him.

If I could get the cooling fan to work, I would be happy.
 
Car was running good now but the A/C clutch was no longer engaging, the cooling fan was not turning, the gauge inside was not working. A/C fan inside does blow fine but no cold air. This shop, I found out, actually just buys cars at auction to flip. I just had a bad feeling so I did not call back. I have a OBD2 scanner. The car has no codes, which did not surprise me. I did check a live feed but could not see anything obvious.

You're going to need to test A/C pressure. This requires gauges.

Look at the clutch assembly and the connector and wires leading to it for anything broken or disconnected.

The cooling fan is only going to run if water temp is high enough make them come on. I'm assuming that the gauge you're referring to is your temperature gauge? That's not good. Are there any other indications also malfunctioning?

The following diagram is for a 98. Should be similar to yours. Use it to help check fuses. Look over the wiring in the engine bay and fans for anything broken or disconnected.

2009-12-17_163800_bjb.gif
 
Will do. It is the temp gauge, sorry I was not clear. I let the car run for a bit and the fan did not kick on but I will be sure to let it run a little without letting it get too hot just double check. I know we have AC guages so I will will check and go through the fuses in the morning. iI had not considered dumping refrigerant but I have that here as well :). You have given me a start. Thank you and thank you for the wiring diagram I had taken a pic of mine but this will help me a bunch. :)
 
I would not drive that car in the any state (much less Florida) without the cooling fans working.

Good luck... Hopefully over this weekend, folks much more familiar with your specific year and model will come along with more pointed troubleshooting steps.
 
Try this, turn key to on position, do not start, turn ac switch on, tap on the fan motor, sometimes they will start working, this does not fix it, but lets you know it has a bad spot in the armature (I think they still call them that) and needs to be replaced. did I understand that you check for power at fan? One of the wires is a ground and that needs to be checked too but I'm unsure how that is done, they have a test light at the shop that does both but they do not let me use anything more complicated than a broom and the phone. Sorry not much help there.
If one of the guys is at the shop today I will look into the alldata system to see if these three things are related.
I don't know anybody in your area and it's a ride from where I am
 
Go after the cooling fan first as it is most important. When you get to AC...check all the fuses in the system and make sure the low pressure switch is plugged into the harness...a couple of instances here where that was the only issue with AC and if these guys were really fly by night and wanted to make some business, an easy target. Some pictures here:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/a-c-low-pressure-switch-plug-replacement.705606/

If fuses are good and low pressure switch is plugged in, but no AC...try unplugging the low pressure switch and jumping the two terminals in the harness (with motor and AC on) to see if the AC clutch kick start in. That's all I have given you have a set of AC gauges. Happy hunting!
 
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Does anybody else find it an odd coincidence that the cooling fan AND the AC clutch both went out at the same time?

Here's something to consider. The cooling and and the AC clutch both SHARE ground G103.

Per my Ford Manual, ground G103 is located on the right front engine bay, radiator core support near the air filter.

If this were my car would start first with a visual inspection of the ground and wires leading to it. Look for the "green crusties" which is a sign of corrosion. Pull on the wires to make sure they are not rotten inside. If any doubt, clean the metal frame and eyelet. Sandpaper and di-electric grease are your friend. Then test with a test light that will "load" the circuit to confirm the ability of the ground to carry a current.

Then I would re-test the ground at the fan connector. Again using a test light to load the circuit. Remember that the fan is a very high current device.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

See:GIBBS' RULES

Rule 39 There is no such thing as coincidence.

http://www.ncisfanwiki.com/page/NCIS:+Gibbs'+Rules
 
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