I'm in need of some opinions...

Giggle juice. That'll leave a plenty left over for anything else you want: suspension, drag wheels/tires, etc. Could throw in some cams with the N2O and still be under budget if you left the suspension alone.

-or-

Save a little more and go for a blower.
 
N20 will be useless without a tire !
A blower will be useless without a tire !
Gears are damn near useless without a tire !

So first thing you should get is a sticky tire , anything after that is a bonus !

Thats what I'm getting with my tax cash :D I'm coming for you 12's :mad:
 
I'm telling you , useless without a sticky tire !

I don't agree. Drag radials help consistancy, but are not the end all. A good street tire will hook just about as well as a drag radial on the street. I've run through countless sets of drag radials on my 2v's(both nittos and bfgs, I now run MT's on my c5), and they really need to be heated. I've cut a few mid high 1.8's and tons on 1.90's in my 2v's on street tires in NA form. Bill Putnam cut 1.8-1.9's with his blown 4v on street tires. I've gone a best of 1.83 with my street tires in my c5, which is much harder to launch than a 2v.

Power adders do not require DR's or a sticky tire. They just make your car launch more consistantly, and allow you grip up if your track has poor prep. KB has the luxury of HRP, and HMP, both tracks prep very well.
 
....OR bank it and start a blower fund...

Deposit it in a separate savings account, forget about it for a year, then withdraw it with next year's refund and get a blower.

You probably can get a few bolt-ons and suspension stuff over the coming year to keep you satisfied until then. Little stuff like a shifter, subframe connectors, etc.

Then next year you'll be posting: "Man, that Kenne Bell ROCKS!!!"

:flag:
 
I don't agree. Drag radials help consistancy, but are not the end all. A good street tire will hook just about as well as a drag radial on the street. I've run through countless sets of drag radials on my 2v's(both nittos and bfgs, I now run MT's on my c5), and they really need to be heated. I've cut a few mid high 1.8's and tons on 1.90's in my 2v's on street tires in NA form. Bill Putnam cut 1.8-1.9's with his blown 4v on street tires. I've gone a best of 1.83 with my street tires in my c5, which is much harder to launch than a 2v.

Power adders do not require DR's or a sticky tire. They just make your car launch more consistantly, and allow you grip up if your track has poor prep. KB has the luxury of HRP, and HMP, both tracks prep very well.

Does that mean MT ET Street Radial IIs wont hook any better on the street than NT555Rs if they are not heated first?

I can't get traction on the street in 1st (2.97:1) with my 315/35/17 NT555Rs, 4.10 gears, and 411 rwtq. I was planning on getting the MTs to fix the problem... but maybe I just need 3.55s or 3.27s... :shrug:

edit: To the OP... I would forget about LTs until you get to at least 300 rwhp... maybe even 350. I couldn't feel much difference at all with them when I installed them before the blower (I was at about 300 rwhp). I'm sure they are helping me now, though. :) Also, forgot... I went from shorties to LTs.
 
Does that mean MT ET Street Radial IIs wont hook any better on the street than NT555Rs if they are not heated first?

I can't get traction on the street in 1st (2.97:1) with my 315/35/17 NT555Rs, 4.10 gears, and 411 rwtq. I was planning on getting the MTs to fix the problem... but maybe I just need 3.55s or 3.27s...


Your gearing is what is really hurting you on the street, especially at your power level. Also depends on the surface you are driving on. The MT's might peform a little better on the street that the Nittos and BFG's, they are little softer. But I still think a good street tire is the way to go, unless your car sees only a couple miles a week. I can break my 305/35/18 MT drag radials loose almost as quickly as I can my 295/35/18 Firestone Wide Ovals(best street tire I have owned, and they are not that expensive) when they are at 26-28psi.
 
I don't agree. Drag radials help consistancy, but are not the end all. A good street tire will hook just about as well as a drag radial on the street. I've run through countless sets of drag radials on my 2v's(both nittos and bfgs, I now run MT's on my c5), and they really need to be heated. I've cut a few mid high 1.8's and tons on 1.90's in my 2v's on street tires in NA form. Bill Putnam cut 1.8-1.9's with his blown 4v on street tires. I've gone a best of 1.83 with my street tires in my c5, which is much harder to launch than a 2v.

Power adders do not require DR's or a sticky tire. They just make your car launch more consistantly, and allow you grip up if your track has poor prep. KB has the luxury of HRP, and HMP, both tracks prep very well.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say good street tire but I guess I have had a better experience then you with DR's , because my 84 Monte with a 3000stall would incinerate the good street tires I had on it , but things got alot better when I got BFG D/R's , especially on the street . My 60 on a street tire was avg 2.0 , with the BFG's that came down to a best 1.76 and good for almost a 1/2 sec at the end of the 1/4 !

Running 1.8-1.9 with a blown 4V is still pretty crappy , I cut a best clawing 1.98 60' on a street tire with maybe half the HP:shrug:

Sticky tires helped alot for my in past cars , and I sure hope D/R help me with my Mustang's traction problems , still not sure what to get , I always ran BFG's but I may try Nittos this time !
 
Your gearing is what is really hurting you on the street, especially at your power level. Also depends on the surface you are driving on. The MT's might peform a little better on the street that the Nittos and BFG's, they are little softer. But I still think a good street tire is the way to go, unless your car sees only a couple miles a week. I can break my 305/35/18 MT drag radials loose almost as quickly as I can my 295/35/18 Firestone Wide Ovals(best street tire I have owned, and they are not that expensive) when they are at 26-28psi.

Yeah... I only drive it in the summer on nice days. Probably no more than 3k miles a year. I am having a really hard time choosing a gear to switch too. It's a lot of work and money just to find out that I still can't get traction with 3.55s, or that 3.27s are way too steep for a 2.97:1 1st gear...
 
Well, as we all know it's tax time again, and along with the money ive saved and my refund i should have abput 2500 dollars for my car..

what should i do?

What are your goals for the car? do you like to road race, auto cross, drag race, or just drive on the street?

That is a lot of money and it can take you pretty far down a path that might not lead to what your goals are.