thermostat
- Thread starter 93GtMustang50
- Start date
Since you're in Orlando and assuming you had a stock-rated stat in there already and liked the temps it ran at, I'd use a parts store 180* or a balanced 195*. Both will be a little cooler than the stock rated stat.
If you want more, then get a balanced 180*F stat.
If you want more, then get a balanced 180*F stat.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter 
I have had a 180 in for several years, but the next time Flush everything out I will be going back to the Stock 192.
twistedwankel
Member
+1
Running stock 195F in both 84 and 86 no issues in FL and do autocrossing in these cars. Stock motors and both AOD. My thoughts are that in other (turbo) cars I've owned the lower 180 temp got worse mileage but provided a richer mixture for the engine - also running the cars slightly cooler under full load racing.
The stat rating itself doesn't matter. What does matter is the actual operating temperature of the vehicle. A stock stat might not open fully till about 210*F, which doesn't leave a lot of fudge factor.
TwistedWankel, what kind of operating temps do you see while Auto-Xing?
TwistedWankel, what kind of operating temps do you see while Auto-Xing?
twistedwankel
Member
On a 90+ day (hot pavement 100+) and 50-60 second 1st-2nd gear course temp will rise max 1/16th scale for a couple minutes after two back to back re-runs. Car is always up to normal temp before I race. Normally a single run with 3-5 minutes between them has no effect at all. I can touch the radiator with my fingers and the liquid level is stabil. More concerned about keeping the AOD cool than the motor. I should mention both my motors are bone stock other than exhausts with NO power adders.
I know I should buy a "real temp gage" but never felt the need for extended track time as cannot afford the tires. Promise, some day I will buy Autometers as they look really cool.
This is not very "scientific" but I tried.
Put a Centigrade oven thermometer in the little bowl on the thermostat housing and filled it with water. Also checked the temp of the water pump housing.
So this "external" temp of housings was max of 60C which is x1.8 + 32 = 140F if my conversions work. No way of checking actual liquid temp. but knew the thermostat was open to make the hose hot, etc.
Nothing to be concerned about as my in car temp gage was reading "just a hair above straight up" idling. I could hold my fingers on the radiator metal housing and hoses for a couple of seconds with no issue but it was hot not leaving any skin. And my liquid level in the overflow was dead normal when cold and hot. My gage no longer "ever" reads above 1/16" past normal straight up since I replaced the thermostat in the right direction.
