I have a 333 built by rick, trick flow heads, cam, intake and msd distributor, 6al box and coil. Im finally getting around to finishing this 89 ive been working on for a year. Rick already had the motor at TDC i dropped the dizzy with the rotor towards the pass. side so when it was seated the rotor was pointing just a hair off center towards the driver side. Now i try to start wont start. I turn the dizzy CW and finally get it to start and idle around 700 after messing with it and unpluging the spout connector. I hit it with the timing light and the markings go as follows 10 l l l l TDC l l l l 10 l l l l 20 and on till like 60 and when hitting it with the light the 10 to the left of TDC was flashing off to the right of the pointer, so i turn the distributor CW as far as i can but its rubbing the fuel rail crossover and now the 10 left of TDC is a few degrees closer to the timing mark. Now this is where im screwed up, i have to go say 25 degrees to get closer to 14ish after TDC but if you use #1 plugs for a straight line its already pointing towards #8 cylinder and it doesnt look like ill have enough ajustment to keep going which makes me think im off a tooth from when i dropped my distributor in. Is it common for it to be that far out when i drop in the dizzy? I assumed dropping it in at TDC with the rotor pointing straight towards the back of the car would be "close" but at that point it wouldnt even run. And also I thought turning the dizzy CW was to retard the timing, but if thats the case why is it advancing and the idle smoothing out as i move it or am i just off to begin with? Sorry if none of this makes sense, im frustrated, basically am i off a tooth and if so when i pull the distributor and drop it again do i want to go a tooth CW towards driving side if im looking at the motor facing the rear, or do i want to go a tooth CCW towards the pass. side. Thanks for any help!!
new motor and distributor problem
- Thread starter 1slo5ohh
- Start date
when you drop the dizzy the rotor swhould be point about 11:00 looking at the engine from the front of the car.
you should start over and bring the #1 cylinder to tdc on the compression stroke by holding your finger over the spark plug hole and have someone bump the starter until you feel the pressure.
you should start over and bring the #1 cylinder to tdc on the compression stroke by holding your finger over the spark plug hole and have someone bump the starter until you feel the pressure.
Agreed. You likely didnt have it indexed on cylinder one when you were stabbing it. If you stab it at zero degrees and then set the cap on the dizzy at an angle so you can still see inside the cap, the rotor will be pointing at the edge of the cap's terminal for cylinder 1.
If you're off, the spark and injector timing are both out of time.
If you're off, the spark and injector timing are both out of time.
correct...once you're at tdc on the compression stroke you will need to drop the dizzy while m,aking sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire on the cap. this will be at approximatley 11:00.
off topic: how do you like the speed3? mine's a blast to drive.
took everything off and started over and its funny how quick and easy that thing fired up once everything was right lol.
yea i recognize the pic of your speed from the mazda forums lol. its fun to drive but im trading it in on a '11 Mustang GT. ive had the car 2 years its run great and surprised a ton of people gettin pulled by a wagon but i want another new car lol. i honestly dont understand how so many people blow the motors in the speeds i retune a couple times a year to keep everything in check and never had a problem being full bolt-on at 18-19 lbs for 2 years lol.
yea i recognize the pic of your speed from the mazda forums lol. its fun to drive but im trading it in on a '11 Mustang GT. ive had the car 2 years its run great and surprised a ton of people gettin pulled by a wagon but i want another new car lol. i honestly dont understand how so many people blow the motors in the speeds i retune a couple times a year to keep everything in check and never had a problem being full bolt-on at 18-19 lbs for 2 years lol.
So let me get this straight. Cuz I think I'm in the same boat you were in. When your one tooth off you have to competsate by turning the distributer towards the thermo housing? I tell people that I think I'm one tooth off and they say "it won't run if it's one tooth off" so am I right or ate "they" right? My tfi module is basically pointing in a straight line at 10 degrees.
yea i was off a tooth which meant the wires were rotated off one. it would take alot of cranking but it would finally start and idea and yea i was basically out of room to adjust just to try and get it running. i didnt think it would run either being off a tooth thats why i was so confused but once i redid everything and it was right it fired right up lol. but if i were you id start over.
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