Suspension Overhaul

[AFB]

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...93-Mustang-50L-Hardtop-Eibach-Pro-System-Plus

What do you guys think of this kit for the money? Seems like a decent price for the kit and would be a good start for my suspension project. I've used Eibach in the past and appreciated the quality of their product. I'll also be adding the following:

Upper and Lower CA
Torque Boxes
Sub frame connectors
Poly urethane bushing's throughout
Strut tower and rear tower braces

My goal: An enjoyable driving street car.

Thanks for your input

 

[Sharad]

Sounds like a good plan.

Whose control arms, torque box reinforcements, and sub frame connectors are you planning to use?

 

[AFB]

Not too picky on the boxes, just seems to be metal, and I'm going to weld them in. MM full length sub frame connectors and BBK upper and lower arms. I was considering the UPR Chrome Moly arms, for the price you can't beat it, however I like the 'boxed' design of the BBK arms and they seem to be quality for the value.

 

[wythors]

Word: "Poly urethane bushing's throughout" is going to be directly at odds with "My goal: An enjoyable driving street car." Depending on your tolerance for such things, the ride is going to be significantly harsher with urethane bushings replacing all the rubber. A good friend has a car with all urethane and you can literally feel every crack in the pavement.

 

[AFB]

Wythors, I appreciate your response. I realize the urethane bushings will provide a much harsher ride, my intention is to build an enjoyable/fun driving street car that is well rounded. To me brakes, steering and suspension are of the most important. I want to have the ability to aim the car the direction I want it to go and put it there. My car is a DD but my commute to work is short, and I enjoy every minute driving it. Eventually I will be seeking out a newer mustang but for now I want to build a solid car, and maybe dabble in some SCCA events on my days off.

 

[David Pepiton]

its not as bad a solid billet aluminum like I had on my Evo 8 all my motor mounts/ control arm bushings/ sway bar bushings were all billet aluminum. now granted thats much harsher then poly the ride sucked I was glad I only drove 3 miles to work or I would have killed myself.

the kit your looking at looks good I'm considering the UPR control arms and a SVE full length subframe connector

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...-Mustang-Full-Length-Bare-Subframe-Connectors

I personally will be running as many poly mounts as possible since and will be likely making my own torque box reinforcement setup.

you should also consider a bump steer kit

 

[AFB]

The good ol' Evo.. A buddie of mine is running solid billet mounts and bushings on is WRX... The car is a monster but talk about teeth rattling. I don't know how those guys do it.

 

[Noobz347]

Street driven car?

Either spherical (harsh ride) bushing in the upper control arms or rubber ones. Urethane bushings in the lowers combined with urethane in the uppers = 4 link bind potential. When you get it into that condition, it will hold a corner past what you'd have been able to hold with the stock bushings until.... it doesn't.

What I mean is that when you reach that threshold, it'll just let the rear end loose and it's non-recoverable (vs. stock bushings where you will feel handling fall off while you still have time to correct).

If it's primarily a drag strip car, disregard this post.

 

[AFB]

Noobz thanks for the input; it's definitely not, and wont be a drag strip car.. It sounds like rubber bushings in the control arms are most critical for controlling over-steer and I do like the sound of that, as much as I love over-steer, I like predicable and self induced over-steer What other components do you recommend rubber or would I be ok with my urethane kit. * Note: I have a complete energy suspension urethane kit sitting on a shelf in my garage.

 

[Sharad]

Not too picky on the boxes, just seems to be metal, and I'm going to weld them in. MM full length sub frame connectors and BBK upper and lower arms. I was considering the UPR Chrome Moly arms, for the price you can't beat it, however I like the 'boxed' design of the BBK arms and they seem to be quality for the value.

Keep in mind that tubular chrome-moly (UPR) is stronger than boxed mild steel. Also, Stangnet members get a 10% discount on UPR.

 

[David Pepiton]

The good ol' Evo.. A buddie of mine is running solid billet mounts and bushings on is WRX... The car is a monster but talk about teeth rattling. I don't know how those guys do it.

yeah i was in some ways releaved when i got rear ended but was still pissed considering i was basically driving a track car on the street. no carpet, rear seats, no sound deadener i couldnt even have my son in the car.

poly motor mounts and sway bar bushings might be all you really need.

 

[wythors]

Again, Word: Do a search both here and on Corral.net for UPR Quality before purchasing any of their products. It will be a very eye-opening experience.

 

[Noobz347]

Noobz thanks for the input; it's definitely not, and wont be a drag strip car.. It sounds like rubber bushings in the control arms are most critical for controlling over-steer and I do like the sound of that, as much as I love over-steer, I like predicable and self induced over-steer What other components do you recommend rubber or would I be ok with my urethane kit. * Note: I have a complete energy suspension urethane kit sitting on a shelf in my garage.

Were it me, I'd install the complete urethane kit minus the upper control arm bushings. Those I would replace with spherical bearings from either MM or Steeda or I would replace them with rubber bushings. MM offers a set of rubber bushings for the UCAs.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=514_21_99

You'll also notice that they have the installation tool.

If you're doing this to a Fox then you might consider replacing the UCAs all together with a set of these:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...=product_info&cPath=514_21_98&products_id=544

They're OEM UCAs that were used on the 97+ and are a bit more rigid than the Fox stock UCAs.

Also: Someone else mentioned in this thread about being wary of UPR LCAs. I'll echo that caution. If you plan to plant some serious torque either now or in the future, then you may want to spend a little more money on LCAs that have thicker walls.

 

[jetmech807]

I'm starting to gather susp parts for my 03 and have learned alot from Maximum Motorsports FAQ section. ALOT of good info on our suspensions.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G

 

[Rick 91GT]

Again, Word: Do a search both here and on Corral.net for UPR Quality before purchasing any of their products. It will be a very eye-opening experience.

Not to start a battle but...

I know you are not a fan of the UPR stuff and it's apparent since the same statement is brought up in every UPR thread, but have you ever personally had an issue with anything from them?

I know Im a dealer so my point of view will always look at as skewed BUT I would not be a dealer if the parts didnt work and they were not safe. have I seen those other threads yep...

I've never had a single issue and I personally still have some of the early model stuff, 10 years old! The material is high quality and they are welded in FL but a top notch weld/fab shop. I've actually cut some arms open to see what thickness the tubing was, as well as sonic test the thickness when my car was cert'd 25.5sfi.

Do I like the MM, and Steeda stuff, yeah great product I use them all!


To the OP, Personally if you are a real corner carver Id look into a 3 link set-up from Steeda.

 

[N8Dogg98]

I agree with most on here. I mainly drive my car on the street and plan on getting involved in some auto-x events and drag events with a local car club I'm in. I've never seen a forum member have an issue with a part made by MM. However, I have seen people who have had issues with parts made by other suspension companies. There's no need to name names, but I'll always buy MM components even if it means I need to save up longer to get them due to their stellar reputation. The fact that their parts are tough enough to withstand the rigors of daily driving AND track driving is very attractive to me. I also have nothing but excellent things to say about their customer service... it's some of the best in the automotive industry IMO.

I've had a pair of MM LCA's on my car for over 5 years now and they still look brand new and perform as designed. I also replaced my UCA's with the FRPP units Noobz referenced above and am very happy with how my car handles. It's not too harsh, despite having LCA's with poly on one end and spherical bushings on the other. Suspension components play a critical role in your safety and the safe handling of your vehicle... no reason to cheap out.

 

[Blown88GT]

...but have you ever personally had an issue with anything from them?

Only once. Bump Steer Kit. Could not even get close to proper alignment on 1 wheel only. Couldn't figure out why. Took 'em back, got refund.
I've had some issues with Steeda, too, but that was a long time ago, when they first started out.

 

[wythors]

Not to start a battle but...

I know you are not a fan of the UPR stuff and it's apparent since the same statement is brought up in every UPR thread, but have you ever personally had an issue with anything from them?

No sir. Nor will I ever give them a dime of my money. I was first introduced to UPR with the thread on Corral several years ago about them stealing the vacuum tree idea from a member there. I actually bought his last part in inventory and corresponded quite a bit with him. The underhanded way that they pulled that off thoroughly pissed me off. Since then, I have read thread after thread after thread detailing their poor quality and even worse customer support. I have seen the owner join in on threads in the Corral and make a complete ass of himself. UPR will bury themselves soon enough. I just don't like to see unsuspecting Mustang owners buy their ty k-members, crappy control arms or useless billet junk from them and then get stung when they try to return it. All you have to do is Google "upr quality" or "upr junk" or "upr customer service" and you get hundreds of hits. The information is out there. Buyer beware.

 

[Rick 91GT]

I know Spence.... I made a billet vac tree for my own car back in 2000 did I call everyone out nope...just missed the boat never really thought about marketing them and I liked Spences design , a little nicer then mine to be honest. Spence helped me set my car up and gave me a ton of insight on suspension when I was first starting to build my NMRA Drag Radial set-up. Hes a great guy, top notch fabricator, Ill stay out of that discussion. From a small business standpoint UPR has been great to deal with and I have found Jeremy very helpful with tuning and insight over the years. I have not had to expierence bad customer service, parts breakage or issues or I may have a different opinion.

I remember watching Chris Little go through the field at Bradenton, FL at over 100mph when he couldnt get his car stopped and none of his UPR front suspension broke, I think all he broke was as strut or strut mount...been a few years. Chris was hard on those parts all the time.

Like I said, I personally have not had any issues, and Ive had a k-member for over 9 years on a full weight street car. I know a lot of racers that run UPR, TEAM Z, Wolfe, Racecraft and Behind Bars with great success. I now a lot of them that have broken stuff as well...

FWIW- I have a UPR front set-up and all Team Z in the rear, Im a equal opportunity kinda guy Ive been to Daves (TEAM Z) shop and I will say he is one of the BEST FABRICATORS I personally know.

 

[AFB]

Well thanks everyone, I appreciate the insight and knowledge from all. As soon as I get all my parts in I'll be sure to post my progress and the components I ended up choosing.