5.0 Rebuild Cost Roughly
- Thread starter foxbody1989
- Start date
If i picked up the engine late model restoration offers for 999 what kinda of rwhp could i expect with a h/c/i onto it guessing maybe 330. And 400 seems great. Did you do the work yourself?
The LMR engine is great for a 300rwp or less rebuild. If you are shooting for more I would seriously make friends with your engine builder or contact Rick at RNH performance. My price was the machining of the block, rings and bearings. I assembled everything myself. I had another 300 into my heads. Long story short 700 for a gt40 build in my case with all final assembly being done myself, but that is the complete engine top to bottom .
If you are looking to save a little look for an older explorer/mountaineer 5.0. They rarely suffer the abuse that a mustang/tbird 5.0 would see and you can purchase a sub 75k mile engine for around 4-500. swap over all the fox specifics and you are good to go providing you upgrade the valve springs on the heads.
If you are looking to save a little look for an older explorer/mountaineer 5.0. They rarely suffer the abuse that a mustang/tbird 5.0 would see and you can purchase a sub 75k mile engine for around 4-500. swap over all the fox specifics and you are good to go providing you upgrade the valve springs on the heads.
on the junkyard explorer motor. Or hell, any running junkyard 5.0 should be cheap. I gave a buddy of mine an incon twin-turbo kit and a set of GT40X heads, and he threw them on a junkyard 5.0 and run 'em with ~400rwhp for 4-5 years before he sold the car. The motor he bought cost $50. Can't beat that, but if you wanna do a full rebuild, just get on summit and take a look at what the kits are selling for.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Now, let me say that I buy lots of parts through LMRS ( just bought another $500), but I wouldn't buy the LMRS budget shortblock, as IMO you can rebuild yours for about that price with better parts. One of the best engine builders I know said it better than me
http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1185904-budget-shortblock.html
IMO you're better off going to the JY and finding either a used Mustang or Explorer/Mountaineer motor. Just know if you do the explorer/mountaineer engine swap you will want to swap the valve springs, the cam, distributor, oil pan, and the mustang accessories.. You'll have a nice little motor for cheap.
What's wrong with your shortblock?
http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1185904-budget-shortblock.html
IMO you're better off going to the JY and finding either a used Mustang or Explorer/Mountaineer motor. Just know if you do the explorer/mountaineer engine swap you will want to swap the valve springs, the cam, distributor, oil pan, and the mustang accessories.. You'll have a nice little motor for cheap.
What's wrong with your shortblock?
With how cheaply you can get used 5.0's, if you DO decide to build the engine, you might as well stroke it or run a high compression set up. Those are the only 2 reasons I'd ever rebuild a 5.0.
I've gotten 2 GT40P motors, one was free and the other was 250 bucks. The free one went in my Bronco (still driving to this day) and the other ones block went in my car.
I've gotten 2 GT40P motors, one was free and the other was 250 bucks. The free one went in my Bronco (still driving to this day) and the other ones block went in my car.
Well i have light white smoke coming from the exhaust i know it needs a tune because its running rich as hell. But the guy before me sprayed nitrous a few times and just figured it should be gone through. Also leakingoil from the rear main seal. But also found out having twins on the way so now everything will be budget.
Does have afr heads, holley intake 70 mm tb with 70 mm maf with 24lb injectors and shorty headers and a 100 shot i never sprayed. But could running real rich cause white smoke?
No, running too rich would be black smoke, and burning too much oil would be blue.
Is it actually smoke, or does it dissipate after a few seconds? If smoke, that's probably coolant, and it indicated a bad head gasket which may be allowing some coolant into the combustion chamber. You would also tend to notice this because you would have to add coolant from time to time. If it's just condensation, which is a very normal byproduct from the exhaust, you don't have a problem.
Is it actually smoke, or does it dissipate after a few seconds? If smoke, that's probably coolant, and it indicated a bad head gasket which may be allowing some coolant into the combustion chamber. You would also tend to notice this because you would have to add coolant from time to time. If it's just condensation, which is a very normal byproduct from the exhaust, you don't have a problem.
mine blew white smoke right after i installed a turbo kit. It was running rich as hell. Once uploaded the custom tune, it went away
interesting... When mine was running rich at idle smoke was black and it would stain the back bumper and pipes with soot.
OP, I'd get it tuned up if you're not noticing any antifreeze/water consumption and see if the smoke/rich problems go away. And then worry about a rebuild/new engine. Definitely agree with a stroker kit if you're rebuilding your engine.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Are any of the spark plugs white washed from coolant? Any oil in the water or vice versa? Bubbles in the radiator? Do you need to fill the coolant often? If it's white smoke only upon startup or on cold/rainy days it may be just condensation. You can rent an exhaust gas tester for like $10 or so to measure the amount of exhaust gas in your coolant.
The rear main seal is a problem on like 90% of these motors. Changing it is a PITA. I did mine a few months ago and recommend you get the one with the teflon seal to ride on the crank as that will stop future leaks.
