Brake Pedal Travels Far But Then Works Good

[Dachipsta]

I measured the bore of the new master cylinder and then the mounting sleeve on the master and after subtracting the sleeve meas. from bore meas. I came up with 24mm. When I measured the distance that the new pushrod was sticking out of the new booster it was right at 24mm so that seems to be on point.

My next mission is going to replace the old hoses on front and back + install the new solid guide pins in the calipers. I think that may be where the rest of the slop is coming from.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Now that you have a functioning booster, does pumping the pedal bring it up higher?

 

[h2v7]

Now that you have a functioning booster, does pumping the pedal bring it up higher?

I keep forgetting to try this, km curious to see what happens

I fear i may have to replace a bunch of parts like dachipsta is doing to fix my problem becaus3 our stuff sounds identical

 

[Dachipsta]

The pedal does sit maybe a 1/2" higher than it did but not much. Now that I have gotten out an driven it, its gotten me to where I enjoy driving it again. The pedal has the proper amount of resistance now to engage the brake light switch and keep them on even with the slightest pressure applied to the pedal. There wasnt anything wrong with the master that was in there other than maybe it hadnt been properly bench bled. The new one I just put in, I bled the S***out of it on the vise. It took awhile to get all the bubbles out but I made sure this time that there wasnt one bit of air in that master before I put it on. Once I had the master installed is when I determined the booster was bad.......doh!.....lol. I was NOT gonna break loose those lines again and have to rebleed everything cuz I had already done all the too....haha. I just took loose the bolt that holds the bracket for the prop. valve and took the master and wire tied it to the suction line for the a/c at the compressor. Pulled the wiper motor and the booster came right out. I would say the worst part of the whole job was putting the brake light switch back on the brake pedal/booster rod. Also, have a couple long extentions extentions and a swivel adapter handy to take out the booster bolts under the dash on the firewall. There's no need to remove the master entirely.