Fox Brake Pedal

Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"
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Oct 10, 2001
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Western Mass
Early 1984 Mustang GT with power brake booster.
Put car into storage 2 years ago, brakes were fine. Just took it out and the brake pedal is really low. Both fluid reservoirs are full, and the brake booster is working okay. all the wheels appear to turn and stop properly. I'm thinking the master cylinder is about to go. Does this sound reasonable?
 
Could be, how long since you've flushed the fluid?
Last flush would be when I replaced everything in the rear brakes minus the lines, which was about 10 years ago. I ordered a new Raybestos MC from Rock Auto, which should be here Friday afternoon. If I get a chance to install it Saturday, I will bleed out all the old fluid front and rear.
 
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Early 1984 Mustang GT with power brake booster.
Put car into storage 2 years ago, brakes were fine. Just took it out and the brake pedal is really low. Both fluid reservoirs are full, and the brake booster is working okay. all the wheels appear to turn and stop properly. I'm thinking the master cylinder is about to go. Does this sound reasonable?
Most likely cause is one or more caliper slider pins are sticking/ frozen, causing you to press further down before the pads grab onto the rotor.

If you really want to isolate the low pedal you can do an isolation test. You block off all 4 brake hoses by using the proper tool or 4 vise grips applied gently enough to block the flow though each hose. Start the engine. With all 4 blocked, the pedal should be rock hard and no travel. Depress the pedal slowly and hold the pressure easily for a minute or two. If the pedal remains hard, the master cyl if perfect and not bypassing. If it looses pressure, change the M/C.
If good proceed to do the following, open one vise grip or clamp. Press the pedal, noting just how low the pedal goes. Close that clamp again and proceed to do all the other wheels, one at a time. Eventually, you will feel a difference when you come across the wheel with the problem. At that point, look further at the caliper, pins, pads. You will find your problem if you follow this isolation method.

Of course, if you have rear drum brakes, they could be wore or out of adjustment, wheel cyl ng, etc.

Remember, there is a big difference between a low pedal and a sinking pedal. Sinking indicates a pressure loss. Know which one you are looking for before you begin.

Gary
 
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Well, I went through and pinched off the brake lines, but did not really notice any difference.
But, when I went back and looked, the left front wheel is now locked up, so it looks like there is something going on with the caliper.
More to come on this one.
Edit: After getting it apart, I'm going to go ahead and order a left front caliper.
 
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The new caliper is in, but the car still has a low brake pedal. I did notice that while bleeding the caliper, the master cylinder was making all kinds of internal gurgling sounds I've never heard before, so plans are to replace it this coming week.
 
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Just as an update, I finally got around to working on this car again and did replace the L/F caliper and master cylinder. When I got the old MC out and on the workbench, I found it was plugged up with mud at the bottom of the bowl for the front brakes. The new Raybestos MC and caliper are installed, all wheels were flushed and bled, and the brakes are working great again.
 
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