Just Bought An 86' Gt *pics*

[Nickster914]

New member here. I just picked up a 1986 mustang gt for a fun summer car. The guy who i bought it from seemed legit and really cared for the car. He put a lot of work in the car and threw in a lot of tasteful mods. Heres the list...

New O.E Replacement parts that he replaced...
Alternator
Starter
New stainless steal Gas Tank with filler neck gasket
1987 EFI fuel sending unit and gasket
AC Delco spark plugs and 8mm Motorcraft Wires
MSD cap and rotor
Timing Cover (refurbished)
Ford Performance Timing Chain and cam gear and crank timing gear
Head Gaskets and new bolts
Valve Cover Gaskets
Upper and lower intake gaskets
Rear Springs O.E. stock ride height
Front springs O.E.
Front Left and Right flex brake lines
Front Tires: Bridgestone Insignia (directional and +1 size)
Front shocks: Senseatrack
Rear shocks: Senseatrack
Rear outer and inner axle seals
P.S. Rack and Pinion and hoses
New serp. belt.
New heater core
All new O2 sensors and wire pig tails

Aftermarket Performance Mods:

High Flow fuel pump from BBK
High output MSD Ignition coil and lead wire
Rear Ring Gear: new 8.8" 4:10 Gears with carbon fiber clutch packs and spacers (Posi)
Speedometer gear for 4:10 gears, [speedo still -10mph (slower)]
Rear Tires: Firehawk Indy 500 NEW
Rear Drag Control Arms (+1" Height) Southside machine
Ford Racing B303 Cam Hydraulic Roller Tappet 3300 5100 284° 0.480"
Distributor was advanced to +14 deg. For B-Cam
Smog Pump Delete performed
P.S Steering Pump relocated
A/C delete pulley and bracket
Converted to Mass Air flow
Converted to 1989 PCM
Cold Air Intake from BBK with cone filter
Heavy Duty T5 transmission with a forged input shaft, all new gears and spacers, heavy duty stainless steal synchromesh gears
Stage 3 power ram clutch good for 600hp/600ft lbs torque
Pro 5.0 Short Shifter and needed gaskets. W/Shift Knob
Steeda heavy duty sub frame connectors w/seat brackets, welded on(professionally)
Aluminum duel core radiator with twin 12" electric fans, programmable
All silicone coolant hoses and new high pressure worm clamps
BBK shorty headers 2.5"
BBK off road "h" pipe 2.5"
All stainless steel exhaust 2.5" h-pipe back

Here are some pics.








I love driving this car!! It sounds amazing. All i wanted was a V8 RWD car with a stick so thats why i bought it. These mustangs are a great bang for the buck.
I'm new to the fox body world so i don't really know much. Thats why i'm on here to learn.
The car drives really good and runs great. I do have a few issues though.

1. The brakes suck. It seems like these cars were just made that way. super squishy pedal.
2. MORE POWER!! Does anybody have a recommendation for heads that will work good with my set up? maybe larger injectors? basically whats the next step? It seems like there are a lot of good supporting mods already installed.
3. The "stinkbug" look. I don't know how he "added" 1"... the southside arms? Thinking about either cutting the stock rear springs(Ghetto) or buying aftermarkets. don't want to spend the money on coil overs.
4. WHEEL HOP!! This think hooks up good, but when it starts to slip its like theres an earthquake happening. I want to be able to lay rubber down the street without hop.
5. Its got a high speed vibration directly underneath the car, not a wheel bearing. seems like the driveshaft. Out of balance? pinion angle?
6. Theres no key... and the ignition is trashed from a screwdriver. Looking to buy another column with a key.
8. And of course, Body work... not too worried about it.

My main concerns are wheel hop, stinkbug look, and more power.
Any Input is greatly appreciated. What you would do, what you think, etc. Thanks!

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Try going down the hwy at the speed of your normal vibration level speed or higher and slip it into neutral and see if it still does it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

#1) bleed the brakes. If the pedal is that squishy there is either air in the lines or one of the calipers or wheel cylinders is not functioning correctly.

#3) looks like the rear tires are considerably taller than stock. OEM tire size is 225/60/15 so use tire calculatiors online to see how far you are off.

#4) are the quad shocks present? These help prevent wheel hop. Some guy incorrectly remove them when they install aftermarket control arms. You should try to keep them at all costs



Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

 

[A5literMan]

^^^ what Mustang5L5 said. Also not sure how he raised the rear 1" but my old car had southside bars and it didn't raise the rear. Those are a good traction aid but are extremely hard on the torque boxes(where they are attached to floor area). Also if you're looking for performance change to a better cam/heads/intake/pro m MAF matched to the appropriate sized injecters. Also get a fender well CAI instead of that open air element BBK pos. all you're doing is sucking in hot air from the engine compartment and they tend to cause idle issues from prop wash from the fan.

 

[mikestang63]

Maybe he used the car to clear cattle off the tracks?

 

[Nickster914]

Maybe he used the car to clear cattle off the tracks?

something like that haha

#4 The quad shocks were there but they were completely blown out. I replaced them with new monroes from oriellys. helped a ton! If anybody is having wheel hop issues id try replacing these first. Only $45 bucks for a set.

i'll try bleeding the brakes...

Does anybody have a recommendation on heads and intake? I know everything needs to work in harmony. Would i be ok with buying heads, intake, and injectors? or do i need some other supporting mods? how do i know what size injectors i need?

 

[Nickster914]

As far as the vibration goes... It has to do with speed, not rpm. Its pretty much only when its under a slight load. it starts to buzz around 50mph+ I can be cruising in 5th barely touching the gas and its buzzing, let off the gas (no load) no buzzing. So pushing in the clutch or shifting into neutral there is hardly any buzzing.