Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

#2,502
Bullitt347 said:
Was thinking of using one of these: DORMAN Electric Vacuum Pump 904-214
Seeing as how it is used to operate all vacuum accessories on a diesel, according to the description all of the following, P/S, P/B, CC, EGR, heater controls and 4x4 operation among others, I would think it would handle constant duty...:thinking:
Click to expand...


I would REALLY like to know how that works out. Please pass on whatever you find out! I could use something like that.
 
#2,503
I'd be curious to see if that has enough capacity to pull vacuum from a crankcase. The ports look tiny. It will also probably need a catch can before the inlet to prevent oil from getting inside and eventually killing it. I'll have to research it a little more and see if anyone has use one successfully.
 
#2,510
Then, why can't you just do what I origionally asked about a bagillion replies ago, and just t into the filter side of the compressor, and suck the fumes back into the engine? As long as the oil stays out of that line, all you're " ingesting" is some small percentage of crankcase vapor? Gotta be a way to " Mike-ro-engineer" something like that.
 
#2,511
@madmike1157 That is a solution that I like, but the only unknown is how much vacuum can that actually pull? With a setup like that you want your air filer to be MORE restrictive. I don't think any vacuum will be produced if the air filter flows too well. I have a big ass air filter with the open cone design on the end. Think about opening your mouth and putting a straw next to your lips. Pull in air as hard as you can with your mouth. Do you get any liquid through the straw? No. Seems like the same theory would apply to an open turbo inlet or high flowing air filter. What I need to do is tap a vacuum line off of the filter and run it to my boost gauge so I can measure any potential vacuum at different loads and RPMs.

In the meantime, I'm ditching my breather tank and installing a pair of engineered baffled tanks in the passenger fender. They will just have breathers on the outlets for now, but can easily be plumbed into the filter if that winds up being a feasible solution to getting some vacuum on the crankcase.
 
#2,512
RacEoHolic330 said:
@madmike1157 That is a solution that I like, but the only unknown is how much vacuum can that actually pull? With a setup like that you want your air filer to be MORE restrictive. I don't think any vacuum will be produced if the air filter flows too well. I have a big ass air filter with the open cone design on the end. Think about opening your mouth and putting a straw next to your lips. Pull in air as hard as you can with your mouth. Do you get any liquid through the straw? No. Seems like the same theory would apply to an open turbo inlet or high flowing air filter. What I need to do is tap a vacuum line off of the filter and run it to my boost gauge so I can measure any potential vacuum at different loads and RPMs.

In the meantime, I'm ditching my breather tank and installing a pair of engineered baffled tanks in the passenger fender. They will just have breathers on the outlets for now, but can easily be plumbed into the filter if that winds up being a feasible solution to getting some vacuum on the crankcase.
Click to expand...

How does that change the fact that vapor makes it past the filter? My -12 line has to travel 30" forward, then another 30" back before it gets to the breather tank.
My engine obviously brand new and unbroken in,....but mine still smokes like a chimney.
 
#2,513
madmike1157 said:
How does that change the fact that vapor makes it past the filter? My -12 line has to travel 30" forward, then another 30" back before it gets to the breather tank.
My engine obviously brand new and unbroken in,....but mine still smokes like a chimney.
Click to expand...
That's all assuming that a well-designed baffled breather tank is used to get the vapor to turn to liquid. Part of the reason why it's going in the fender to help cool the vapors. My current catch can is just letting those vapors float right out the top through the breather.
 
#2,516
So, although it has been a while since I've posted, I have actually been doing some work on the car. I installed a pair of engineered catch cans from Radium Engineering. They are very nice, and are the small size I needed. The UPR ones would do the trick too, but they were a bit too large for where I was planning on mounting them. I have them mounted in the passenger front fender to the bolts that hold on the front fender extension. I installed two bulkhead fittings behind the strut tower and ran the hoses from the valve covers to there. The other side of the bulkhead fittings have posh-lok fittings on there and the lines go from there to the catch cans. So far so good, I don't get the smell of oil vapor coming into the car anymore and I don't have any signs of puffing smoke.

At the same time, I decided to relocate the fuel pressure regulator into the same fender just behind the headlight. When I mounted the regulator (and the catch can) I didn't realize how hot that area of the engine bay gets, especially with the downpipe in that area. I feel better having the regulator in a cooler spot to help keep the fuel temps down. With moving the regulator, I also re-routed the return lines. They no longer 180 off the front of the rails to the back of the engine bay. They now come down the front of the block behind the power steering pump and then make their way behind the lower radiator support back to the regulator on the passenger side. More fuel line, but it's all in a cooler spot. The issues I had with the fuel getting too hot should all be solved now.

I didn't take any pictures when I was making all these changes, but I'll take some soon.

I also ordered an Alky Control methanol injection kit. Welll, I ordered part of the kit. I need to mount the pump and tank first and then send him the length of line I need. The kit is designed to be ran with straight M1 methanol. The original plan was to just run the car on 100 octane all the time, but I quickly realized how impractical and costly that really is. The Alky Control controller is probably the best on the market from what I have researched. All the lines are also steel braided. Once that's installed, I'll be off to the tuner again. I'm going to run the car on C16 first and take the turbo to its limit to see what the engine can do, then we will tune the meth injection on pump gas. I hope to be at the dyno in the next month.

Some other interior changes are on the way as well. Stay tuned for those.
 
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#2,518
@RacEoHolic330 I'm curious to know more about the alky injection system that you'll be using. What materials that the components are made of most specifically. As you know I've had the pleasure of using M1 this season and I have learned quite a bit about how finiky it can be. Just yesterday I pulled the injectors out of my motor to find them pretty well mangled from the M1, my 6 month old fuel rails.... oxidized heavily on the inside, fuel tank oxidized, orings... yeah, we almost had a fire on 2 occasions now from oring failure on the fuel system. Long story short I haven't found anything that the methanol doesn't eat with the exception of the drum in comes in hence my curiosity of the system you're installing. Methanol burns completely clear if you were to have a fire (this is dangerous...as if I needed to say this?). Anywho, if you need a sizable quantity of methanol I'm your guy lol. I've gone through 3 drums so far this year and have a pretty good supply line. Also curious to know if the methanol you'll be using uses a lube at all? There are a few options on when the drum the stuff. Either way I've been paying 180$ for a 54 gallon drum of M1, as long as the drum is sealed after each use it will remain good for a long period of time. Open containers of Methanol evaporate quickly and attract water.
 
#2,519
@84Ttop The tank holding the meth is a plastic vortech fuel cell style tank. All the lines are PTFE with brass fittings, both of which are impervious to methanol. The pump itself will require maintenance every couple years. 3 years if running straight meth, or 7 years if running a 50/50 mix. No lube is being added to the methanol. He does have rubber lines for those that need to make tight bends that can't be done with PTFE. Those lines are BUNA rubber, which is supposed to be compatible with methanol.

Thanks for the offer on the meth. If I start needing larger quantities, I'll definitely let you know. The place I get my 100 octane has medical grade M1 as well. Definitely won't be as cheap as you get it for, but having it down the road is definitely nice.
 
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#2,520
I'm am happy to hear that you looking into this far more than I did lol. I've learned the hard way how hard M1 has been on parts, exhibit A:
You can see here the M1 has oxidized the anodized aluminum quite a bit in only a few months of use.
20151001_114735_resized.webp
 
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