Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

Well any update from dyno day ??
It hasn't happened yet, unfortunately. Frank found himself in the sand trap last Sunday and messed up his back. He broke a valve and it blew off his intake bending his throttle linkage, which stuck the throttle open. He literally flew 50' into the trap.

240162a175198dfcfcf40db61a83b8db.webp


Hoping to reschedule sometime this week. My car and trailer have been at his shop since last Saturday. I'm not fond of it sitting anywhere except my garage!
 
Well any update from dyno day ??
It hasn't happened yet, unfortunately. Frank found himself in the sand trap last Sunday and messed up his back. He broke a valve and it blew off his intake bending his throttle linkage, which stuck the throttle open. He literally flew 50' into the trap.

240162a175198dfcfcf40db61a83b8db.webp


Hoping to reschedule sometime this week. My car and trailer have been at his shop since last Saturday. I'm not fond of it sitting anywhere except my garage!
 
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That's right I forgot about that I had seen that and didn't even put 2 and 2 together . Im glad to see he walked away from it .


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LOL! What's the fun in that? I probably be going through this tread again. Bought an IRS for my 92 cobra clone. Just want to ensure I have all the info necessary to complete the task the best way possible. I also luv how you polished that exhaust. Looks sweet!

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LOL! What's the fun in that? I probably be going through this tread again. Bought an IRS for my 92 cobra clone. Just want to ensure I have all the info necessary to complete the task the best way possible. I also luv how you polished that exhaust. Looks sweet!

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Advice: replace all the bushings first, it sucks taking it back apart later. I used poly bushing for everything in the rear cause it was much cheaper, did it myself in the garage. The FTBR kit Scott has is awesome but over twice as much and harder to install. Also take great care in swapping the pinion flange so you don't ruin seals or bearings... Might want to have help with that unless you know how to setup gears and some experience. Replace your fuel filter when the rear is out... When I installed my rear mounting brackets to the frame rails I drilled from the bottom up into trunk floor, then used a 1" hole saw to access the insides there and only bolted it to the frame instead of crushing the frame rail/trunk. I got my brake part/fitting part numbers from Scott, but I can share them with you if he can't find them. You'll need different wheels, no more than 9" wide and 6.75" BS. (+45 offset)
 
Thanks guys, I definitely plan to do the FTBR kit and replace all the bushings. I will definitely need those fitting sizes. I'm running 10.5 wide Saleens in the rear right now and would like to retain the same style wheel, but will require a different offset. So I'll drop down to a 9" wide wheel.
@bird_dog0347 did you only drill up through the bottom and not the sides?
I will have to reroute my entire fuel system as my A1000 is mounted on the fuel tank cover right by the rear end. Don't think it will be enough room with the irs installed.

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Thanks guys, I definitely plan to do the FTBR kit and replace all the bushings. I will definitely need those fitting sizes. I'm running 10.5 wide Saleens in the rear right now and would like to retain the same style wheel, but will require a different offset. So I'll drop down to a 9" wide wheel.
@bird_dog0347 did you only drill up through the bottom and not the sides?
I will have to reroute my entire fuel system as my A1000 is mounted on the fuel tank cover right by the rear end. Don't think it will be enough room with the irs installed.

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I have not yet found a saleen wheel in that size, and the 9" one usually has a max of like 30ish offset which isn't enough. I've been wanting to put the SVE drift wheels on mine, but they have the same issue. I'm going to see if I can get the 18x10 size and then have them narrowed 1" and correct the bs/offset all at the same time. If that doesn't work I do like @RacEoHolic330 and get some custom wheels.

This is the list that @RacEoHolic330 gave me back in 2012 for the fittings and it worked out great for me but I also didn't completely re-route my brake hard lines like he did so there's a little difference for us.
"Check out my build thread. I posted a few more pictures there. The connections are not done yet though. I forgot to get adapter fittings. Here are all the parts you'll need to make it work:

WH 1442 - M10x1.0 to 3/8-24 adapters (to connect hard lines to soft lines - two needed)
WH 702X3 - Three way 3/8-24 Tee fitting
BK 8131204 - 20" pre-fabbed 3/16" hard line with 3/8-24 fittings
BK 8131205 - 30" pre-fabbed 3/16" hard line with 3/8-24 fittings

The part numbers are from Napa. The adapters might be special order. My local Napa has to order them for me."

As for mounting the brackets I drilled the 3 holes per side that are necessary but I didn't weld in the supports like Scott did, I just opened the top (trunk floor) with the hole saw so I could get the washer and nut down in there and then tighten from the outside without crushing the rail as it only hold it to the one side of the rail so it can't crush it.

If you currently have your pump between the tank and the SRA, you'll VERY likely have to move it. And whatever you do, install the FTBR before putting in the IRS. Or at least mount up the subframe while it's empty before you reassemble it as it's MUCH easier that way.
 
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So, the dyno session was not all sunshine and rainbows. Car wouldn't make over 700hp, and a 5psi increase in boost would only yield a 20hp gain. There were signs of spark blowout so I did a plug change and gapped the NGK 10's at .022. Engine ran cleaner but the power wasn't there. The culprit was ultimately the clutch, which we were able to smell on the last few pulls. The sparkling dust in the air was also another sign it was done.

I'm not exactly sure why the clutch failed. I'll have to pull it out and see if oil got on it somehow or if something else went wrong. This is a twin disc from a place called Clutch Dynamics in Michigan. It's supposed to be comparable to a McLeod RST. I can only speculate at this point until I take it apart to see for sure.

The other issue we had was with fuel pressure. The pressure was dropping as the boost was increasing. My electronic regulator acts as the controller for the pump. It uses the fuel return rate to determine the required voltage at the pump. I disconnected the electronics from the regulator, which allows to pump to run at full voltage constantly. We made another pull and the pressure increased as it should. Something is up with the electronic regulator. I need to call Fuelab about that to see what the problem might be.

The good news is that the engine is running incredibly strong, and sounds like an absolute animal. There's at least 800hp there, but it's not getting to the tires thanks to the clutch. I guess once you start making these big power numbers, there is no weak link that is able to hide anymore. It's going to be a busy winter...

Here's a video of one of the pulls. Listen to the rpms varying slightly at the top end.


View: https://youtu.be/Vu7s-wrhQFs
 
Awesome pal. Sorry for the set backs but as we all no that's the name of the game . I'm glad the engine is strong though and running good


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