Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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I would be ok with those numbers. I haven't been on here much last few days(busy busy lol). There is definitely something afoot with that duty cycle numbers at that power level though. I like Noobz ideas on th situation. That car has to be a handful in the low rpm range on the street and 96mph in the 1/8th is pretty darn good! My nitrous setup used to pull those numbers and ran out the back to 12.30's at 117mph(that was 150 pills-around 375hp)
Dumb question (what's new right.)
Is the blower maxed out?
I think I read in here before it was close,but not sure lol.
Is the blower maxed out?
I think I read in here before it was close,but not sure lol.
As would I. I have no clue what to expect from the Monster,..but having had the LS-1 GTO's, and driving certain BMW's and knowing what 400 ft lbs of tq feels like.....380 RWTQ makes for a pretty damn fun car.
I know there is more in it, I just need to fix what's wrong with it first. Then I'll take it down there and rent the dyno for an hour and tune until I find the sweet spot.
For those of you that have seen dyno graphs before.... what's the deal with mine peaking so early? Anything I can do about that short of a cam change?
I wonder if over spinning the blower causes too much heat or even more parasitic loss?
The HP number seems low for gt40's , cam and intakr, but the TQ numbers tell the story, along with the 96 mph trap speed. My car traps 92 mph in the 1/8 running 7.5X's, and finishes in the 1/4 at 11.8X's. I think you should be happy and proud!
Joe
The HP number seems low for gt40's , cam and intakr, but the TQ numbers tell the story, along with the 96 mph trap speed. My car traps 92 mph in the 1/8 running 7.5X's, and finishes in the 1/4 at 11.8X's. I think you should be happy and proud!
Joe
Usually the e cam maxes at around 5500. What valve springs are you running? You could try retarding the cam a couple degrees. Looking at your graph again I think Noobz idea of boosting the fuel pump and ignition might clean it up a little up top. With the blower spinning so hard and creating heat you're loosing a little up there also(which you already know). A cam change may help a little but I don't think that's going to change the powerband significantly and wouldn't justify the time/effort/expense to change.
If he's only seeing 6 psi at redline with 9 psi max, I'd doubt it's a charge temp issue. Sounds to me like the blower is undersized,
I don know nothin' about blowers.
But what makes sense to me is that is the blower makes 9+P.S.I. at 2500 RPM, and 2/3rds that at where you'd typically see the most power,..you're clearly spinning that blower way too hard.
On your dyno chart, peak power occurs just after 4k RPM,...The blower, and your combination are working really well as long as the blower is within it's efficiency range.
Spinning the p iss outta the blower is still gonna be spinning the p iss outta the blower, regardless of what cam you change to, what injector you change to. I'll bet that the car would go even faster if you short shifted the thing at 4500 RPM, and geared it to stay in that torque band.
A 4500-5500 RPM shift point is perfect for a street car. especially since its making 400 ft lbs of tq there.
I think the only thing that will change anything for you is to increase the pulley diameter and slow that thing down to where it stays at max RPM at redline instead of overspinning to 30+%
But what makes sense to me is that is the blower makes 9+P.S.I. at 2500 RPM, and 2/3rds that at where you'd typically see the most power,..you're clearly spinning that blower way too hard.
On your dyno chart, peak power occurs just after 4k RPM,...The blower, and your combination are working really well as long as the blower is within it's efficiency range.
Spinning the p iss outta the blower is still gonna be spinning the p iss outta the blower, regardless of what cam you change to, what injector you change to. I'll bet that the car would go even faster if you short shifted the thing at 4500 RPM, and geared it to stay in that torque band.
A 4500-5500 RPM shift point is perfect for a street car. especially since its making 400 ft lbs of tq there.
I think the only thing that will change anything for you is to increase the pulley diameter and slow that thing down to where it stays at max RPM at redline instead of overspinning to 30+%
Might be a good idea to consider having the M90 ported to get that efficiency rating up a little? The M90's are great little torque makers, but they do get hot. My last Allen kit used an "S Ported" Gen III M90 that I was over spinning to the tune of 9-10psi on a basically stock 4.6 PI engine and even through a 4R70W and IRS rear end it managed to put out 343RWHP/389RWT on a Mustang Dyno.
Now....granted, it was sporting an air to water intercooler, but the system wasn't very efficient. I was still seeing 210-220 degree ACT's by the end of the track.
What are your ACT's?
Now....granted, it was sporting an air to water intercooler, but the system wasn't very efficient. I was still seeing 210-220 degree ACT's by the end of the track.
What are your ACT's?
Not a blower expert, but I would think that spinning the blower that hard would produce the heat, not the psi. Psi is dependent on restrictions. I'm sure it could add some heat, but I think the mechanical friction would cause more.
Just thinking out loud.
Joe
Yep, me too. I'm sure there is some degree of heat generated. Would be cool to see an IAT datalog, I'm sure he has one.
bottom chart has DUTY CYCLE, CLT, MAT (iat)
From this you can see the car was up too operating temp (red line bottom chart)
The MAT (iat) started at 100* by the top of 4th 130*
From testing the SC will make 12psi non-intercooled! But iat is up at 220*
Not sure about the springs.... the machine shop put them in but I believe they are comp's they pick them specifically for the build and a 7000 RPM shift the bottom and put together for a 7000 RPM shift as well but once I put the supercharger on there it really drug the powerband down
If you check back earlier in the thread I did Port the blower myself it's not nearly as nice as one of those s ported blowers but I did notice a difference in the amount of pressure it generated...
I believe I'm running a 1.9 inch pulley now I have some other size pulleys but I didn't see more than 5 PSI with a larger one however it would be interesting to take it with me and swap it out on the dyno and see what happens
How many lbs of boost were you making with that 1.9" pulley? I guarantee you're slipping that belt.
I had a 2.35" 8-rib on mine and without a little VHT on the belt, or pulley itself, it would slip like crazy
If you're seeing 130-degree's at the top of your pull, that ain't
.
I think the problem you're having at this point, is that you either aren't spinning the blower fast enough, or you're slipping your current set up.
I would seriously consider running the blower on a separate accessory drive (if you aren't already) and run a larger crank pulley, instead of that tiny blower pulley. Vortech makes a nice 8" crank set up that'll get that blower moving and allow you to step up to a blower pulley with a little more surface area to it.
I had a 2.35" 8-rib on mine and without a little VHT on the belt, or pulley itself, it would slip like crazy
If you're seeing 130-degree's at the top of your pull, that ain't
.I think the problem you're having at this point, is that you either aren't spinning the blower fast enough, or you're slipping your current set up.
I would seriously consider running the blower on a separate accessory drive (if you aren't already) and run a larger crank pulley, instead of that tiny blower pulley. Vortech makes a nice 8" crank set up that'll get that blower moving and allow you to step up to a blower pulley with a little more surface area to it.
I would be forced to remake every bracket on the setup to do that, including a different radiator/fan setup... here is a pic of the front dress.
I do get quite a bit of belt burn showing up under the hood. (Slippage would explain the weirdness on the data log)