This Clutch Cable With Stock Quadrant?

Just install all the parts in the kit, they are designed to work as a team, most on here will agree that the stock quadrant needs to go anyway and ya got the parts, just don't be me and read the instructions before you start.
 
Stock setup is not self adjusting, since you must pull on the pedal manually. And once those three baby teeth on the quadrant paw wear out, which they probably have by now, you'll be up the sh!t creek without a paddle.

Do it right..
Step 1- Remove all the stock quadrant and related parts.
Step 2- Carefully place them in the trash can.
Step 3- Proceed to replace with aluminum quadrant, a Ford non adjustable cable and a fwa.
Step - 4 - Enjoy !
 
So there's no benefit to keeping it?
Only if you need something to take up space in your shop area.

The firewall adjuster requires the use of either an adjustable cable or a special quadrant.

Using some aftermarket quadrants with the stock cable and a firewall adjuster doesn't work - at least it doesn't with a old, single hook Ford racing quadrant. I found that out the hard way...
 
Ok, so would it be fairly easy to replace the quadrant or do I need to disconnect the cable from the clutch fork first?

First time I'm doing this so I have no idea.
 
I think you can unhook the little ajuster under the dash by pulling up on the peddle and pushing the adjuster back to undo the adjustment, but not sure, I took a long bar and was able to unhook the cable at the bellhousing by pushing the lever forward, probably backwards from what your supposed to do but it worked.
Use the parts in the kit per instructions and put the cover back on the bellhousing.
 
Ok, so would it be fairly easy to replace the quadrant or do I need to disconnect the cable from the clutch fork first?

First time I'm doing this so I have no idea.
Disconnect the cable at the clutch arm first.. This will require some prying and strong arms, or maybe you can use your feet...A suitable pry bar or lever will be needed.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.


Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt
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The new cable is already installed so what you're saying is I would still have to get under the car and remove the cable from the clutch fork to do this?

Sorry I'm not sure where it's connected to the bell housing... thought it was just routed to the dust cover and then connected to the fork.
 
You can disco it at the bell housing or the peddle bell housing is easier
You have to pull the peddle up and release the adjuster
You push the adjuster forward I think
Its a pain. Some people like me would pull the seat out for more room
I'm over six foot and getting old.
Sorry, the clutch fork is under the cover, that is correct
 
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