Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

[Davedacarpainter]

Thanks for the info. I have been looking on eBay for some reference photos of the pieces people have on there. It looks like most people just cut it out with a wheel. I assume they are doing this because it takes less time than drilling out all the welds. It also looks like they cut near the windshield. Are the welds under the windshield? I don't mind drilling because it would have to be done anyway.

Yeah, right along the seam underneath the windshield. It's really no big deal doing it the right way. I would even say it's easy.

It's harder to go back and seam stitch when cutting of the panel with a cut off wheel.

 

[5.0 Nostalgia]

Thanks. Yanked the windshield out and pulled the urethane off without much trouble. It was cold and the windshield cracked, but I didn't need it and there were already cracks.

 

[billison]

Gonna try to block the current paint on my car. What grit do you suggest?

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Gonna try to block the current paint on my car. What grit do you suggest?

if you intend to primer it after the blocking use 180. If not, 320.

 

[billison]

Yeah, my plan is to block out the current paint first, as long as no problems arise, I'll hit it with a primer or sealer, block with a higher grit and go.

Would it hurt it hit it with a da first? Figure that'll show if anything is gonna flake

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Yeah, my plan is to block out the current paint first, as long as no problems arise, I'll hit it with a primer or sealer, block with a higher grit and go.

Would it hurt it hit it with a da first? Figure that'll show if anything is gonna flake

I would go ahead and block it first. Are there areas you're worried about flaking off?

When you block shiny paint, it's easy to see the areas that need further work.

You're going back to the original color though, right? Is any of the white paint peeling? I wonder how thorough of a prep job the previous painter did prior to spraying the white?

 

[billison]

I would go ahead and block it first. Are there areas you're worried about flaking off?

When you block shiny paint, it's easy to see the areas that need further work.

You're going back to the original color though, right? Is any of the white paint peeling? I wonder how thorough of a prep job the previous painter did prior to spraying the white?

In the wheels wells ,

 

[Davedacarpainter]

In the wheels wells ,

He sprayed the wheel wells?

I wouldn't be overly worried about it. You're going black, right?

Grab a rattle can of black and spray over it.

If you want to go for a glory fix, take the wheels out, get a knotted wire wheel and grind off the undercoating and respray with a sprayable seam sealer. Bit of a pain in the ass there.

Rattle can of black paint is my easiest suggestion.

 

[billison]

He sprayed the wheel wells?

I wouldn't be overly worried about it. You're going black, right?

Grab a rattle can of black and spray over it.

If you want to go for a glory fix, take the wheels out, get a knotted wire wheel and grind off the undercoating and respray with a sprayable seam sealer. Bit of a pain in the ass there.

Rattle can of black paint is my easiest suggestion.

Sorry, I misspoke. Like, the fender lips. Looks like they didn't get in there and really sand.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Sorry, I misspoke. Like, the fender lips. Looks like they didn't get in there and really sand.

Ah, in that case you'll want to feather those areas out with a DA until it no longer chips or peals before primering it. If you don't, the primer will cause that area to lift.

 

[1200gt]

Hey all, I'm Dave. I know, starting like an AA meeting right? Now you'all say,"Hi Dave".
Seriously though. I'm an automotive painter. I have been for a long time now, I started back in 1977 as a kid sanding new dodge vans with 600 wet/dry sandpaper so my brother could paint custom paint jobs on them(the seventies had a van craze going on back then, trick paint jobs, water beds inside).
I've got my own build thread going and a couple people seem interested in different areas of painting vehicles.
I was thinking that if enough people showed interest, I would spend the time to get a thread going on how to paint a vehicle.
Now this would be for those wanting to paint their own vehicles at home or in a rented booth. I could get more detailed for those with more experience as it would go on.
My experience:
I have been an ASE certified painter for a very long time.
If it matters, I'm a third level platinum certified paint tech with ICAR.
I have been certified by most of the major paint manufacturers in their individual systems (Sikkens, PPG Global, Nexa, DuPont, Sherwin Wiliams, etc....)
I've trained literally dozens of people from zero knowledge of painting to become painters over the years.
I spent 11 years in the army, what does this have to do with painting? They trained me not only to be proficient in the areas I was specializing in, but to also train others to become proficient in these areas. Glorified trainer that got to jump out of an airplane once in a while. A specialized meet and greeter, you might say....lol.
Anywho, if your interested, let me know.
This would take some time to work through the whole thing. Maybe I could focus on a topic each month.
Now, I could cover each subject as I would a new apprentice, if you want. This will take a while to get to info you might want.
During this process, if you have a question in a different area than what I'm covering, then just ask. I can PM you with any help I have to offer. I am still currently painting and have resources beyond myself. Though I have the experience of painting literally tens of thousands of cars.
I'm not trying to brag, I know, in the end, I'm just a carpainter. The army taught me what a true hero is, but I am good at what I do. I will deal with you honestly from real experience.
Sooooo, let me know what you think......What's in it for me?
I LOVE painting, I want you to love it too. Besides, all of you know stuff I don't and will probably need to know. I WILL be asking you for info in return.

Dang Dave! I just stumbled across this thread. I had no idea you had such tallents..lol This sounds like I know you already right...lol we'll, I'd like to think we are all friends on here. After all, we share more in common than some of us do with our wives....hobby-wise that is

Anyway, I'll read the whole thread when I get a chance. I just want to shout-out and to say I plan, as of now to do most of my bodywork myself. I may even go to paint too, that-is when I get to my bigger space. Right now I'm in a 1 car and it's tight. Besides, I'm not too keen on spaying outdoor under a make-shift booth...

Dave, I'll be in touch. Thanks. Dwayne.

BTW, the AA thing was funny, that's immediately what I think of when I see the join and introduce yourself prompts; but I guess we all have to do it at least once anyway....

 

[1200gt]

Oh, btw, though I said you don't have to spend as much as I did on my guns, but if you can, do it. The extra money makes getting the paint to lay out nice a whole lot easier.

I haven't read but the last couple post yet, and already find something I can agree with. Dave says it better. The gun is a major component in the final outcome of your paint job. The difference in a glass smooth finish and one that looks like orange peal. It's all in the atomizing of the paint, in addition to other factors. I've learned a lot form a youtuber named "The Gunman" This guy LOVES painting cars and he is an excellent teacher with talents to boot!

I always like to listen to those that do a thing for a living; why not absorb and learn everything you can. Guys like Dave are a God-send, at least for me... IMHO

I can't wait for time to read the rest of this thread...28 post

 

[RaggedGT]

Dave ole' buddy,
What's the best way to touch up/fix pearl paint chips ?

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Dave ole' buddy,
What's the best way to touch up/fix pearl paint chips ?

There's really no great way to touch them up. Try to get a touch up bottle from a dealership if it's a modern color.

Otherwise......If you have any of the paint, mix it 50/50 with a fast catalyzing clear. Touch up the chip with just the basecaot first to get coverage, then touch up with the mix. Allow it to harden and then color sand it like a dirt nib in a new paint job and buff it. It won't be perfect, but it'll be better looking than the bare chip.

Otherwise, feather out the chip, primer it, block it and refinish the panel.

 

[RaggedGT]

Thanks Dave.
I'll probably end up painting the tops of the quarters I''m going to replace the rear bumper cover on the wifes car(I got rear ended in it.) and was going to try my hand at spraying pearl paint on it,what's a little more body work/painting gonna hurt

 

[billison]

What would you suggest for removing the trim around the windshields?


Would this work?

http://m.harborfreight.com/4-piece-windshield-door-trim-tool-set-38386.html

 

[Davedacarpainter]

What would you suggest for removing the trim around the windshields?


Would this work?

http://m.harborfreight.com/4-piece-windshield-door-trim-tool-set-38386.html

Yeah, that third one from the left is the one you'd want. Cheap is good in this instance.

 

[billison]

Ok, some questions with a bump for the thread.

I got the cheap Windshield tool above and it worked like a charm, got a free tarp, batteries and a flashlight too.. I love harbor freight.

Ok, as you know I've laid my primer and let it cure. I'm starting my blocking tonight. Trying to figure out what sand papers I need so I don't waste money. I got a 40 yard roll of 220 to start things. For dealing with blocking the primer what grits would you suggest?

220 block-- see if reprime is needed
320 block ---

Then what? And for the final sand, is it more blocking, or is it by hand to just remove scratches. Thanks Dave!!

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Ok, some questions with a bump for the thread.

I got the cheap Windshield tool above and it worked like a charm, got a free tarp, batteries and a flashlight too.. I love harbor freight.

Ok, as you know I've laid my primer and let it cure. I'm starting my blocking tonight. Trying to figure out what sand papers I need so I don't waste money. I got a 40 yard roll of 220 to start things. For dealing with blocking the primer what grits would you suggest?

220 block-- see if reprime is needed
320 block ---

Then what? And for the final sand, is it more blocking, or is it by hand to just remove scratches. Thanks Dave!!

I typically block up to 600 grit, some will go up to 800 but there's a lot of different opinions on that. I always use a block for final sanding but heck I've seen people use a DA sander for "blocking" the guide coat. They sell really good kits that have blocks of all shapes and sizes.

I, however, know nothing and bow down to Dave

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Yeah, 220 is a great grit to start with. You'll probably want to reprimer after that because the primer probably won't be thick enough to last through all of the sanding.

After a reprimer, block again with 320-400. Then you'll jump up to 500-600 grit. Your going solid black so I don't really think you'll need to go to 800. Use a guide coat between grits to be sure you're removing the heavier scratches, as well as straightening the panel.