Need Help Carb Swap Fuel Pressure To High

codybear81

New Member
Apr 23, 2017
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did. carb swap 1988 gt 306 gt40p e cam 1.7rr doulpland intake 4160 600 cfm holly hei and i. am. running stock. tank and 255lph pump and. i. have mallory 4 to 25. psi. rutern regulator with. stock. lines. cant get. pressure any lower the 15. psi i. think the 1\4 rutern line is. to small. the can. handle. 200 gph and. up. to 100psi i was thinking about running 3\8 for. both lines will this help
 
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thank. you and. it was the return line the stock 1\4 to small
That's what happens when you employ roadkill engineering.
If this is a track only car, a carb swap is ok.

If it is street driven, it is bad news.
It isn't done properly, it is even worst news...

Here's the tech note on how to do it the right way.
How many things on the list did you skip? At least one and maybe more...

EFI to carb swaps

Revised 16-Dec-2015 to add necessity of mounting external electrical fuel pump below the level of the bottom of the fuel tank

A word of warning on EFI to carb swaps: don’t expect to pass emissions in any state that does comprehensive smog inspections, because it won’t happen. Some states will not title or issue license plates to cars that have been converted from EFI to carb. Be aware that you are violating several Federal laws concerning the removal of pollution control equipment. If you operate the vehicle on public highways and get caught by state or federal law enforcement (doubtful, but possible) you could be subject to fines and imprisonment. You won't get any more power from a carb than you will from a properly maintained and tuned EFI system.

The following information is intended for informational purposes only. Operation of a motor vehicle modified in such as manner as described below should be limited to off road use only.

Doing the swap; you must know how to read electrical diagrams and wire circuits to properly do the swap. Don’t take shortcuts or cut corners in the fabrication of the electrical or mechanical assemblies. If you do NASCAR quality work, the car will look good, run good and be as reliable as a carb’d car can be. Take pride in a job done with excellence.

If you are one of those few people who do excellent work, please disregard my negative comments. They are not intended for you.

Quality, quality, quality…
Some of the motivation of my negative comments about EFI to carb has to do with the quality of electrical workmanship. A lot of the wiring “repairs” that I have seen on the road and in the junkyard looks like road kill. The other part of my negative view stems from people who can’t grasp the operation and tuning of EFI. Carbs have their own set of requirements and some learning is required to get the best performance. Every car is different and each installation needs to be tuned to get the best performance. Putting an “out of the box carb” or one from someone else’s car isn’t the way to success. There is no auto compensation for small variations in carbs like there is for EFI. Just throwing a carb on a car because you won’t bother to learn how EFI works is a poor excuse.


Now that the rant is over, here’s some practical advice…

1. Do not use an EFI in tank fuel pump with a carb. You will never get the pressure/flow regulated properly. If the add on pressure regulator fails, you will flood the engine with gas and wash all the oil off the cylinder walls. That will cost you big time $$$. Either go full EFI or use a tank/fuel pump/fuel lines out of an 84 or earlier Stang. Fabricating your own setup is possible but there are some snags to overcome.

2. Do not attempt to leave the EFI computer in place in an attempt to control either the electric fuel pump or ignition. Doing so qualifies you for the “Road Kill Mechanics Award”.

3. If you try to use your current tank, you will need to pull the fuel pump out and fabricate a pickup tube & strainer sock to replace the fuel pump. Or you can have a sump fabricated and welded onto you existing tank. Many welding shops will not weld fuel tanks because of the dangers involved if the tank isn't purged properly.

4. You will need an external electric fuel pump unless you change the timing cover for one with the mechanical fuel pump mount on it. The external pump will have to be mounted below the bottom of the tank to get the siphon effect needed to keep the pump fed sufficiently. Rip all the EFI wiring out, and the computer controlled fuel pump won't work. You will need to add a relay & switch and wire in the existing inertia switch for an external low pressure electric fuel pump. Do not try to wire the fuel pump without the relay. The 15-20 amps the pump pulls will overload the circuit. This will take power away from other items on the same circuit or cause the fuse or fuse link to blow.

5.
fuel-pump-relay-for-carbd-cars-gif.50041.gif


6. You will need to run some new fuel feed lines or braided hose. The 3/8" aluminum tubing works well, but you will need a flaring tool and bending springs to fabricate the lines. Braided hose is easy to run and route, but is much more expensive. It is about $3.50-$4.00 a foot plus the end fittings, which are $3-$4 each. Fabricating hose assembles can be difficult, but anyplace that makes hydraulic hoses can do it for you for an extra charge. See http://www.amazonhose.com for more information.

7. For some help fabricating your own stainless steel hose assemblies, see
8. http://www.turbinefun.com/Stainless_Braided_Hose_Assembly.asp

9. For stainless steel braided hose and fittings for automotive use:

10. See http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=stainless steel hose&dds=1
11. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=stainless steel hose&dds=1

12. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...hall&searchTerm=stainless+steel+hose&x=18&y=4

13. See http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Product...rformanceProducts/FittingsProducts/index.htm for more information on High performance automotive hose products

14. AN fittings require a 37 degree flaring tool. A standard automotive or household plumbing tool is 45 degrees and cannot be used with AN flare fittings. If you do, the flare is subjected to too much stress when the fitting is tightened, and is likely to fail or leak.

15. See http://www.mscdirect.com/ , http://www.mcmaster.com/ or for the flaring tool you will need . Prices start at $85 and go up

16. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000013509163
17.
7478363-11.jpg


18. http://www.mcmaster.com/#flaring-tools/=b4fxc3
19.
2721ap1l.gif


20. Last time I was in Summit racing, they had a 37 degree flaring tool for less than $40. It may or may not be a catalog item.

21. While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Duraspark or similar ignition system. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Duraspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=127 for more information. Cost is about $400, which makes the 85 Mustang reman units look really appealing.


Duraspark II ignition diagram:

Diagram courtesy of /www.billwrigley.com
durasparkwiring.gif

See http://webpages.charter.net/1bad6t/duraspark.html for more help.
Note the ballast resistor shown in the diagram: you’ll need that too
If you use a coil from a 78 or later Mustang, you don't need the ballast resistor. The stock 89 Ford/Mustang ignition coil does not need a ballast resistor


A simpler HEI ignition that uses the same distributor and fewer parts can be found here. This is an excellent resource, and I suggest that you add it to your Internet Favorites
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48435

22. Tools needed:
23. Crimp tool for connector pins $9-$30 AutoZone, NAPA, Advance Auto Parts or other store
24. 100-150 watt soldering gun (recommend WELLER 8200PK soldering gun kit 100/140W) $30 at Lowes or $40 at Home Depot
25. 3/32”-1/8” rosin core electrical solder, 1/4 lb roll $6 at Ace Hardware, Home Depot or Lowes
26. Assorted sizes of heat shrink tubing. Buy long pieces and cut length to fit. It is cheaper that way. http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=346&CFID=169547&CFTOKEN=34300345
27. Hot air gun to shrink the tubing ($30-$40) Home Depot
28. Jeweler’s screwdriver kit $5 at Ace Hardware
29. Assorted automotive wire, 18-16 gauge 10’-20’ foot spools in different colors. $5 a roll at Advance Auto Parts.
30. Ford connector pins AutoZone, NAPA or other store $5-$10 for a kit of 10-12 assorted pins

31. You will have $110-$150 in materials and tools if you don't already have them.

32. The water temp and oil pressure signals feed from the sender to the main harness through the 10 pin EFI engine harness. To utilize these senders, you need to identify the wires and find a way to reconnect them to the main harness after the EFI engine harness is removed. You need a weatherproof quick connector to join the sender wiring to the main harness.

33. See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
salt-pepper-10-pin-connectors-65-jpg.68512

34. The injector power pin is the VPWR pin in the black 10 pin connector.


35. You will need to construct a wiring harness from the ‘85 carb distributor to the Duraspark box if you go Duraspark, or other distributor to coil wiring.
36. The voltmeter picks up its signal from the switched voltage present on the instrument panel, so you don’t need to worry about that.

37. The fuel tank gauge is also independent of the computer wiring.

38. AutoZone wiring diagrams can be found if you are willing to dig through the self help repair section of their website. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...3835D6CFF5E3A5037BBBD332CF445FF.diyprod2-b2c3

39. How to solder - see

View: http://youtu.be/uaYdCRjDr4A
This is an excellent how to do it.

40. Soldering pigtails onto existing pins is road kill quality work as far as I am concerned. Take some time to study the way the Ford connectors are assembled and you will find that a small jeweler’s screwdriver will release the pins from the connector shell. New pins and a crimping tool are available from the Standard Motor Parts or Bendix Electrical parts line that the NAPA & Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts stores carry. Ask any auto parts store about Standard Motor Products or Bendix Electrical wiring parts. Those that carry them will be able to get the parts you need. AutoZone has a cheap kit with 10 pins for about $5. Just enough pins to leave you short when assembling a connector.

41. One of the interesting things about the Ford OEM wiring diagrams is that the connector shape on the drawing matches the connector shape in the car. That makes it easier to identify connectors and circuits. OEM Ford diagrams are available at for an 85 Mustang at http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result....edia=&mscsid=2M838NG3R5SR2MCS00A3HVE05T03C501 or can be found in the Chilton series of auto repair manuals for Mustangs.

42. The following is an excellent idea from a fellow Stangnetter who tackled the wiring plan the right way. He obtained the wiring diagrams from an 85 carb'd V8 Mustang and laid them out side by side with the diagrams from his car. He then traced out each circuit and the wire colors and connectors associated with them. After tracing the circuit and connectors for a circuit, he laid out the changes he needed to make. One circuit at a time made a difficult big job into many smaller easy to manage jobs.

43. Copied from pikapp33.
JR’s comments:
I have heard that there have been quality problems with some of these Richporter distributors, but that may be a limited quantity of the units.

I recently changed my EFI mustang back to carb with MSD ignition, to save some money and go for a more simplistic approach. I researched, and found the best stock type distributor to use was from an 83 Bronco 5.0, which is a Duraspark (magnetic pickup, same as what MSD dists use), making it possible to use the 2 wire MSD trigger input, and also has a steel gear to work with the EFI hydraulic roller cam.

I chose to use a Richporter FD30 ($85). Then added a BWD C194A Cap Adapter ($12) to use the Fox style dist cap/wires (the Richporter comes with cap/rotor, which I didn't use; other brands come without and are cheaper, but have a core as well; no core on this one). And then a BWD D166 rotor ($6) to match the cap adapter. I also chose to buy the MSD 8869 adapter wire ($20ish) to connect the dist to the MSD harness for my 6AL. All together about $125, much cheaper than the MSD billet dists, and am very happy with the quality of the the dist and the way the setup worked out.

The Richporter FD30 distributor is available at Advance Auto Parts ($90) & O’Riley’s ($81)
 
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thank. you and. it was the return line the stock 1\4 to small
So you got it dialed in now with the larger return line?
Your post is sort of hard to understand, proof read your stuff and correct as necessary.
As for carb swapping, I'm not a fan of it, but it works if done correctly, jrichker spells it out in the above post, follow that formula and you will be a happy carb swap guy.
 
That's what happens when you employ roadkill engineering.
If this is a track only car, a carb swap is ok.

If it is street driven, it is bad news.
It isn't done properly, it is even worst news...

Here's the tech note on how to do it the right way.
How many things on the list did you skip? At least one and maybe more...

EFI to carb swaps

Revised 16-Dec-2015 to add necessity of mounting external electrical fuel pump below the level of the bottom of the fuel tank

A word of warning on EFI to carb swaps: don’t expect to pass emissions in any state that does comprehensive smog inspections, because it won’t happen. Some states will not title or issue license plates to cars that have been converted from EFI to carb. Be aware that you are violating several Federal laws concerning the removal of pollution control equipment. If you operate the vehicle on public highways and get caught by state or federal law enforcement (doubtful, but possible) you could be subject to fines and imprisonment. You won't get any more power from a carb than you will from a properly maintained and tuned EFI system.

The following information is intended for informational purposes only. Operation of a motor vehicle modified in such as manner as described below should be limited to off road use only.

Doing the swap; you must know how to read electrical diagrams and wire circuits to properly do the swap. Don’t take shortcuts or cut corners in the fabrication of the electrical or mechanical assemblies. If you do NASCAR quality work, the car will look good, run good and be as reliable as a carb’d car can be. Take pride in a job done with excellence.

If you are one of those few people who do excellent work, please disregard my negative comments. They are not intended for you.

Quality, quality, quality…
Some of the motivation of my negative comments about EFI to carb has to do with the quality of electrical workmanship. A lot of the wiring “repairs” that I have seen on the road and in the junkyard looks like road kill. The other part of my negative view stems from people who can’t grasp the operation and tuning of EFI. Carbs have their own set of requirements and some learning is required to get the best performance. Every car is different and each installation needs to be tuned to get the best performance. Putting an “out of the box carb” or one from someone else’s car isn’t the way to success. There is no auto compensation for small variations in carbs like there is for EFI. Just throwing a carb on a car because you won’t bother to learn how EFI works is a poor excuse.


Now that the rant is over, here’s some practical advice…

1. Do not use an EFI in tank fuel pump with a carb. You will never get the pressure/flow regulated properly. If the add on pressure regulator fails, you will flood the engine with gas and wash all the oil off the cylinder walls. That will cost you big time $$$. Either go full EFI or use a tank/fuel pump/fuel lines out of an 84 or earlier Stang. Fabricating your own setup is possible but there are some snags to overcome.

2. Do not attempt to leave the EFI computer in place in an attempt to control either the electric fuel pump or ignition. Doing so qualifies you for the “Road Kill Mechanics Award”.

3. If you try to use your current tank, you will need to pull the fuel pump out and fabricate a pickup tube & strainer sock to replace the fuel pump. Or you can have a sump fabricated and welded onto you existing tank. Many welding shops will not weld fuel tanks because of the dangers involved if the tank isn't purged properly.

4. You will need an external electric fuel pump unless you change the timing cover for one with the mechanical fuel pump mount on it. The external pump will have to be mounted below the bottom of the tank to get the siphon effect needed to keep the pump fed sufficiently. Rip all the EFI wiring out, and the computer controlled fuel pump won't work. You will need to add a relay & switch and wire in the existing inertia switch for an external low pressure electric fuel pump. Do not try to wire the fuel pump without the relay. The 15-20 amps the pump pulls will overload the circuit. This will take power away from other items on the same circuit or cause the fuse or fuse link to blow.

5.
fuel-pump-relay-for-carbd-cars-gif.50041.gif


6. You will need to run some new fuel feed lines or braided hose. The 3/8" aluminum tubing works well, but you will need a flaring tool and bending springs to fabricate the lines. Braided hose is easy to run and route, but is much more expensive. It is about $3.50-$4.00 a foot plus the end fittings, which are $3-$4 each. Fabricating hose assembles can be difficult, but anyplace that makes hydraulic hoses can do it for you for an extra charge. See http://www.amazonhose.com for more information.

7. For some help fabricating your own stainless steel hose assemblies, see
8. http://www.turbinefun.com/Stainless_Braided_Hose_Assembly.asp

9. For stainless steel braided hose and fittings for automotive use:

10. See http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=stainless steel hose&dds=1
11. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=stainless steel hose&dds=1

12. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&N=0&Ntt=stainless+steel+hose&Ntk=all&Nty=1&D=stainless+steel+hose&Ntx=mode+matchall&Dx=mode+matchall&searchTerm=stainless+steel+hose&x=18&y=4

13. See http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/ProductsbyName/Aeroquip/AeroquipPerformanceProducts/FittingsProducts/index.htm for more information on High performance automotive hose products

14. AN fittings require a 37 degree flaring tool. A standard automotive or household plumbing tool is 45 degrees and cannot be used with AN flare fittings. If you do, the flare is subjected to too much stress when the fitting is tightened, and is likely to fail or leak.

15. See http://www.mscdirect.com/ , http://www.mcmaster.com/ or for the flaring tool you will need . Prices start at $85 and go up

16. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000013509163
17.
7478363-11.jpg


18. http://www.mcmaster.com/#flaring-tools/=b4fxc3
19.
2721ap1l.gif


20. Last time I was in Summit racing, they had a 37 degree flaring tool for less than $40. It may or may not be a catalog item.

21. While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Duraspark or similar ignition system. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Duraspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=127 for more information. Cost is about $400, which makes the 85 Mustang reman units look really appealing.


Duraspark II ignition diagram:

Diagram courtesy of /www.billwrigley.com
durasparkwiring.gif

See http://webpages.charter.net/1bad6t/duraspark.html for more help.
Note the ballast resistor shown in the diagram: you’ll need that too
If you use a coil from a 78 or later Mustang, you don't need the ballast resistor. The stock 89 Ford/Mustang ignition coil does not need a ballast resistor


A simpler HEI ignition that uses the same distributor and fewer parts can be found here. This is an excellent resource, and I suggest that you add it to your Internet Favorites
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48435

22. Tools needed:
23. Crimp tool for connector pins $9-$30 AutoZone, NAPA, Advance Auto Parts or other store
24. 100-150 watt soldering gun (recommend WELLER 8200PK soldering gun kit 100/140W) $30 at Lowes or $40 at Home Depot
25. 3/32”-1/8” rosin core electrical solder, 1/4 lb roll $6 at Ace Hardware, Home Depot or Lowes
26. Assorted sizes of heat shrink tubing. Buy long pieces and cut length to fit. It is cheaper that way. http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=346&CFID=169547&CFTOKEN=34300345
27. Hot air gun to shrink the tubing ($30-$40) Home Depot
28. Jeweler’s screwdriver kit $5 at Ace Hardware
29. Assorted automotive wire, 18-16 gauge 10’-20’ foot spools in different colors. $5 a roll at Advance Auto Parts.
30. Ford connector pins AutoZone, NAPA or other store $5-$10 for a kit of 10-12 assorted pins

31. You will have $110-$150 in materials and tools if you don't already have them.

32. The water temp and oil pressure signals feed from the sender to the main harness through the 10 pin EFI engine harness. To utilize these senders, you need to identify the wires and find a way to reconnect them to the main harness after the EFI engine harness is removed. You need a weatherproof quick connector to join the sender wiring to the main harness.

33. See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
salt-pepper-10-pin-connectors-65-jpg.68512

34. The injector power pin is the VPWR pin in the black 10 pin connector.


35. You will need to construct a wiring harness from the ‘85 carb distributor to the Duraspark box if you go Duraspark, or other distributor to coil wiring.
36. The voltmeter picks up its signal from the switched voltage present on the instrument panel, so you don’t need to worry about that.

37. The fuel tank gauge is also independent of the computer wiring.

38. AutoZone wiring diagrams can be found if you are willing to dig through the self help repair section of their website. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...3835D6CFF5E3A5037BBBD332CF445FF.diyprod2-b2c3

39. How to solder - see

View: http://youtu.be/uaYdCRjDr4A
This is an excellent how to do it.

40. Soldering pigtails onto existing pins is road kill quality work as far as I am concerned. Take some time to study the way the Ford connectors are assembled and you will find that a small jeweler’s screwdriver will release the pins from the connector shell. New pins and a crimping tool are available from the Standard Motor Parts or Bendix Electrical parts line that the NAPA & Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts stores carry. Ask any auto parts store about Standard Motor Products or Bendix Electrical wiring parts. Those that carry them will be able to get the parts you need. AutoZone has a cheap kit with 10 pins for about $5. Just enough pins to leave you short when assembling a connector.

41. One of the interesting things about the Ford OEM wiring diagrams is that the connector shape on the drawing matches the connector shape in the car. That makes it easier to identify connectors and circuits. OEM Ford diagrams are available at for an 85 Mustang at http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=&Mfg=FMC&Make=FCT&Model=MUST&Year=1985&Category=&Keyword=&Module=&selected_media=&mscsid=2M838NG3R5SR2MCS00A3HVE05T03C501 or can be found in the Chilton series of auto repair manuals for Mustangs.

42. The following is an excellent idea from a fellow Stangnetter who tackled the wiring plan the right way. He obtained the wiring diagrams from an 85 carb'd V8 Mustang and laid them out side by side with the diagrams from his car. He then traced out each circuit and the wire colors and connectors associated with them. After tracing the circuit and connectors for a circuit, he laid out the changes he needed to make. One circuit at a time made a difficult big job into many smaller easy to manage jobs.

43. Copied from pikapp33.
JR’s comments:
I have heard that there have been quality problems with some of these Richporter distributors, but that may be a limited quantity of the units.

I recently changed my EFI mustang back to carb with MSD ignition, to save some money and go for a more simplistic approach. I researched, and found the best stock type distributor to use was from an 83 Bronco 5.0, which is a Duraspark (magnetic pickup, same as what MSD dists use), making it possible to use the 2 wire MSD trigger input, and also has a steel gear to work with the EFI hydraulic roller cam.

I chose to use a Richporter FD30 ($85). Then added a BWD C194A Cap Adapter ($12) to use the Fox style dist cap/wires (the Richporter comes with cap/rotor, which I didn't use; other brands come without and are cheaper, but have a core as well; no core on this one). And then a BWD D166 rotor ($6) to match the cap adapter. I also chose to buy the MSD 8869 adapter wire ($20ish) to connect the dist to the MSD harness for my 6AL. All together about $125, much cheaper than the MSD billet dists, and am very happy with the quality of the the dist and the way the setup worked out.

The Richporter FD30 distributor is available at Advance Auto Parts ($90) & O’Riley’s ($81)

Let's save the carb-swapping kids some money. Harbor Freight has a heat gun that's every bit as good as that $40 one from Home Depot for $10 ($7.99 with coupon).
I mean, they're already spending a fortune destroying the resale value and fuel economy of their car, so let's save them something. :D
 
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if you. care. about fuel economy then. get. a. smart. car and. did you forget. the best. fox. was carb. 1985. ho 14.3 with small gatorbacks and 273 gears and. its funny. lots of. haters. on here i just. need help fuel. pressure. but i got it
 
if you. care. about fuel economy then. get. a. smart. car and. did you forget. the best. fox. was carb. 1985. ho 14.3 with small gatorbacks and 273 gears and. its funny. lots of. haters. on here i just. need help fuel. pressure. but i got it
If you had followed the instructions that I posted, you would never had a fuel pressure problem. Do it the right way the first time and it won't come back to bite you because of poor planning and execution.

If the 85 GT was the best year, why didn't you copy what Ford did for that year to make the carb work so well?
 
ok its right now thanks for treating me like. sh--t just. cuzz you. dont like carb lol just. so you. know. i was efi before i had the. gt4op. cobra intake. mass air and. 24lbs and and my motor. 306 10.5. to 1 and it ran good but i want more. power and. make it. easyer. to tune i am. not a hater. to each there. own
 
Come back here @codybear81 and read what you wrote. I don't know what apparatus you are using to post but It's like talking to a two year old, like I said before, proof read your stuff so it makes sence.
As for carb vs efi thats a debate without end, most people that put a carb on a efi car are unwilling to put the time it takes to make it work and use the excuse that a carb is better/easier/faster than efi, like I said that is a never ending argument.
jrichker outlines a recipe for a successful conversion to carb, If he told me to stick a banana in my tailpipe because I needed more back pressure I'd do it without question.
I'm willing to bet that setup you have is going to give you grief, I could be wrong though, because. you. got. it.
 
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You still post like a two year old and nobody is acting like an a-hole, you are on stangnet not facepage.
We treat people with respect and try to help them out.
If you feel you are being treated bad than we are in disagreement.
 
if you. guys love. ford junk. efi and. there. wireing. fine but. i guss you for. get the best old cars. were. carb thanks. for your. help
Said Ford EFI system was the best EFI system for building a performance car for years. There were guys with 12-second 5.0LX's with nothing more than the "10-minute tune-up". "The best old cars" being carbureted is a patently false argument. Carburetors are little more than controlled air and fuel leaks. They had their place and time, but it is for the most part gone. Facts trump nostalgia.

if you. care. about fuel economy then. get. a. smart. car and. did you forget. the best. fox. was carb. 1985. ho 14.3 with small gatorbacks and 273 gears and. its funny. lots of. haters. on here i just. need help fuel. pressure. but i got it
A Smart Car? That's the best you got? Hell, the F150forum.com guys would've at least said get a Prius... mainly because Smart Cars don't actually get good fuel economy. The '85 fox was also not the best in any way other than looks, an EFI 5.0LX car was faster. I like good fuel economy because it saves me money. My EFI 5.0 GT 'vert would get 27mpg highway as a commuter and run 13s at the track, and this was back when a 13-second street car was fast. Hell, I ditched my carburetor on my latest 'stang and went EFI. Picked up 2mpg, easier cold starting, and shaved a tenth of my E.T.

ok its right now thanks for treating me like. sh--t just. cuzz you. dont like carb lol just. so you. know. i was efi before i had the. gt4op. cobra intake. mass air and. 24lbs and and my motor. 306 10.5. to 1 and it ran good but i want more. power and. make it. easyer. to tune i am. not a hater. to each there. own
So you had the usual junkyard bolt-ons, wanted more power, and proceded to spend a lot of money doing nothing to fix that, but we're haters and treating you like :poo: for pointing it out, got ya.

i understand. the. carb efi debate. but. people dont need to act like A--HOLE when. you ask. for help and with the. carb. set up if i got spark and. fuel. it will run thanks

Yeah, you got it all right, 255lph high-pressure pump pushing against a regulator meant for lower pressure Is just a big ol' recipe for success. When that regulator :poo:s the bed and you've got gas pouring out of the vent towers on that Holley 4160 and you car burns to the ground because that gas hits the hot headers, you'll wish you'd taken the time to read @jrichker 's post about how to do it right.


Also, what's with all the extra periods when you type? Your posts read like William Shatner's acting.
 
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the. reg i. got is ment for. high pressure pump and i put. the stock. 88 lph. the. reg can handle 200 gph staying. right. a 6. psi. now with right. size. return line burn thats. what. happen to. the efi. it lifted 2 injector. spryed 105 octane on hot Motor. and. melted plugs to geather thanks for the help
 
Jeez, the guys are kind of feeding on you a bit here.

Everyone, the guy wasn't asking your opinion of what you think about his carburetor swap. He wanted to do it, it's done and was just seeing if we could be nice enough to help him.

Swapping to a carburetor isn't a "dumb" move, it's not a bad thing for the street either. Fuel injection certainly does have it's benefits. If you like working on a carbed engine, then cool.

One thing I will have to agree with the guys is that your posts are a little difficult to understand. It would be helpful to take the time to make them clearer.

So, to the reason you posted in the first place.

You're fuel lines won't be that big of a deal, but like Joe said in his detailed post, there are details to make your car run smooth.

Switching over to a carb does take a little money. Your car was designed for fuel injection, including that high pressure fuel pump. Putting in an FPR to cut the pressure to the ~7psi you'll want really is a band aid fix. You should get a fuel pump designed for the lower pressure a carb needs. FPR's aren't designed to cut pressure down from the fourties to single digit pressure for daily use. They will wear out. They are designed to keep your fuel pressure within a small variance. They are also designed to work with the proper type pump.

You don't necessarily even need to run a return line. Get an FPR that doesn't run one or cap off the return line.

The problem with you having the 15psi is that you need to get the proper fuel pump that will run at the lower pressure. You won't really need larger lines until you really step up your power.

Reread through @jrichker s' post, it's filled with good information for you.

By the way, the fellas are whining about the resale value of your mustang with a carb. Resale value, really? It might only be worth $2850 now instead of $3000?

These cars are still readily available and however a guy wants to hop it up is probably going to be ok. Hell, some guys even drop chevy motors in them, huh?:eek:

Obviously you've learned through the interaction here is not to start a thread with which is better, FI or carb.:D