How to get rid of the Gas Smell

Yeah, honestly, I'm not a big fan of the smell on my catless turbo cars. The blue car even gives me a headache on longer drives when I'm putting around town. If they make cats that flow enough and if there's enough space, what with all the turbo piping, I could see putting them on, even though I don't have to worry about emissions checks in Florida. The charcoal canister will not be making a return, however.
 
So I just spent some time with the old-girl - i think the primary smell is exhaust fumes..NOT Raw Fuel.
Invest in a AFR gauge,they are cheap enough. Are the tail pipes black ?
My car has no cats,big carb (950) single plane intake. H/R is 244/252 @.050
idles at 13.7-13.9 afr,(can go leaner) cruise is 14 .0 + no gas smell. Lean enough to keep,
-9 plugs clean. WOT is 12.8 ish.
 
Invest in a AFR gauge,they are cheap enough. Are the tail pipes black ?
My car has no cats,big carb (950) single plane intake. H/R is 244/252 @.050
idles at 13.7-13.9 afr,(can go leaner) cruise is 14 .0 + no gas smell. Lean enough to keep,
-9 plugs clean. WOT is 12.8 ish.

I'll look into it. I dont know much about how to read AFR (whats good, not good etc) - but if AFR is messed up - aren't these OBD1 computers "un-tunable"? How would i correct?? I live in Western PA - and we don't have an emissions test so its really only about the smell - if i can get that to go away w/o having to buy a catted H then that would obviously be optimal..
 
If your car is 351 and has an aftermarket ( holley or edelbrock ) carburetor them I'm sure it isn't using the computer for A/F adjustments.

On my carb'd car I ran a cheap air fuel ratio gauge from advance auto. Hooked it up to the factory o2 sensor wire per instructions. The gauge had yellow green and red lights. Red= rich, yellow= lean, green= stoich- where you want to be at idle and cruise. Accelerating it went a couple lights into red...rich. down hill or decel went into the yellow...or lean. In my turbo car i have a real wide band o2 and digital gauge. The higher the number the leaner you are...lower the number the richer you are. Want to be as close to 14.7 idling or a hair higher...like 15.

The A/F gauge works wonders when it comes to tuning a carb.
 
Invest in a AFR gauge,they are cheap enough. Are the tail pipes black ?
My car has no cats,big carb (950) single plane intake. H/R is 244/252 @.050
idles at 13.7-13.9 afr,(can go leaner) cruise is 14 .0 + no gas smell. Lean enough to keep,
-9 plugs clean. WOT is 12.8 ish.


Interesting. I've tuned mine to idle at ~15:1, and it definitely has that smell.
 
Aside from the oil on them. My plug readings have validated the Wide band readings. Yeah, I suppose it's just a pungent exhaust smell. Either way, it's the same issue to me and the OP:
So I just spent some time with the old-girl - i think the primary smell is exhaust fumes..NOT Raw Fuel.
 
Like others have said it verifying afr would help point you in the right direction.
Just for reference my 93GT has a 393w, charcoal canister installed but no cats.
I could drive for hours and never be overpowered by a fuel smell, difference is
I have a PimpXS ecu for tuning.
The red flag to me is the op is running a 351w with stock ecu and no chip.
 
Like others have said it verifying afr would help point you in the right direction.
Just for reference my 93GT has a 393w, charcoal canister installed but no cats.
I could drive for hours and never be overpowered by a fuel smell, difference is
I have a PimpXS ecu for tuning.
The red flag to me is the op is running a 351w with stock ecu and no chip.


Hmm.. Interesting.. I didn't actually pull the ECU out to verify if it has a piggyback or not - I'm assuming not. Seller never mentioned it. I have next to no exposure to "Tuning" in the true sense.. I've loaded pre-canned tunes on some of the newer cars i've owned but never self tuned. While responding here i started to look up some options and found TwEECerRt - seems reasonably priced - do you have any other recommendations? In or around that price-point.
*Note* i am NOT a skilled tuner - the closer to PnP the better.
 
I think I would lean towards a quarterhorse in that range. But a megasquirt based system, PimpXS included, would be so much better.
 
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I would recommend Stinger's PimpXS system, it's plug and play and has some limited ability to self tune.
I also had basically no tuning experience prior to buying mine but it is pretty user friendly and they will set you
up with a base tune pre-loaded.
I had my car up and running within a few hours, if you follow the install steps it's really fairly simple.
Really any of the MS systems would be good (megaquirt, microsquirt, etc.)
Do some reading on the Digital tuning part of this site to get familiar with some of the options etc.
We have a91what on here who is a tuning guru and is always willing to help, he's helped me a bunch.
 
Tuning equipment is NOT the solution to your problem.
You have a 351 (which is just a larger 302) with no emissions equimpment.
Of course it smells.
I'm amazed how often aftermarket tuning is throw around as answer around here.
Put the emissions equipment back on (at least the cats), then make sure there are no exhaust leaks (just because you don't hear it, doesn't mean it's not there) and make sure anything with a seal is intact, especially the transmission lower boot.
 
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I guess we need some clarification on injectors, maf, etc.
Yes a 351 is larger , most people that make that upgrade also change injector size, maf if equipped, cam, heads, fuel pump etc. If running stock untuned a9l it could definitely effect how it runs.
 
The stock a9L can can put up with much more than most guys around here give it credit for (650rwhp+, even 7500rpm with an extender).
If the car is running rich on a NA 351 with the right meter and injectors, the problem is not the computer, for all it knows, it's still a 302.
 
I don't disagree with you, Joe. Neither my 363 nor my 331, both with a high-end stand-alone system (big stuff 3), smell clean the way a catted car does. I don't think tuning is going to solve his problem, but if his AFR is out of whack, it can definitely make things worse. I suppose the stock computer is not going to be far off on timing. I have no idea on AFR, though. So, I wouldn't know if he's experiencing the exact same thing as I am without being there. But as he started asking about systems, I made a recommendation.

You know, @stussy2870 , if you want the ability to tune for other reasons, then go ahead as it serves a dual-purpose. However, if you're just doing it to get the smell to go away, then you can tune your idle just by adjusting timing and fuel pressure yourself. If you can't get the smell to go away at idle doing that, then you won't be able to do it with a computer, either. Air (TB set screw) will affect idle stability and speed, check TPS (should be under 1V at idle or it's telling the computer that you're not idling), ensure correct fuel pressure (39 psi, I think) before you start, and loosen the distributor bolt a bit so it spins with pressure but not on its own (need a timing light first). You might even consider locking timing out by pulling the spout so you have exact control over that, too. Then, try leaning it out and see if there's any improvement before messing with timing. That way you'd at least be able to see what you can achieve with tuning before you spend a grand on equipment.

I checked to see if you'd mentioned having an AFPR before and caught the thread where you talked about removing it because of significant fuel pressure issues. I think we need to stop debating what computer you should install and deal with that issue, first. I'd say leave the AFPR on there until you know it's bad. You've got a schrader valve fuel pressure gauge on the way, anyways. So, when you put it on there and check out your fuel pressure, you might end up finding the real issue right there. If you really are running 90psi, as stated in the other thread, then that would obviously cause a huge problem. I'm not sure a stock pump would even move fuel at that pressure, in any case I know they'd be in trouble and unable to move much volume. So, I suspect a completely wrong gauge. Plus you mentioned the car running fine at 90 and then stumbling at 70. Well, those are just crazy pressures, and it should not be stumbling in the slightest if it were really at 70, but it would be pig rich. What size injectors are you running? 19s would effectively be 26 lbs at that pressure.
 
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I don't disagree with you, Joe. Neither my 363 nor my 331, both with a high-end stand-alone system (big stuff 3), smell clean the way a catted car does. I don't think tuning is going to solve his problem, but if his AFR is out of whack, it can definitely make things worse. I suppose the stock computer is not going to be far off on timing. I have no idea on AFR, though. So, I wouldn't know if he's experiencing the exact same thing as I am without being there. But as he started asking about systems, I made a recommendation.

You know, @stussy2870 , if you want the ability to tune for other reasons, then go ahead as it serves a dual-purpose. However, if you're just doing it to get the smell to go away, then you can tune your idle just by adjusting timing and fuel pressure yourself. If you can't get the smell to go away at idle doing that, then you won't be able to do it with a computer, either. Air (TB set screw) will affect idle stability and speed, check TPS (should be under 1V at idle or it's telling the computer that you're not idling), ensure correct fuel pressure (39 psi, I think) before you start, and loosen the distributor bolt a bit so it spins with pressure but not on its own (need a timing light first). You might even consider locking timing out by pulling the spout so you have exact control over that, too. Then, try leaning it out and see if there's any improvement before messing with timing. That way you'd at least be able to see what you can achieve with tuning before you spend a grand on equipment.

I checked to see if you'd mentioned having an AFPR before and caught the thread where you talked about removing it because of significant fuel pressure issues. I think we need to stop debating what computer you should install and deal with that issue, first. I'd say leave the AFPR on there until you know it's bad. You've got a schrader valve fuel pressure gauge on the way, anyways. So, when you put it on there and check out your fuel pressure, you might end up finding the real issue right there. If you really are running 90psi, as stated in the other thread, then that would obviously cause a huge problem. I'm not sure a stock pump would even move fuel at that pressure, in any case I know they'd be in trouble and unable to move much volume. So, I suspect a completely wrong gauge. Plus you mentioned the car running fine at 90 and then stumbling at 70. Well, those are just crazy pressures, and it should not be stumbling in the slightest if it were really at 70, but it would be pig rich. What size injectors are you running? 19s would effectively be 26 lbs at that pressure.

Ok.. Tons to answer:
-Im obviously not flush with cash so just replacing an ECU isn't really in the budget -YET- but i can say that i would entertain the idea of a MS or twEECer etc.. Thats farther down the road so right now im working with a stock A9l.
-With regard to Fuel pressure- i took the advice of another member and replaced that AFPR with a stock unit. I also verified proper pressure on the line AFTER removing the AFPR
-Checked Timing - 12degrees
-Did base idle reset, TPS volts are .980 ish (ill need to do this again though b/c my idle is too low - around 600-650RPM)
-Injectors are 30lb's - was told the MAF was matching. MAF meter was cleaned with proper electrical cleaner
-again, was told its a TF stage 2 cam
-Summit Blue Print Aluminum Heads Hp9008

FWIW, the car runs really strong, no issues with power, also seems that the exhaust tips are not getting too black/sooty ..BUT.. I'm not driving it now b/c it needs a clutch..Thats this week.. I've only driven it about 100 miles since the purchase.. I think that the Cats might be my answer. Not sure about the Tank, the rubber seal in the neck or the Canister Valve..

But as always - you guys are a wealth of information and i cant express my thanks enough!!