How to get rid of the Gas Smell

Ok.. Tons to answer:
-Im obviously not flush with cash so just replacing an ECU isn't really in the budget -YET- but i can say that i would entertain the idea of a MS or twEECer etc.. Thats farther down the road so right now im working with a stock A9l.
-With regard to Fuel pressure- i took the advice of another member and replaced that AFPR with a stock unit. I also verified proper pressure on the line AFTER removing the AFPR
-Checked Timing - 12degrees
-Did base idle reset, TPS volts are .980 ish (ill need to do this again though b/c my idle is too low - around 600-650RPM)
-Injectors are 30lb's - was told the MAF was matching. MAF meter was cleaned with proper electrical cleaner
-again, was told its a TF stage 2 cam
-Summit Blue Print Aluminum Heads Hp9008

FWIW, the car runs really strong, no issues with power, also seems that the exhaust tips are not getting too black/sooty ..BUT.. I'm not driving it now b/c it needs a clutch..Thats this week.. I've only driven it about 100 miles since the purchase.. I think that the Cats might be my answer. Not sure about the Tank, the rubber seal in the neck or the Canister Valve..

But as always - you guys are a wealth of information and i cant express my thanks enough!!

Depending on where your vent line is left open to atmosphere, your car can you stink to high heavens if it is in the engine bay or front fender well.

Anyone who says otherwise is speaking from speculation. It gets worse with the windows down and at idle.

If you know where the line is open, you can cap it for a “short” drive and see if the smell improves. This will also give an indication if your has system is sealed...not a 100% accurate. After said short drive one of 3 things could happen.

1. Smell reduces and you go to your gas cap, (open away from any ignition source i.e cigarettes/open flame) and you should hear the pressure release if everything else is sealed. Sounds like an air brake discharging. Get a charcoal canister and purge solenoid.

2. The smell is not as strong or takes longer as it either finds the weak point in the system i.e rubber seal mentioned above or somewhere else. Sometimes if the vent pressure gets too high it can blow the cap (the cap you put on the line temporarily) off or the line off behind the passenger side door. An indication of this will be no releasing built pressure at tank.

3. Capping it does nothing at all. Meaning the vent pressure (gas smell) is not even making it to line. Inspect gas system.

If your car is making your clothes stink when you have the windows up. Check the rubber gourmets in the engine bay and ensure the rubber seal is below the leather boot of shifter. A lot of people forget to put this in after a swap or changing shifters.

Lastly if it is running rich as you mentioned...before we had wide bands and standalones....we just read the plugs. Pull a plug (or a few) and sell how its burning.
If it is pig rich, then i would check the MAF and ensure it is indeed calibrated for your injectors.
 
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