So it's not a particular axle per say, it's a factory axle modified. So it bolts up just like a factory axle with whatever
suspension system you have. You won't see much from the pictures, but I will link my build thread which has pictures. I had my factory axle modified actually. Moser offers the M88 axle which is a new casting of a factory axle modified anyway you want it. In the end, I spent more money, and dealt with way more hassle than just buying a Moser M88 axle, so that's how I would go. So the largest mod is the transition to what is called a bolt on axle, or "9 inch ends." This is massively important for drag racing on slicks. Slicks are really hard on the drivetrain, and snapping an axle is common. The 8.8" axle has design flaw, the axle is secured inside the differential with a C-clip. So if the axle brakes, there is nothing holding the wheel on the car, the wheel can eject from the vehicle, and you have a nasty crash. The old 9" design secures axles at the wheel, so if the axle brakes, the wheel stays on the car. The old 9" also has a much larger, and more durable wheel bearing in it. Moser makes an axle end that has the full size bolt on size 9" bearing, but has an 8.8" bolt pattern for brake compatibility.
The second part of the build has to do with the differential. The factory Ford T-loc differential is just a piece of
, I mean there is no way to sugar coat it. It's the reason Mustangs spin tires and fish tail so much. Basically, one tire starts spinning long before the differential locks up, and the other tire starts spinning after it locks up because the car is not accelerating, because the first tire is in kinetic friction, not static friction. Obviously on a pure drag car you would have a spool, which is the absence of a differential, but on a street car, the Eaton True-trac, or Strange S-trac can simulate it really well while maintainging differential capabilities for turns. It's this torque based management friction thing that I don't understand, but my Dad could if you had 2 hours to listen to him explain it. Anyway, being able to put a better differential in makes a huge difference.
The true-trac differential can not be used with a C-clip design, because there is no provision in the differential for the C-clips. It's quite simply impossible to fit them in. However, you can secure the axles at the ends using something called a C-clip eliminator kit. It's a bolt on kit you can do it at home that requires to cut the end of the axle off. It's a non precise cut you can do with a hack saw. It's way cheaper than welding on new ends, and totally a realistic option. The downsides to it are: It uses a smaller less durable bearing that has a tendancy to fail. They also tend to leak gear oil. It also does not correct any factory axle imperfections. Factory axles tend not be straight. It's not uncommon for the wheel base to be off by 1/4" from side to side. Mass produced axles just aren't straight. It's the reason Mustangs have to have thrust angle alignments. When you go to a weld on axle end, the axle is jigged on a straight bar, and all factory mis-alignment is corrected by welding the axle end on at the correct angle.
Build thread
This should be my final edit on this post. The car is running now, and the axle is working as it should. This axle was fabricated by Attitude Street Cars in Marietta, GA. There are very few fabricators that build axles like this, and I had a very positive experience dealing with Attitude...
www.stangnet.com
Kurt