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Thank you for this.So if it were me I would stud the lower intake. They pull down better and you are not turning a bolt into aluminum threads while pulling up on the threads. With the studs you are turning a nut on the top of the stud that is in turn pulling upwards on the threads at the bottom of the stud with no turning. Witt that they will have way less of a chance to strip the aluminum threads in the heads and the compression on the gasket is a lot better.
I got the studs for both of mine at O'Reillys (believe they were Dorman) and had to thread the upper part farther down the stud as there were not enough threads. If I were to do it again I would get the ARP 354-2103 intake studs. My enginer builder had me ditch the regular washers and get 5/16" plain finish williams washers.
Amazon product ASIN B005ASZ1HO
View: https://www.amazon.com/ARP-354-2103-Intake-Small-Block/dp/B005ASZ1HO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=L9Y51MTZE7KL&keywords=arp+354-2103&qid=1684371291&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=automotive&sprefix=arp+354-2103%2Cautomotive%2C117&sr=1-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc
Not saying this is cheap by any means but after I stripped a couple of the intake threads on my AFR185's it would have been money well spent.
Stole this from a post by jrichker:
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
The bolts are torqued down in a 3 step process.
Step 1 8 ft/lbs
Step 2 16 ft/lbs
Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs
Quick note, I have a different intake, though the torque specs are prolly super similar.
Im going to do a little research about the stud/bolt. One lame benefit of stud vs bolt is simply assembly. I basically created studs for the head installations so I could position everything.
Im leaning toward the studs, just means Ill need to get started on fitting the engine fans. I cant keep putting this work off, summer is basically around the corner.
Thank you again
My upper intake is completely studded as well. Hell my TB and TB spacer are studded to the upper intake.
The torque specs apply to basically every lower intake that I know of and even the carbureted intakes. Same values and sequence that I use the on Vic Jr on my T-bird with the 351W.
Be sure to clean out the injector bosses. Mine are bare metal as I feel like that gives the o-rings a better chance to seal. Lube the o-rings with some light weight oil prior to installing as that will keep them from cutting or tearing.
The torque specs apply to basically every lower intake that I know of and even the carbureted intakes. Same values and sequence that I use the on Vic Jr on my T-bird with the 351W.
Be sure to clean out the injector bosses. Mine are bare metal as I feel like that gives the o-rings a better chance to seal. Lube the o-rings with some light weight oil prior to installing as that will keep them from cutting or tearing.
Bench tested the contour electrical fan. Next up is to figure out where to wire the controller. @AeroCoupe - you had mentioned you had a spot you liked for the controller and sensor?
I have Mark VIII's on my cars so just a little different. I put the DC Controller on a bracket that is riveted to the core support behind the inner wheel wheel and just behind the bumper. Same place my MSD is located. I'm putting new roller rockers on the car today so when I get to the valve adjustment part I will have the front end up and I can snap a picture or two.
No plastic seals. Just a big bead of RTV sealant, let it sit for about 15-20 min and then put the lower on.
The plastic "caps" are called pintle caps and you can get them at most parts stores:
Vacuum line routing for an Explorer intake:
stangnet.com
The plastic "caps" are called pintle caps and you can get them at most parts stores:
Vacuum line routing for an Explorer intake:
Engine - Explorer intake vacuum line diagram
Have seen this question asked a million times. So here's a diagram. This is an EARLY Explorer intake with the EGR port. There were two lower manifolds. The RF-F87E-9K461-BA lower was early and had the bosses present for the ACT. The RF-F87E-9K461-BB lower was later (non-EGR) and lacks the...
stangnet.com
Got the replacement pintle cap stuff.No plastic seals. Just a big bead of RTV sealant, let it sit for about 15-20 min and then put the lower on.
The plastic "caps" are called pintle caps and you can get them at most parts stores:
Vacuum line routing for an Explorer intake:
Engine - Explorer intake vacuum line diagram
Have seen this question asked a million times. So here's a diagram. This is an EARLY Explorer intake with the EGR port. There were two lower manifolds. The RF-F87E-9K461-BA lower was early and had the bosses present for the ACT. The RF-F87E-9K461-BB lower was later (non-EGR) and lacks the...
So your saying to let the RTV start to harden before putting on on intake? Just want to be sure.
Sorry for the late response got a call from a buddy to ride shotgun in his 69 fastback to a parking lot full of bad ass cars last night at the local AutoZone.
When you put the RTV on (get the one that is resistant to oil or the one for gear oil) it needs to just skin up where you can touch it and it doesn't stick to your skin. Anyhow that's how I do it.
Look at this video and at about 2:45 he puts it down like I would.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UoeazuVbQk
Most say you need to immediately put the lower on but again I will let it sit until it just skins up but you do you.
When you put the RTV on (get the one that is resistant to oil or the one for gear oil) it needs to just skin up where you can touch it and it doesn't stick to your skin. Anyhow that's how I do it.
Look at this video and at about 2:45 he puts it down like I would.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UoeazuVbQk
Most say you need to immediately put the lower on but again I will let it sit until it just skins up but you do you.
Reminds me of when my EX friend who owned Two Guards red 911 Porsches, called me to drive one home from town for him.... Yup, I sure could....
I think I forgot I was given this.
Gonna move over the electrical thing. Any other work needed?
Also- I’ll need a new spacer. Old one is too small. Anything else?
Gonna move over the electrical thing. Any other work needed?
Also- I’ll need a new spacer. Old one is too small. Anything else?
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