Fox A4LD Install Issues, Crank from Solenoid, No Start

Recently traded for a 93 LX 2.3 auto. On the drive back home I magically had 5 neutrals. Somehow coasted back home and reverse was the only gear left. I managed to source an 89 A4LD and I understand the differences between the two wire and three wire for the converter lockup/OD…

Anyways got the old transmission out and the 89 in in a couple of hours. And no I have no start.

I followed the no start, no crank checklist and everything seems to test fine. Battery tests fine, I can jump the starter from the solenoid and have the engine crank over but it still won’t fire up completely.

I can put the key in the ignition and I can hear the fuel pump turn on and the dash lights up. If I turn the key I get nothing.

Haven’t checked pressure at fuel rail but I can certainly smell fuel when cranking from the solenoid. Has spark, and sounds like it has compression. I can hear whooshing coming from the exhaust when cranking. It also ran and drove before the transmission swap and I did all of this within 2 days of the old transmission blowing.

Not sure what else I should look into. Not sure if the neutral safety switch on this used transmission is dead or if somehow randomly the ignition switch decided to die. If the NSS was junk would it prevent the engine from completely firing up when jumping it from the solenoid? Or does this sound more fuel/spark/compression related?
 
You sure the torque converter is seated in the spline of the trans?
The torque converter should spin freely when unbolted from the flywheel.
Pretty sure, installed the converter and spun it freely in the transmission before installation. I’ve done 3 different 4L60s before. This A4LD was a pain due to the converter having studs. Once the bell housing and converter were bolted up the crank seemed frozen up. I know the used transmission was sitting outside for about a year before I purchased it. I freed up the crank and seems to spin freely now.
 
Not sure what you did there.
Two things come to mind:
1: the fly wheels are different between the two transmissions
and/or converter is not seated thus binding up
2: battery power is low
I don’t necessarily think the flywheels are different. Both were 2.3, A4LD cars. Only difference I’ve gather between the two is the wiring is different for the converter lockup and OD. Converter may not possibly be seated all the way, or became unseated while I was struggling with the stupid design of the studs on it. I was thinking possibly battery as well, seems like it has barely enough power to crank it slowly but not enough to get it fully fired up. Don’t really wanna pull the trans again unless I get it towed to the shop where I work. Kinda stuck at my condo for the time being.
 
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Have you verified the neutral safety switch is not the cause?
Not yet, kinda hard to test/verify because I don’t get out of work until it starts getting dark out. Will either have to wait until the weekend or I might be able to attempt to bypass the NSS wires. Still going to try and crank it with it in neutral later tonight. Possibly pick up a new battery as well.
 
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Was able to do a few more tests after work. Definitely has fuel pressure at the rail, sprayed everywhere with a decent amount of force. Put a new battery in. Cranks over faster from the solenoid but that's about it. Just cranks and cranks and cranks. Trying to start with the key I still get nothing. Now I’m leaning more towards the torque converter not being seated and now the potential that the transmission pump/converter/input shaft being shredded from breaking the crank free with the ratchet.

Will most likely being trailering it with a U-Haul or my Duramax to my shop to pull the transmission yet again. Trying to decide if I just want a transmission shop to deal with it or keep attempting to tackle this myself.
 
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I have two a4lds in Beaufort Sc and you are welcome to have them if you can pick them up.
Both were running when removed, the first came out because it had no od, the second, several years later because it lost 2nd gear.

I put in a t5.
 
At this point contemplating a T5 swap, because seems as if there aren’t any affordable A4LD’s around me. Most scrapyards want $500+ and T5’s with the 2.3 bell housing run $225ish.

Plus pedal and bracket
Plus quadrant
Plus cable
Plus Fire Wall Adjuster

Stock T5 shifter isn't worth a flying :poo: so...

Plus an MGW Shifter
Plus Flywheel
Plus Clutch and TOB

Beer...


All for a 2.3? LoL

You could have a V8 O_o

With a big, nasty carb sitting on the top. :SN:
 
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