Progress Thread LILCBRA's 87 GT vert project (now prepping to replace the left floor pan)

#41
Sometimes keeping your eye on for sale ads pays off in ways you'd never expect.....

I was perusing Craigslist and come across this ad:

atlanta.craigslist.org

Convertible Top from 1989 Mustang - auto parts - by owner - vehicle...

Canvas convertible roof with rear glass pulled from a 1989 Mustang. Can not guarantee that the hydraulic motor/ system works, but the top worked fine manually while it was on the car. Just needs a...
atlanta.craigslist.org

He's selling this complete top/frame assembly:

1618507114590.png



It looks pretty good from the pics, and the price isn't all that bad, and I've been thinking that I want a tan top.... :chin
Gonna get a hold of him and see about picking it up over the next couple of days. He mentions in his ad that he's not sure if the hydraulics work, but I just happen to have 2 sets here so I don't care about any of that. As long as the top is decent and the frame isn't jacked, it's kinda what I want to do anyway. Fingers crossed! :)
 
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#44
Just a copy/paste of the mass air pin changes so I won't have to search again. I might actually try to button this up tonight after work finally. :chin

Mass AirFlow Wire Harness Wire Callouts
Red Wire-VPWR (Main Power) This wire must be spliced into pin 37 or 57 on the 60-pin main connector.
Black Wire-PWR GND (Main Ground) This wire must be spliced into pin 40 or 60 on the 60-pin main connector.

Green Wire-MAF RTN (Signal Ground)This wire/terminal must be inserted into location 9 on the 60-pin main connector.
White Wire-MAF RTN (Signal) This wire/terminal must be inserted into location 50 on the 60-pin main connector.


I seem to remember running into another tutorial a while back that has you move a couple of other wires. For example, let's say there's a wire in location #9 for the green wire. That wire would then relocate to pin #X. Does anyone have any insight or a better tutorial/diagram for quick reference? Like I said, it's been a while....
 
#49
I don't have a lot to report here except that I actually raised the hood and did a little work to the vert today. I pulled the left rear tire and smacked the drum since the brake was stuck the last time I tried moving it, and I pulled the intake plate off since I think I may have to pull the upper intake to flush the fuel system soon. The last time I tried to start it it wouldn't fire, I'm assuming it's because the fuel that's in it is dirt old and has turned to varnish. I'll probably have to drop the tank, empty it, flush the lines, and give it some fresh fuel to get it started again. I'll have to do it relatively soon as I want to move the cars in preparation of getting my garage built, the time is drawing near - I'm hoping to get moving on that project around Black Friday time.... :cross:
 
#50
I pop the cap off and get a good sniff of the fumes hang'n around in there, depending on the reaction, if your eyes cross and your nose burns, your prolly good. You can tell if it spoiled, you'll either toss your cookies or pee your pantaloons.
If it's been years sitting outside in the rust belt, I'd pull the tank.
My junks been sitting in the garage for what? Three years? I'm gonna toss a half gallon in there and see what comes out at the line before the schrader valve.
 
#51
General karthief said:
I pop the cap off and get a good sniff of the fumes hang'n around in there, depending on the reaction, if your eyes cross and your nose burns, your prolly good. You can tell if it spoiled, you'll either toss your cookies or pee your pantaloons.
If it's been years sitting outside in the rust belt, I'd pull the tank.
My junks been sitting in the garage for what? Three years? I'm gonna toss a half gallon in there and see what comes out at the line before the schrader valve.
Click to expand...

Did that a while back, it didn't smell fresh at all. I tried adding a couple gallons of fresh fuel before I tried starting it at that time with no luck, so I think I'm gonna be stuck pulling the tank. On a good note, I siphoned the fuel out a long time ago, so there wasn't much left before adding a couple gallons. The bad part is that that fuel is probably over 5 years old at this point and most likely what is in the lines.
 
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#52
Finally pulled the vert out from the corner to be able to get to it a little easier.

20241027_153833.webp


Once it was out in the open a little more I grabbed my siphon pump and emptied the tank as much as I could. There may have been a gallon that came out if I'm lucky, beyond that the pump was just sucking air. Here's what it looked like.... :puke:

20241027_153256.webp


Now to figure out how I want to go about clearing the lines. What kind of suggestions does anyone have? I was wondering if I'd be able to drop the tank, disconnect the feed line, then use compressed air on the Schrader valve under the hood to blow it out. The problem I have with that idea is what might it do to the injectors?
 
#54
Thanks! Yeah, I suspect the fuel that's still in the lines will look like that. At this point all I really want to do is get it running so I can move it under it's own power. That way I can get it moved under the carport with my Cobra and get them out of the way for contractors to have access to the back side of the garage pad. With any luck I'll have an actual garage sitting there by this time next year! Then, if all goes well, things can really start progressing on the cars.
:cross:
 
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#58
So I've got good news and..... well, good news!

First, I was finally able to separate the fuel lines! I've never been able to get that accomplished before. It took me just a couple minutes to get the return line but the feed line fought me for a good 30 minutes. Once I got those apart I took compressed air and blew the through the fuel rail. Then, after putting between 4-5 gallons of Sta-bil treated fuel in the tank I cycled the fuel pump a bunch of times to try to clear the feed line as much as possible. Once I was satisfied with that I put it all back together and WALLA!! It started up pretty quickly, stumbled for a minute or so then purred like nothing was wrong. :D


View: https://youtu.be/VCGYxfQf04I?si=MrffqPc-QtHxfz_M


So now, after I deal with the Cobra's water pump, I should be able to pull them both off of the garage pad and into the newly refinished carport under their own power. :banana:
 
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#60
I said something about a stuck left rear brake a while back - it's still kinda stuck. I was able to pull the drum off but wasn't able to back off the star adjuster. I tried both 1st and reverse after cleaning the brakes up and taking some steel wool to the drum, it would move in reverse but locked up trying to go forward. So I tried to put that wheel on one of the dollies to drive it forward and the wheel spun anyway sending the dollie rolling behind the car. So I went ahead and moved it anyway....

20241030_191035.webp


The brake pedal was really spongy though, then I found a couple small trails of fluid on the path that I moved the car. I haven't looked around to try to isolate the leak but I'm guessing I have a bad brake hose somewhere. Good thing I don't have any plans of driving this thing for a while! But it's now in the carport and out of the way on the garage pad - next project: the Cobra's water pump and accessory drive. :nice:
 
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