Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
I’ll poke around more but from my brief looks I didn’t see anything close by.
With the sway bar bushings done my list is dwindling down:
- passenger side inner tie rod
- drivers side lower ball joint
- door hinge pins both sides
- inner door weather stripping (looks like you have to remove quite a bit of interior panels to do this right)
- new tires
- bleed brakes
And non-fix” related things
- install Mm RLCAs
- figure out what radio I want to install
With the sway bar bushings done my list is dwindling down:
- passenger side inner tie rod
- drivers side lower ball joint
- door hinge pins both sides
- inner door weather stripping (looks like you have to remove quite a bit of interior panels to do this right)
- new tires
- bleed brakes
And non-fix” related things
- install Mm RLCAs
- figure out what radio I want to install
Anyone have a recommendation for wheel chocks that you can just drive over? As you can spot in my photo I use 2x4’s on each side, drive up and over them and then put it in neutral until I roll back onto them and stop. My ebrake sucks (as mentioned and a job for the future) and I don’t want to leave the car in gear.
Alright i know i jump around a bit and buy stuff before i fix existing things, but with all the ECU threads going on, would it be wise just to send my existing ECU into ECUexchange to have it worked over to make sure its not only good, but good for a long time?
Sorry, just read through a random thread talking about how the ECU can bring up gremlins that are hard to trace/track down. I have no reason to believe anything is wrong with my ECU, more of an 'insurance' policy?
Sorry, just read through a random thread talking about how the ECU can bring up gremlins that are hard to trace/track down. I have no reason to believe anything is wrong with my ECU, more of an 'insurance' policy?
If you have the down-time, and you plan to continue to run the OEM EEC... Send it in.
The EECs are getting not getting any cheaper. Soon it will be less expensive to install a stand-alone.
The EECs are getting not getting any cheaper. Soon it will be less expensive to install a stand-alone.
Down time isn’t an issue, plus it looks like ECUexchange is like a 2 week turnaround time anyways. With the never ending harmonic balancer saga she sat for like over a month, no sweat.If you have the down-time, and you plan to continue to run the OEM EEC... Send it in.
The EECs are getting not getting any cheaper. Soon it will be less expensive to install a stand-alone.
I could actually take that time to do some weather stripping replacements.
The most I ‘think’ I would do with this car in the near future is a Kenne Bell supercharger on the stock engine.
Drover her to work today. Did a little 2nd - 3rd gear pull. At the high RPMs in 2nd my brake light came on? Anyone know what would cause that. When i shifted to 3rd it went away. Definitely need to bleed my brakes too, they kinda suck at the moment. I wouldn't trust them to do a hard stop at this point.
Also need to figure out my tire rubbing in the rear. Pulling into my work parking lot there was a loud rub and when i got out a sliver of tire was just hanging off the side, lol.
Also need to figure out my tire rubbing in the rear. Pulling into my work parking lot there was a loud rub and when i got out a sliver of tire was just hanging off the side, lol.
- Jul 12, 2017
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You know, i didn't think so before... i remember the MC being really full when i got it. I just went out to look and here's what the MC looks like:
It looks lower than i remember it. I wonder if i have a leak somewhere...
Then theres the known issue of the drivers front rotor not making full contact with the pad, as shown here:
I did actually look around the drivers caliper the last time i had the wheel off making clearance. I think the slide pin or whatever its called needs to be greased. It was bone dry so i was thinking maybe the pads wouldn't move even with the pistons trying to push it towards the rotor. Does that make sense?
But damn, i hope i don't have a leak somewhere. It does not 'drip' any fluid on my driveway that i am aware of and i have been under the car frequently lately. I guess i'll focus more on the brake system. I still think it needs to be re-bled. I bought a Motive pressure bleeder so just need to block out some time to do it.
And a full body pic just because:
89ripper
Founding Member
I would think it would just be really noisy with pins not greased up properly. Caliper not doing its thing? Hard to tell from pic but it looks like your reservoir is half full.
Found my issue must have happened on the way to work cause this definitely wasn’t like this sitting in my driveway.
Massive brake fluid leak coming from the rear passenger side. Glad I didn’t drive this home… getting towed now.
Massive brake fluid leak coming from the rear passenger side. Glad I didn’t drive this home… getting towed now.
