Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory

Hell ya! Got the tank back in with the new sending unit and fuel pump assembly (255lph pump). Left the tank sort of loose while I started it up just to make sure all my connections were good and not leaking.

Started right up pretty much… one thing that was new to me was while I was first cranking it over there was a beeping noise coming from inside the cabin I hadn’t heard before. But it stopped eventually.

Either way, let her idle for like 15 minutes giving it a small rev here and there. No leaks.

Tightened up the tank straps a little more. I’m gonna support the tank and loosen the stud nuts later because I didn’t put loctite on them as I’m always in a hurry. But now the car is moveable again, thank god.

Will move it into the garage after our bad weather spell coming the next few days.
 
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Decided to move her into the garage now. Don’t mind how dirty it is it just rained and my car cover isn’t completely waterproof.

IMG_8259.webp
 
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I'm not trying to be too PC here, but you really shouldn't let young children live in your car in the garage... Not only do they start to smell bad which ruins the value of the car, but eventually a Karen is gonna call the cops on you and you could get in big trouble.
 
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I'm not trying to be too PC here, but you really shouldn't let young children live in your car in the garage... Not only do they start to smell bad which ruins the value of the car, but eventually a Karen is gonna call the cops on you and you could get in big trouble.
Hey she makes a 2 hour job take a month then she gets to think about that for a month in the car… eye for an eye around here!
 
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Anyone have any suggestions for Race Ramp alternatives? They are damn expensive. Eventually i'm going to start the supercharger installation, but want the car higher up in the air for an extended period of time. I'll use my ramps for the rear, just looking to support the front under the tires.

I have other things i'll need to do under the car as well, not just the S/C install:

- Motor and transmission mounts
- NGS switch installation
- MM Clutch cable head shield
- Redo the gas tank straps with loctite
- MM RLCA install
- General cleaning of the undercarriage

I do have two jackstands, but would probably want different ones with a safety pin lock (my current ones don't have that feature), so i could go the jackstand route instead i suppose. I do need to replace my drivers side ball joint so obviously supporting the car under the tire won't work for that.
 
Now that the car is in the garage… time to start tackling some of the smaller jobs.

Can I butt crimp the stator wire off the alternator? I bought a new pigtail, I have heat shrink and some braided wire loom, and butt crimps. My current wire is frayed and I’m surprised it actually works… looks like only a couple of the individual wires inside the wire are actually holding it together lol
 
I've always hated butt connectors, yes I have used them.
Now they have some high tech butt connectors available but I still hate them, I'd rather burn my fingers globing wires together with solder.
But that's me, pain is good!! :kmcoff:
 
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That’s a good cheap alternative to the $200 race ramps.
this is a good way to do this IF lumber prices are low or reasonable... When I bought my Race Ramps the price of lumber was " transitory" LOL.. and it would of cost MORE to build em out of lumber.....
 
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Now that the car is in the garage… time to start tackling some of the smaller jobs.

Can I butt crimp the stator wire off the alternator? I bought a new pigtail, I have heat shrink and some braided wire loom, and butt crimps. My current wire is frayed and I’m surprised it actually works… looks like only a couple of the individual wires inside the wire are actually holding it together lol
Cut the plastic off the butt connector, get a crimper that crimps NON insulated connectors, slide a piece of shrink wrap on the wire first before you crimp ....
works well for me.....
If your really anal, slide a correct size piece of shrink wrap then slide a larger piece of shrink wrap over the smaller size then shrink it.... Make the large one a bit longer and you can make some nice looking connections....
 
Cut the plastic off the butt connector, get a crimper that crimps NON insulated connectors, slide a piece of shrink wrap on the wire first before you crimp ....
works well for me.....
If your really anal, slide a correct size piece of shrink wrap then slide a larger piece of shrink wrap over the smaller size then shrink it.... Make the large one a bit longer and you can make some nice looking connections....
Good idea taking the plastic off the connector. That will allow a smaller heat shrink and hopefully a stronger hold. I have a ton of different size heat shrinks so i'll do the two size method you suggested.
 
Probably a dumb question, but i disconnected my battery last night in prep to remove the ECU and send to ECUexchange. Battery will probably be disconnected for quite some time now. Any harm in just leaving it disconnected or should i hook up a battery tender to it? I have a tender that i believe (need to check) shuts off when it reaches a certain voltage. Haven't used it in years so i would need to make sure it still works.
 
A battery 'tender' or sometimes called a 'maintainer' (a good one atleast) will hold a steady voltage, as long as the battery stays constant the 'tender' does nothing but monitor, it will charge a very small amount until a specific voltage is reached then monitors.
A 'trickle' charger is not a 'maintainer / tender' know the difference. :nice:
And yes a fully charged battery disco'd and not exposed to extreme temp changes can last for months.
 
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Now that the car is in the garage… time to start tackling some of the smaller jobs.

Can I butt crimp the stator wire off the alternator? I bought a new pigtail, I have heat shrink and some braided wire loom, and butt crimps. My current wire is frayed and I’m surprised it actually works… looks like only a couple of the individual wires inside the wire are actually holding it together lol
Personally I don't feel crimp on connectors are a reliable connection. I saw you mentioned having some trouble picking up soldering. I'd suggest investing a bit into a decent solder station. It make a world of difference. Get a few different size tips and within 5 minutes you'll be a pro.

May as well face it you're gonna be repairing and adding in wiring for as long as you have the car. Get a nice solder setup. They aren't really that much. A Weller WE1010NA is all you'll ever need.

Congrats on getting the fuel tank finished up.