Anyone Run These Front Control Arms

Just looked it up on their website unfortunately they list them as not suitable for coil -overs.
Oh well, for now just going to rebuild my fca's and install new strut/spring package.
You'll get this sorted out and with the right questions being asked and lots of research you'll piece together a good performing and functional car over time. Maximum Motorsports has the best coil overs because they build their kits to specific struts and the sleeves fit like a glove. The one size fits all coil over kits will rattle and annoy you to the point of aiming your car at a ditch.
 
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You probably are better off rebuilding your stock ones. You can run offset A-arm bushings to improve the handling. It's pretty hard to beat the factory stamped steel for strength. Changing bushings is crap work though.

Kurt
which is why when I get mine off in a few days if the bushings and ball joint are shot I might just buy new. Rock Auto has Skp for 47 each ( 111 shipped) but not sure I want to go with that brand. LMR has some, not sure what brand but says OE style bushings and shipped after my discount would be $184.

I'll see if I can find a video of swapping the bushings as I'm sure they'll have to be pressed in
 
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All right you guys convinced me I cancelled the BMR arms. I must have been in a tryptophan comma from the turkey when I looked at those.
At this point I'm going to rebuild my stock arms with some Moog ball joints and upgraded bushings.
Out of curiosity does anyone know If you can run coil overs with the Koni str-t (orange) struts?
Did you swap the bushings yourself?
 
$50 for both? Did you change the balljoint as well?
My " old school " mechanic place is pretty reasonable price wise.... I did the Balljoints, that was easy compared to the " days " I had trying to get the bushings in....
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Swapped the bushings and ball joints out on the stock control arms years ago with a ball joint press. Had to remove the old bushings using a drill bit to remove the rubber inner part and then a cold steel chisel and BFH to collapse the shell of the bushings. Used some 400 grit to clean up the mating surfaces where the bushings pressed into the control arms and used the ball joint press to install them.

Ball joint removal and install was fairly easy.

Machine shop is a helluva lot easier if you have the coin.
 
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My " old school " mechanic place is pretty reasonable price wise.... I did the Balljoints, that was easy compared to the " days " I had trying to get the bushings in....
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I see I see. Well i'll probably just go ahead and buy since just found out my local machine shop (which I believe he's the only one even close to me or close enough), he's retired now I guess. Also by the time I buy the bushings, ball joint and have them installed I'm sure it'll be at or near the $159 from Rock auto.
 
Swapped the bushings and ball joints out on the stock control arms years ago with a ball joint press. Had to remove the old bushings using a drill bit to remove the rubber inner part and then a cold steel chisel and BFH to collapse the shell of the bushings. Used some 400 grit to clean up the mating surfaces where the bushings pressed into the control arms and used the ball joint press to install them.

Ball joint removal and install was fairly easy.

Machine shop is a helluva lot easier if you have the coin.
yeah like I told Limp I just found out my machine shop is now closed and not maybe there's one an hour ish from me now vs 15 m. Also just priced the ball joints and seems about 70 for both as well as about 60 for the bushings. Even if I got them pressed in for $50 as limp got and not sure how long ago that was lol, I think the $159 shipped from Rock Auto is likely calling my name.....

:poo: I haven't gotten them off yet I'm finishing up the rear today or tomorrow after freshing up the differential with bushings, paint, pinion seal, and a brake kit with drilled ans slotted rotors. I should be on to the front in a few days and gotta inspect to see how everythign looks. I suspect they'll likely need attention though.
 
I see I see. Well i'll probably just go ahead and buy since just found out my local machine shop (which I believe he's the only one even close to me or close enough), he's retired now I guess. Also by the time I buy the bushings, ball joint and have them installed I'm sure it'll be at or near the $159 from Rock auto.
Just to clarify, the $50 was labor only.... I supplied all parts.....
I felt my original A arms were probably BETTER than some new chinesium ones which was one of the reasons I used them...
 
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Just to clarify, the $50 was labor only.... I supplied all parts.....
I felt my original A arms were probably BETTER than some new chinesium ones which was one of the reasons I used them...
i definitely took that as $50 for labor only lol. Yeah I guess for me depending on how they look upon inspection and also folks saying they got Moog bushings before but the place in China makes Moog for moog and also moog for other places so they noticed the quality was different IIRC. So i guess might be taking a chance either way on even buying moog bushings as to which one you'll get potentialy if that's true...
 
i definitely took that as $50 for labor only lol. Yeah I guess for me depending on how they look upon inspection and also folks saying they got Moog bushings before but the place in China makes Moog for moog and also moog for other places so they noticed the quality was different IIRC. So i guess might be taking a chance either way on even buying moog bushings as to which one you'll get potentialy if that's true...
I am not talking about just the bushings, I was speaking for the entire arm.... I can't say this for sure, but possibly thinner wall thickness and I knew that my old ones would " absolutely for sure " fit back on the K member...
 
I am not talking about just the bushings, I was speaking for the entire arm.... I can't say this for sure, but possibly thinner wall thickness and I knew that my old ones would " absolutely for sure " fit back on the K member...
Yes I understand that you were talking about the arm itself
 
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I pulled my front control arms years back,I drilled out the rubber ,wire wheeled the inside,and put prothane bushings in with that gorilla snot grease.
Got a loaner ball joint tool from oh oh O'Reilly's and in no time put those suckers back on. My car handles much better in the twisties.
It ain't that hard to do. Get er done.
 
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I pulled my front control arms years back,I drilled out the rubber ,wire wheeled the inside,and put prothane bushings in with that gorilla snot grease.
Got a loaner ball joint tool from oh oh O'Reilly's and in no time put those suckers back on. My car handles much better in the twisties.
It ain't that hard to do. Get er done.
I wonder if prothane bushings in the front arms are best over the rubber just like with the differential and the uppers for it. Maximum Motorsports recommends the stock rubbers for the upper arms to axle and actually even the OEM arms too. Sure if I were to put in prothane bushings and do them myself I could save some money versus the 159 shipped from RockAuto of the Moog arms that comes with the bushings and the ball joint. But if rubbers are better then I'm better served definitely with the RockAuto ones.
 
Well they have been in my stang for a few years now and I can say they held.up.great
I daily my car and just turned 316,000 miles so I could tell pretty quickly if some parts don't work.
Its you car and only you know how much you want to do in relation to how much you are really gonna drive it.
 
Well they have been in my stang for a few years now and I can say they held.up.great
I daily my car and just turned 316,000 miles so I could tell pretty quickly if some parts don't work.
Its you car and only you know how much you want to do in relation to how much you are really gonna drive it.
Gotcha. Yeah I got two other ones and I still want a fox one day LOL. None of them gets driven really during the week as I also got two trucks. I'm going to call MM tomorrow though I want to see what they say in regards to the front bushings
 
So on Rock Auto the Moog K8289 bushing set is $18.22 a side. I used to run Moog ball joints but they moved manufacturing overseas and the quality has nose dived. TRW’s are made in Spain the last time I looked and are good quality.


So call it $100-$125 in parts and your control arms which are most likely higher quality stampings and the parts you put in them will most likely be better than the ones you buy assembled.

Best complete control arms were the M-3075-A’s but they are long out of production.
 
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I have had problems with using urethane bushings in anything that twists.... Too many squeaks.... Just my opinion.... I used stock rubber in my A Arms but urethane everywhere else...
 
I have had problems with using urethane bushings in anything that twists.... Too many squeaks.... Just my opinion.... I used stock rubber in my A Arms but urethane everywhere else...
Mm recommends stock rubber bushings in the axle housing as well as well as they recommend especially for a street car OEM arms upper arms. I want to call them tomorrow on their recommendations for the front arms