Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory

[gkomo]

I should probably create a separate "Paxton 1220SL Install" thread after this is all said and done. There is like zero to nil info on installing the Paxton unit. I get it that its basically the Vortech V3 install, but even that I can't find too many threads on start to finish installations (and LMR videos just brush past crucial steps). I feel like some of the things i've gone through would be normal in anyones installation, and beneficial to have it all documented.

 

[gkomo]

Ugh, latest issue. I’m finding out either how bad fitment is on this kit or just that things are so freakin tight. I finally got the filter assembly in. It’s so tight the filter cover literally touches the head unit. So I’m not sure what happens when the engine shakes just during idle or even getting on it.




Then, the next step is to put the 90 degree elbow on the intake of the head unit, and I just don’t see how it will fit without moving the fuel rails. There is a bracket holding them down… I think I’ll have to remove that? And let the hardlines kind of ‘hang’ there pushed over a bit?







Like from a measurement perspective I should have less than 1/4 of free space, but that’s once you get the elbow on and over the inlet lip. BUT TO GET IT ON I need like 3” of space.

 

[Noobz347]

I've been watching you do this in stages and I have a suggestion (if it applies):

Loosen up [everything] on the accessory drive that's not a total PITA to get to. That little bit of [loose] wiggle room can be a miracle for getting things into position.

It looks like you've been aligning and tightening as you go.

 

[gkomo]

I've been watching you do this in stages and I have a suggestion (if it applies):

Loosen up [everything] on the accessory drive that's not a total PITA to get to. That little bit of [loose] wiggle room can be a miracle for getting things into position.

It looks like you've been aligning and tightening as you go.

I see what you’re saying. Since I’ve never done this before and my overall mechanical skills are somewhat on the novice side, I’ve just been following the installation instructions provided, which go in “Phases” as they even break each one out.

I’m an Engineer-ish by trade so my mind thinks if there are instructions I should follow them and they should be correct. I used to write procedures as part of my old job, and they had to be thorough and correct, lol. I’m quickly learning that’s not the case.

I will say the accessory assembly is not easy to get to at this point in the process. Like the filter assembly that I finally got in, I will fiddle with it more and get it figured out.

 

[Noobz347]

Loosen what you can get to and what you know you'll be able to get to again.

Even the bolts holding the SC in-place as well as the bracket(s).

A little give here, a little take there... you know...

 

[Noobz347]

I'm the opposite BTW.

I've spent 2 careers making y'alls bull fit and work in both, the aircraft and computer industries.

My specialty is "integration" (no-kidding, that's what it's called).

 

[gkomo]

I'm the opposite BTW.

I've spent 2 careers making y'alls bull fit and work in both, the aircraft and computer industries.

My specialty is "integration" (no-kidding, that's what it's called).

Ya I was a cybersecurity engineer for General Atomics, which makes UAVs for the military and other customers, which was all about figuring out the best cyber footprint then writing procedures to make it repeatable. Don’t do that now, but I do manage a team of engineers (not cybersecurity) for a defense contractor. I would have been fired for producing instructions to the caliber of the Paxton ones!

 

[gkomo]

Loosen what you can get to and what you know you'll be able to get to again.

Even the bolts holding the SC in-place as well as the bracket(s).

A little give here, a little take there... you know...

Actually I think you nailed it, I can loosen just the supercharger head unit (5 easily accessible bolts), remove the filter assembly to give me room to shift the entire head unit forward, put the elbow on the tighten it back down.

No need to mess with the accessory bracket that way.

Good thinking!

 

[Noobz347]

Ya I was a cybersecurity engineer for General Atomics, which makes UAVs for the military and other customers, which was all about figuring out the best cyber footprint then writing procedures to make it repeatable.

I tuned you all's "doctor writing" into maintenance procedures.

 

[gkomo]

Well I at least know why the filter cover is hitting the head unit, i can't run those wire bundles in that bottom 'channel' as the filter housing has a provision that fits in there perfectly. So, i'm either going to have to move those wire bundles just right outside that channel (inward toward center of engine bay), or cut little cutouts in the filter cover to accommodate those wire bundles. I'm thinking option 1 will be easier. THEN, i can lower the filter assembly enough to not hit that tiny corner of the head unit. Hopefully will get that done tonight, as well as get that elbow on the supercharger inlet.

 

[revcor]

Well I at least know why the filter cover is hitting the head unit, i can't run those wire bundles in that bottom 'channel' as the filter housing has a provision that fits in there perfectly. So, i'm either going to have to move those wire bundles just right outside that channel (inward toward center of engine bay), or cut little cutouts in the filter cover to accommodate those wire bundles. I'm thinking option 1 will be easier. THEN, i can lower the filter assembly enough to not hit that tiny corner of the head unit. Hopefully will get that done tonight, as well as get that elbow on the supercharger inlet.

I’m glad to see someone else is running into all the same issues I had lol. The wire bundle keeping the filter cover from fitting nicely was annoying, but I believe I just moved the cover a half inch back so there was a gap for the wire bundle to come out. I figured it would have a negligible impact on intake air temps.

The fuel hard line positioning bugged me as long as I owned that car though. They naturally came up through a space which was now occupied by the plastic elbow, so the elbow pushed them off to the side a bit. Not far enough to damage the lines, but I hated looking at it and knowing it was like that.

I did notice in your photos your head unit seems much closer to the filter cover than mine was. I’ll see if I have pictures of mine

 

[gkomo]

Got the filter assembly in, I was right that it was just those wires taking up space in the channel that the filter cover is supposed to be in. With those out of the way the filter cover can sit lower and now doesn’t hit the head unit (still super close tho). This is how I did the wiring:




I actually added one more tie mount and tie wrap closer to the radiator but once I test fit it and it worked I didn’t want to take it back out to take a photo.




Here’s a photo of the new clearance. But wait there’s more! As you can see my new problem. There is no way my MAF connector will reach the MAF, I took off the relay and tried to reroute the cable, no chance. Do they make MAF connector extensions?

Anywho, a problem to solve for another day. Got back to the inlet elbow, it’s 100% the fuel hardline that is preventing the elbow from going on. I am so close, but just need a little more clearance, this is as far as I could get it using all my strength:




It’s like on good on the top, but on the backside and bottom it’s at least an 1/8” off. You can see my mirror there where I’m forcing it on while watching what’s going on the backside. Wouldn’t budge. One thing that worked a little better was putting the elbow down in from above (with the open end pointing up), then twisting it towards the passenger fender as you’re putting it on the head unit. The other pain in the but is the A/C line. It’s like not preventing anything, but it’s definitely in the way.

So here’s where I quit tonight:




I’m going to remove it, figure out the fuel line to get that out of the way then try again. I gave up out of frustration but I couldn’t even get the fuel line out of the bracket holder. There’s just no room to do anything.

Oh and @Noobz347 i was wrong and can’t just loosen the head unit and bring it forward because it bolts to the other wrong side of the accessory bracket. I really don’t want to mess with the accessory bracket so I’m going to go the fuel line moving out of the way route.

 

[gkomo]

I’m glad to see someone else is running into all the same issues I had lol. The wire bundle keeping the filter cover from fitting nicely was annoying, but I believe I just moved the cover a half inch back so there was a gap for the wire bundle to come out. I figured it would have a negligible impact on intake air temps.

The fuel hard line positioning bugged me as long as I owned that car though. They naturally came up through a space which was now occupied by the plastic elbow, so the elbow pushed them off to the side a bit. Not far enough to damage the lines, but I hated looking at it and knowing it was like that.

I did notice in your photos your head unit seems much closer to the filter cover than mine was. I’ll see if I have pictures of mine

Ya the wire bundling issue I should’ve know just by looking at the filter cover. Lesson learned and was a fairly easy fix.

The fuel lines are the biggest issue currently. I tried bending the bracket towards the headers, but no luck with the tools I have. Once I disconnect it so the bracket isn’t actually holding it I think it will work.

Since you cut off the inside lip on your cover, that probably gave you an extra 1/2” to play with to move it forward more than mine. Right now my filter, although you can’t see if from the photos, is basically touching the front metal support behind the headlight, so I literally can’t move it forward anymore.

What a pain, I thought I was on the home stretch!

 

[gkomo]

Do they make MAF extensions?

Yes they do, picked one up from Anderson performance.

 

[gkomo]

Was starting to think about gauges for this endeavor. I was reading reviews and it sounds like the AEM X-Series Wideband Air To Fuel Gauge - 2 1/16" is a top pick. In addition i was going to add the AutoMeter Ultra-Lite Vacuum Boost Gauge - 2 1/16" as well. Are these good choices?

Is a dual A-Pillar pod a good choice? I wasn't really wanting to drill into my existing OEM A-Pillar piece, any chance they would stay with just some double sided tape or something? Or spring for LMRs entire replacement A-Pillar dual gauge pod piece?

Dumb plan? any other gauges i should be putting as priority over those two?

 

[Noobz347]

The only criteria that I had for my AFR gauge is that it is analog and matches my other Kenne Bell gauges, (Boost/Vac, Fuel Pressure).

Mine is fed by my LM-1. Some, not all, AFR setups have a port for feeding a gauge besides their own.

 

[gkomo]

The AEM-X AFR gauge has both a dial-ish and digital readout. Can't say for certain if its truly analog though.

I would think these two are a good start, then get a water temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure gauge down the road?

Edit: Ended up buying the two i listed

 

[gkomo]

Supercharger install is done!

Got the fuel feed hardline out of the little bracket and that was it, elbow was so easy to get on with that out of the way. One thing I had to do is route the A/C hose in between the inlet and discharge piping. It has wiggle room so not pinching anything and it’s not bent all weirdly:





Then put the line from the oil fill tube to airbox:



From there it was just putting the discharge tube on:





Which basically wraps up the install.

I found the right hex head bit to put the breather on the head unit as well.

I will say, the flex tube from air filter to inlet elbow was a pain to get on… some trial and error and ended up loosening the elbow and pointing it upwards, putting the flex tube on that end then twisting it back down toward the filter assembly.

Now it’s just go through everything in the instructions again to make sure I didn’t miss anything, drain remaining coolant and replace the lower radiator hose, fill and burp coolant… then start her up!

 

[bird_dog0347]

Ya I was a cybersecurity engineer for General Atomics, which makes UAVs for the military and other customers, which was all about figuring out the best cyber footprint then writing procedures to make it repeatable. Don’t do that now, but I do manage a team of engineers (not cybersecurity) for a defense contractor. I would have been fired for producing instructions to the caliber of the Paxton ones!

I've been in IT specializing in Network for 25 years, now I'm at the Architect level and I leave my designs at a high enough level there is room for the engineers who implement them to make necessary adjustments as needed so I feel your pain when it is down to the level of actually doing the work and the instructions suck.

 

[gkomo]

got the remaining coolant out of the lower radiator hose, tbh that hose looked fine inside and out. Ended up keeping it on and have the replacement already if I decide to change it. What I did order is a new radiator cap, the one on the car was pretty rusty looking. I’m thinking sometime in the near future a new radiator will be in order. I couldn’t really see but if the cap was as rusty as it was, I can only assume the radiator isn’t much better. Never had any cooling issues, but still gross. So waiting on the cap, and the MAF extension harness before firing her up.