Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
What’s your guys opinion on this? I ordered a remanufactured R&P from RockAuto specifically the SPR-ZK which is a 2002-2004 GT/Mach1. I received a R&P with the code SPR-SJ on it, which is for a 1999-2001 GT/Bullitt, per MM’s page:
Worth complaining about it or no?
Had to sand down the code… only part of the rack that had an abundance of coating over it so you couldn’t see the “SJ” (like it was being hidden).
Again, I’m not like racing this thing… would I even be able to tell a difference? If not I’ll just keep this one.
Worth complaining about it or no?
Had to sand down the code… only part of the rack that had an abundance of coating over it so you couldn’t see the “SJ” (like it was being hidden).
Again, I’m not like racing this thing… would I even be able to tell a difference? If not I’ll just keep this one.
Side note, I bought a TFI tester someone linked somewhere around here and tested my spare Motorcraft TFI module… dead. Made sure my 9v battery was good, plugged and unplugged the tester numerous times, could never get the test light to light up.
That tester is not very good. The best test is the multimeter test. I'll post the screenshot I have of it from a Ford Service Manual.
Quoting this message, but for anyone... whats a good way to measure clearance between my S/C head unit and the underside of the hood with the hood closed? The louvers where i currently have them positioned actually look to sit right above the head unit in the front so i am now getting a little concerned with clearance in that area. I have playdoh (kids) i could mush up and set on top of the head unit, close the hood then measure the 'smoosh' of playdoh?
The louvers basically measure 1" down from the flat border plate. I did measure from the bottom of the hood to the bottom of the support structure and its like basically 1" as well. With the louvers sitting on TOP of the hood (and my measurements from the bottom of the hood), i may be fine as that buys me a few millimeters of extra clearance, but it will be close.
I also looked more closely at where my cut lines are and its going to be suuuuper close to the support structure going down the cowl side (for/aft). I may just make my cuts right along the support structure so i don't have to cut any of that away, which MAY move my louvers outward ever so slightly.
I think i'll just keep this rack. I was researching a little more and came across a thread on SVTperformance where someone asked MM about them. MM's response (per this SVTperformance thread) was:What’s your guys opinion on this? I ordered a remanufactured R&P from RockAuto specifically the SPR-ZK which is a 2002-2004 GT/Mach1. I received a R&P with the code SPR-SJ on it, which is for a 1999-2001 GT/Bullitt, per MM’s page:
Worth complaining about it or no?
Had to sand down the code… only part of the rack that had an abundance of coating over it so you couldn’t see the “SJ” (like it was being hidden).
Again, I’m not like racing this thing… would I even be able to tell a difference? If not I’ll just keep this one.
The information below is something which I’ve been able to confirm, but haven’t had the chance to change on the MM website yet.
With the lone exception of the 2000 Mustang Cobra R rack:
Group 1: All 1999-2004 Mustang racks have the same valving.
Group 2: All 1996-98 Mustang racks have the same valving.
Group 3: All 1994-95 Mustang racks have the same valving.
The differences in SPR codes from the different racks within the ABOVE groups is due to differences which don’t matter to us, such as the thickness of the steering rack limiter clips. Within each group, the hydraulic valving is the same. In general, the higher the group number, the better the steering feel. Any SN95 steering rack will be a significant improvement over any Fox steering rack.
Are the clamps that hold on the boots single use? I’ll need to take those off to replace the inner tie rods just wondering if I need to buy new clamps, or use a different kind of clamp:
That gravity table you have is freaking amazing! harbor Freight? 
alright I know I’ve kind of rapid fired a bunch of questions today, but any tips to get the inner tie rods off? They won’t budge.
Here’s where I’m at. The Jack handle is going through the mounting holes, and I stand on it to keep the rack from just moving, I have my biggest adjustable wrench on the tie rod and I’m trying my hardest to get it off, but can’t. Any suggestions are welcome:
So instead of that I did my playdoh thing to check clearance. Made a ball like over 2” thick, stuck it on top of the head unit and shut the hood. Never even touched the playdoh so I think I should be good on clearance for the louvers.
Here’s where I’m at. The Jack handle is going through the mounting holes, and I stand on it to keep the rack from just moving, I have my biggest adjustable wrench on the tie rod and I’m trying my hardest to get it off, but can’t. Any suggestions are welcome:
So instead of that I did my playdoh thing to check clearance. Made a ball like over 2” thick, stuck it on top of the head unit and shut the hood. Never even touched the playdoh so I think I should be good on clearance for the louvers.
haha, oh no there is a pile of kids junk and a bike behind that table. Gotta make due with the little space i have.
edit: brain fart... i see now what the fuss is about. Clever clever, went right over my head. Picture orientation issue!
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Ok i may have missed a step. Do i need two adjustable wrenches? One to hold the thing sticking out of the steering rack and another to loosen the inner tie rod? If thats the case it may be easier because i think i have an issue with leverage doing it as the above picture shows. I also don't see any pin or set screw in this 'new edge' tie rod i'm trying to replace, so i don't think thats stopping me.alright I know I’ve kind of rapid fired a bunch of questions today, but any tips to get the inner tie rods off? They won’t budge.
Here’s where I’m at. The Jack handle is going through the mounting holes, and I stand on it to keep the rack from just moving, I have my biggest adjustable wrench on the tie rod and I’m trying my hardest to get it off, but can’t. Any suggestions are welcome:
So instead of that I did my playdoh thing to check clearance. Made a ball like over 2” thick, stuck it on top of the head unit and shut the hood. Never even touched the playdoh so I think I should be good on clearance for the louvers.
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Sweet thanks, pretty much looks like I just need more leverage to break it loose. It’s harder with the rack out of the car it seems because the rack just wants to move when I’m putting pressure on the ITR. Looks like I need a breaker tube to go over my adjustable wrench (I also have a huge pipe wrench I could try).
Edit: I tried again a different way, was able to put a lot more force on the wrench. Can I damage the rack by putting too much force on it? I’m assuming there are gears of some kind inside the rack that’s keeping it from spinning… don’t want to jack those up.
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Phew, got them off finally. This was my contraption to get it done:
Jack handle #1 through the mounting hole under the car tire to keep the rack from moving. Channel locks with Jack handle #2 for added leverage. Gripped channel locks with one hand to keep them tight, held Jack handle with other hand and pushed off the car with my body to get them loose.
Something was inside the inner tie rods keeping them on:
Hard to see but there was like white powder all over the threads.
Anyways, Fox inner tie rods are now on:
Before I put the boots on, do I need to tap in those pins that come with the Fox inner tie rods? Wasn’t sure since this is a New Edge rack if there are places for those pins to seat into or not.
Jack handle #1 through the mounting hole under the car tire to keep the rack from moving. Channel locks with Jack handle #2 for added leverage. Gripped channel locks with one hand to keep them tight, held Jack handle with other hand and pushed off the car with my body to get them loose.
Something was inside the inner tie rods keeping them on:
Hard to see but there was like white powder all over the threads.
Anyways, Fox inner tie rods are now on:
Before I put the boots on, do I need to tap in those pins that come with the Fox inner tie rods? Wasn’t sure since this is a New Edge rack if there are places for those pins to seat into or not.
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