Brake & Suspension Rebuild

[DuluthFoxbody]

My 88 GT needs some work...namely front brakes for sure, rear drum rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea, and some rear shocks. And then of course the ball joints are in rough shape. Since I need to address the ball joints and the rear shocks anyway, I was thinking of refreshing some of the suspension. I would eventually like to do MM rear lower control arms, sway bars, etc. but those may be for a later time. May or may not do caster/camber plates right now.

Anyway, I've seen a ton of different coil spring choices out there and they all seem to be lowering springs...most seem to be a decent amount of lowering. I definitely don't want to slam the car or have it too low. I think the only springs I've seen that are relatively stock height are the Moog ones and lowering springs that aren't too low seem to be the Ford B & C springs. I was kind of leaning towards the Ford C springs, but I've heard the MM road and track springs are good (albeit lower). I'm not racing the car, but I do like to have a bit of fun and throw it around turns. Also, the hatchback has a surprisingly decent amount of room, so I like to carry band equipment at times. I do have an F150 for that, but parking that in downtown Atlanta and squeezing in tight alleyways is a pain. So something that can withstand a bit of weight is good.

I'm considering two options (or a variation thereof):

1) Go slow and retain the stock springs for now and maybe order a set of KYB or something relatively OE and not too expensive for the rear. Focus on the front disc brakes and rear drum brake rebuild and get it stopping. Maybe some Timken wheel bearings. Give it some time and see how it goes. A consideration is whether not those ball joints are shot or can still be driven on for a bit. Afterwards, save towards a nice set of springs and better struts/shocks all the way around (maybe front coilover), some MM lower rear control arms, rebuilt front lower control arms with new ball joints, or maybe some MM tubular a-arms with coilovers. Eventually other stuff like sway bars, etc.

2) Since I need to replace the ball joints and also do the rear shocks, go ahead and order a nice set of decent coil springs with a mild lower, some Bilstein struts/shocks, polyurethane isolation mounts (or is rubber better?), all the brake stuff, and rebuild the front control arms with ball joints. This knocks a lot of it out at once and the Bilsteins might be a nice ride, but I doubt I would be doing coilovers and tubular a-arms anytime soon. But I doubt I really need coilovers and tubular a-arms.

Anyone have experience as to a solid choice for springs that aren't too low might be? Has anyone used the Bilsteins with the Ford C springs and have thoughts? My instinct has been to just fix what needs to be fixed and save for future work. But it sure would be nice not to have to pull everything off again for a while.

 

[AeroCoupe]

So I am a buy once cry once project guy. So hoard parts until you are ready to do the project. It will save time and money in the long run.

Front Suspension:
I would rebuild the stock front control arms with MOOG bushings and some good low friction ball joints. Holstein struts and your choice of springs (I really liked the H&R Super Sports when I had them). Install some urethane sway bar bushings and new sway bar end links with urethane bushings.

The car will lower a minimum of 1” so now is the time for CC plates and just get the MM pieces. They are pricey but it’s a one and done.

Rear Suspension:
MM lowers and new stock upper control arms. Get new MOOG bushings for for the uppers that replace the ones in the rear end. MM makes a tool to replace them but you are only a brake line from dropping g the rear end so just do that and replacing them is 100 times easier. Get new Bilstein shocks and that could wrap it up.

Scope creep warning. While you have the rear end out rebuild the trac lok with new clutches.

You only need front wheel bearings if you need them. Typically they just need the old grease removed, repack them with good wheel bearing grease, and a new seal for the back bearing.

If you do the brakes buy new front soft lines and the rear soft line. They have a tendency to swell internally when they are old.

 

[DuluthFoxbody]

Makes sense. Since you mentioned low friction ball joints, I see QA1 has some and of course MM. Although the MM ball joints mention reducing the diameter in the a-arm. I wonder if that means just trying to bend the metal somehow? I'm sure the H&R Super Sports are a great spring but probably a bit too steep of a drop for me. I've seen the Ford B and C springs have less lowering...I know the B springs are progressive and C are linear, but I'm not sure if the Bilstein B6's are well matched for the linear Ford spring rate. I also see some sales for Koni going on and I recall Warhorse mentioning those in some posts.

Yeah, good call on the brake lines, I'm going to get those and bite the bullet on the MM CC plates.

I'm definitely under 400rhwp and not sure what the future holds, but might eventually do GT40 intake/heads and/or a cam. Do you think the MM Sport rear control arms (non or the adjustable ones) are the way to go? Heavy Duty might be extra insurance, but probably overkill. I see where the upper control arms are recommended to be the new rubber bushings, so that's fine.

I know these are wildly different cars, but a long time ago I had a '93 Miata and loved how that handled around the curves at higher speeds. I'm not sure how the Mustang is going to line up when it's all said and done, but hoping to recapture some of that feel.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[nickyb]

I should have "one and done" like aero said but I first just replaced rotors,drums,wheel cylinders,pads,shoes,and brake lines. Also kyb struts and shocks.
Then I shopped slowly and wisely for the cobra brake upgrade, I got everything (including rims and tires) for under $1800. So choose carefully as your wallet allows.

 

[gkomo]

It would cost more upfront, but if you get the adjustable MM (or other brand) LCAs you can fine tune your rear ride height that way?

 

[DuluthFoxbody]

I should have "one and done" like aero said but I first just replaced rotors,drums,wheel cylinders,pads,shoes,and brake lines. Also kyb struts and shocks.
Then I shopped slowly and wisely for the cobra brake upgrade, I got everything (including rims and tires) for under $1800. So choose carefully as your wallet allows.

Are you still running the KYB's now? What's your impression of them?

 

[nickyb]

Yeah still.got them on, I'm looking to do coil overs in the near future so il.get some adjustable ones as I already have caster camber plates.
The KYB s are like stock not an upgrade.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I went straight to the heavy duty MM LCA’s but it was to cover whatever I threw at it later down the road. A lot of people have the ones that allow you to adjust the ride height and they work well.

 

[ustacould]

Hey welcome. I had to go back and read your history . Nice car doesn't look beat on. I got to rescue a stock '92 a few years ago and the first thing to betray me was the brakes! They were sorry from the factory and time hasn't helped. I got Power stop all around and rebuilt calipers and wheel cylinders from NAPA very affordable and genuine Ford castings. Replaced all 3 flexible lines with braided stainless from NPD catalog, complete with mounting brackets. I used a hand vacuum pump and some thin flexible tubing to pull most of the gunk from the brake resivore, then bled about 2 quarts of fluid thru the lines until it was all clear. You may not need all that. But with that and new tires , damn car felt like a Porsche! Could use all 220 horse power!
Now, there are a lot of really experienced and helpful people on this site and I ain't one of them. But "scope creep" is a real thing - read any build thread. Enjoy!

 

[Rdub6]

Here’s a visual on the Eibach Pro Kit springs. (Everybody likes pictures)…….. I think it advertised a 1” drop.

I also used the adjustable rear lower control arms from MM…… if for nothing else, it gives the ability to get the back of the car perfectly level. My eye notices the slightest lean, so my OCD needed the adjustability.

Hope this helps.