Media

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The factory wiring for the woofer cannot be used because the factory wiring requires the factory amp. Instead, I used the factory tweeter wire.
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After the speakers and cross overs were mounted the door was screwed shut for concealment.
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The cross overs were embedded in the baffle. I cut out a panel and mounted brass hinges for easy access after installation. I used the tweeter factory wire for the input as they were not linked to the factory amp.
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After the magnet was removed, I could use the mounting hardware that came with the tweeters.
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Notice that the woofer and tweeter are in the same location as the stock units. the new tweeters needed to use the stock mounting bracket to fit. Had to cut out the speaker and knock out the magnet.
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Left the blind on the passenger side alone and left the stock screws in place in case I need them in the future.
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Location of the new amplifier. Needed to cut the blind off to allow access to the input after installation.
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The wiring harness had all of the connectors attached so it was easy to attach wires once the speaker baffle was reinstalled.
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I prefabricated the wire harness so I only had to pull wires once.
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Linear Power - Two 2075's and two 2250's. These are absolutely some of the best car audio amplifiers on the planet!!
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Mustang_Sound_7.jpg

Linear Power - Two 2075's and two 2250's. These are absolutely some of the best car audio amplifiers on the planet!!
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Mustang_Sound_6.jpg

New Updates: Building ported enclosure for 4 18's. - Linear Power prototypes. 3.6 cu. ft. per 18, port tuned to 27 hz.
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Mustang_Sound_1.jpg

New Updates: Building ported enclosure for 4 18's. - Linear Power prototypes.
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Mustang_Sound_3.jpg

New Updates: Building ported enclosure for 4 18's.
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Mustang_Sound_5.jpg

New Updates: Building ported enclosure for 4 18's.
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Mustang_Sound_4.jpg

New Updates: Building ported enclosure for 4 18's.
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