Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
Maybe these GM clips would fit with some modification?
I just thought of something...
Hey @95steedamustang , have you ever had to source these clips?
Hey @95steedamustang , have you ever had to source these clips?
Progress Thread Post in thread 'Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory'
These are the closest I could find for you…. They look on-point…
lolI need a, "Yoo Da FkN Man" smiley.
I hope that helps…. Took a while to find. They look close… expensive for a clip. Wish I had one for him…
I was hunting and coming up with garbage. Komo was probably coming up with similar garbage.
It always helps to have a team of hunters and extra eyes which is great about StangNet. We like solving problems, helping each other, and finding sources for hard-to-find odd parts and things…I was hunting and coming up with garbage. Komo was probably coming up with similar garbage.
I put a thread in tech for this so maybe we at least have the search terms to find them again.
The number for that part in the Shop Manual is:
03552 - Windshield Upper Garnish Moulding Retainer - 3 Req'd
I do not see them anywhere. I wonder if they have been replaced by something else?
Excellent work from the stangnet community! Thank you!
Geezus those are some expensive clips. I’ll put a little effort into researching alternates then, if no luck, bite the bullet and buy that $25 eBay one if needed. Sucks but looks like my bad for breaking it.
Eh, I’m impatient, bought the one @91AOD5.0LX linked from eBay… $24 shipped. Crazy for a clip but ChatGPT nor myself could find it anywhere for less.
So I got the gauges wired in with proper extensions down to the kick panel area. First tested each gauge with a 9volt battery, boost gauge light came on, AFR gauge turned on. Then I got them hardwired with connectors and the like, combining both gauge power wires into one female terminal and each ground with its own ring terminal and again tested with a 9 volt battery, all good. Then, did my ‘final’ wiring and used an add a fuse with a small male terminal extension and put it on Fuse #4 since I saw that’s for the head lamps and what not. Again, gauges all work, however they are always on, doesn’t matter if the key is in or not. (Edit: makes sense I believe this circuit would be constant power and it’s the actual headlight switch that turns on the headlights) - again electrical is not my strong suit!
So, looking for a different fuse to use, any suggestions? I was thinking fuse #11 which is the radio?
So, looking for a different fuse to use, any suggestions? I was thinking fuse #11 which is the radio?
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I ended up switching the add-a-fuse to the radio fuse. Gauge lights still come on just when the key is on. Fine by me I suppose, for now.
Next up was running the vacuum line from the boost gauge through the firewall. Went through I think the main engine harness grommet. This was a royal pain in the ass and took me many many tries to not have the line separate from my fishing tool (coat hangar). Was hoping to hook it all up but it took so long getting it through I ran out of time. Here’s where I left it:
It’s the white line there. Connecting it to the B/R vacuum line should be a 20 minute job. I left a little slack under the dash for oopsies, which with me, I’m sure will be needed.
For the wide band, I almost want to go through the floor instead of the firewall. I may drill and put a grommet for that cause I have to get an entire connector through.
Next up was running the vacuum line from the boost gauge through the firewall. Went through I think the main engine harness grommet. This was a royal pain in the ass and took me many many tries to not have the line separate from my fishing tool (coat hangar). Was hoping to hook it all up but it took so long getting it through I ran out of time. Here’s where I left it:
It’s the white line there. Connecting it to the B/R vacuum line should be a 20 minute job. I left a little slack under the dash for oopsies, which with me, I’m sure will be needed.
For the wide band, I almost want to go through the floor instead of the firewall. I may drill and put a grommet for that cause I have to get an entire connector through.
Got the vacuum line hooked up. Should complete the boost gauge install. Besides finishing the wide band install ( weld bung, install O2 sensor and run line from kick panel to O2 sensor ) I believe everything is done. Just need to start her up and burp the coolant… again. It’s surprising how I can’t get like 30 minutes alone to let the car idle with occasional revving it up a few times.
As you can see I left a loop of excess in the engine bay as well just in case. I still cut off quite a bit of the hose length to get it to this point.
As you can see I left a loop of excess in the engine bay as well just in case. I still cut off quite a bit of the hose length to get it to this point.
You are probably already aware but now is a good time to mention:
Don't clock the bung at any angle where water from condensation can drip on it.
[Be] the water as you visualize the flow
Don't clock the bung at any angle where water from condensation can drip on it.
[Be] the water as you visualize the flow
Yes if I recall the sensor needs to be at at least a 10 degree angle upwards, and a certain distance from the collector.You are probably already aware but now is a good time to mention:
Don't clock the bung at any angle where water from condensation can drip on it.
[Be] the water as you visualize the flow
I also ordered ONE MORE serpentine belt. 89.5”, see if that works a little better than my 90.31” belt.
Started the car up this morning as my wife took our daughter to school, so i had just a little bit of time. I want to get the coolant burped... that's really the only thing holding me back from giving it a test drive. Ended up still not having enough time to get it fully up to temp before i had to leave for work, and didn't want to be revving it up at 7:30am for my neighbors sake. Anyways, boost gauge looks like its all working properly, at idle with engine 'warm' it was reading 16 to 17hg which i believe is good for idle.
On a side note, i finally emailed MM to check status of my panhard bar. Invoice stated 2-3 weeks, and this Friday will be 6 weeks. Haven't heard a peep so I thought i'd check in. Still waiting on the endlinks as well.
On a side note, i finally emailed MM to check status of my panhard bar. Invoice stated 2-3 weeks, and this Friday will be 6 weeks. Haven't heard a peep so I thought i'd check in. Still waiting on the endlinks as well.
