Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

[nicholase]

One thing regarding the wideband you might not be familiar with. They are very susceptible to thermal shock. I know you were aware of the mounting position and I'm sure it's been done correctly. But even if they are mounted correct, they can be destroyed in short order by thermal shock. What happens is when you turn the key on the wideband heater immediately turns on. It takes anywhere from 8-10 seconds to get fully up to temp, which is extremely hot. Over 1000°.

If you start the engine after the sensor has been sitting there fully warmed up the comparatively cool and moist exhaust gasses can thermal shock and damage it. Particularly on a cold start with high moisture content in the bores and exhaust. When I had my AEM wideband I wired the relay into an oil pressure switch so it wouldn't turn on until the car is started. There are alternatives to that, like utilizing the fuel pump realy as a trigger for the wideband relay. I feel it's a good safe measure. Those sensors are expensive. I'm always messing around with stuff with the key on and didn't want to forget and start it up.

Not saying this is your issue, your WB issue is probably related to your voltage issue. But it is something to think about if you didn't know.

My current EMS uses an electronic delay and they don't power up until after the engine starts. This was added after numerous complaints of wideband sensor failures from guys sitting in the car with the key on making tuning changes and them firing it up with a hot sensor. All new cars operate this way as well. The sensor powers up shortly after the engine starts and they warm up at a similar rate.


Some good discussions here
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?82423-Wideband-question&p=594899#post594899

 

[AeroCoupe]

Definitely good info and I had no idea about that so you probably saved me some headache later down the road.

 

[gkomo]

One thing regarding the wideband you might not be familiar with. They are very susceptible to thermal shock. I know you were aware of the mounting position and I'm sure it's been done correctly. But even if they are mounted correct, they can be destroyed in short order by thermal shock. What happens is when you turn the key on the wideband heater immediately turns on. It takes anywhere from 8-10 seconds to get fully up to temp, which is extremely hot. Over 1000°.

If you start the engine after the sensor has been sitting there fully warmed up the comparatively cool and moist exhaust gasses can thermal shock and damage it. Particularly on a cold start with high moisture content in the bores and exhaust. When I had my AEM wideband I wired the relay into an oil pressure switch so it wouldn't turn on until the car is started. There are alternatives to that, like utilizing the fuel pump realy as a trigger for the wideband relay. I feel it's a good safe measure. Those sensors are expensive. I'm always messing around with stuff with the key on and didn't want to forget and start it up.

Not saying this is your issue, your WB issue is probably related to your voltage issue. But it is something to think about if you didn't know.

My current EMS uses an electronic delay and they don't power up until after the engine starts. This was added after numerous complaints of wideband sensor failures from guys sitting in the car with the key on making tuning changes and them firing it up with a hot sensor. All new cars operate this way as well. The sensor powers up shortly after the engine starts and they warm up at a similar rate.


Some good discussions here
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?82423-Wideband-question&p=594899#post594899

Ya great info. I always start the car up right away to prevent the thermal shock (I did actually know about that)… but… in anticipation for the car being down a while once I move back in and start wrenching again I may try some of these ideas out because I anticipate many KOEO scenarios and don’t really want the wideband sensor heating up on its own a lot.

 

[Stang337]

So took a break to fill up the tank. On the way back there is a long 'side street' so i did a pull in 2nd gear. MAJOR cut out twice in much lower RPMs. I wasn't exactly staring at the RPM gauge but it cut out around 3,500 and then again at like 4-4500 RPMs (sort of guessing). No major noises, not pinging, just power cuts out. Freaked me out since it happened much lower in the RPM range than what i'm used to. It bucked like crazy.

So, i then shifted into third and made a pull again. This time, no cutout but i was only able to get up to like 4,500 RPM before i ran out of road and had to slow down. Something is going on with my ignition system i think. Maybe my PIP is going out. The car makes no odd noises, just cuts power completely. I briefly glanced at the AFR gauge on the 3rd gear pull and it was in the low 12's (at least when i looked).

Car pulls strong up until it doesn't though.

Edit: oh and i think the coil buzzing is the 'play' between the core and the housing. I jammed a ziptie in between one of the sides so its sturdy now. I'll see if that works, if it does, i'll get a more permanent solution rigged up.

Thanks for this!! So I had replaced my FP with a 255 as most thought that was my issue, but ended up the coil. Since I replaced both and heard a buzzing sound I figured it had to do with the FP. Wrong, I put a small wire tie in between the new coil and the plastic snap on around the coil, one all the around the coil between the heat sink and lastly one small piece on each side between the housing and the mounting bracket, wouldn't you know there's no buzz!!

 

[gkomo]

My alternator died so the car is just sitting. Did not get a chance to do a ‘permanent solution’ before that happened but will be rigging something up like you have.

Speaking of fuel pumps… add the aeromotive fuel pump wiring kit onto my list of things to do. Picked up the kit from LMR on their Memorial Day sale.

 

[gkomo]

Walked the house yesterday. They have the entire second floor framed now so I can actually go upstairs and walk around and see where things are physically. Pretty cool. Had my daughter with me so i was keeping tabs on her in the construction zone so no photos. She got to see her new room and all that. She was excited but was more excited to try and sweep up all the saw dust everywhere.

Main reason i went though was to check in on our golf cart batteries. It dawned on me like last week that the golf cart has just been sitting for the past 5/6 months without power, but 'on'. We did a lithium battery upgrade to it a few years back and i was worried all three batteries would be drained down too low to recover. The voltage LCDs on each battery were blank. However, i found a working outlet, plugged in the cart and checked again and all three were showing 48v or higher. Maybe they have an internal shut down mechanism if they haven't been used in some period of time. Who knows but i think we are good with those batteries still thankfully. That was an expensive upgrade for those batteries.

 

[gkomo]

Eww, went through and created a spreadsheet of everything i've spent on the Mustang since buying it (probably missing a few odds and ends) as well as some labor charging for things like an alignment. A little concerning considering the car isn't even running haha

I have roughly $500 more to spend (plus tax) on things for the head swap. I think i'll cool it after that.

 

[Noobz347]

Eww, went through and created a spreadsheet of everything i've spent on the Mustang since buying it (probably missing a few odds and ends) as well as some labor charging for things like an alignment. A little concerning considering the car isn't even running haha

Worst plan ever.

Only one list matters: The one with things on it that you want to do.

 

[gkomo]

Worst plan ever.

Only one list matters: The one with things on it that you want to do.

Well the goal was to create a list of all the parts i've been gathering since i have some in the garage, some in storage, some with me at my parents... Lots of parts all over the place and i don't want to 'forget' that i've bought something already if i think i need to buy it again. I just added the cost and vendor when creating this list. Ya, shouldn't have done that!

 

[91AOD5.0LX]

Eww, went through and created a spreadsheet of everything i've spent on the Mustang since buying it

Do not do that! lol
I started a folder when I bought the car and quickly stopped keeping track once I realized that for the initial cost of the car and all the [things] I did and bought for it, that I could have bought a house (kidding - kinda sorta) instead of an old A$$ broke but shiney automatic plain Lx! Hahaha
We are all in the same boat so don’t stress it. Keep adding to that list and having fun. It’s a sickness. lol

 

[gkomo]

Just need to password protect the spreadsheet, store on a portable USB thumb drive hidden in a secret safe buried underground in a location only known to me.... so my wife never finds it.

 

[Noobz347]

Just need to password protect the spreadsheet, store on a portable USB thumb drive hidden in a secret safe buried underground in a location only known to me.... so my wife never finds it.

You better add a time-lock too. If you come home and she's in matching panties and bra... Your security measures mean nothing.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Just delete the dollar amounts.

 

[gkomo]

You know me, can’t do so I sit here researching things on YouTube. As mentioned one of my biggest anxieties for the future head swap is the valve train setup. If anyone wants to take the time to watch this video… is this a good way to do it? I’ve always heard you should pre soak lifters but he says you don’t need to. Also wondering if this method is good with the engine still in the car:


View: https://youtu.be/5EGlb_VpTAw?si=vrMKvfIzCI24BRHo

 

[General karthief]

I'm gonna tell ya I wouldn't install lifters without a good oil soak, new or used but you do what you feel works.

 

[gkomo]

I'm gonna tell ya I wouldn't install lifters without a good oil soak, new or used but you do what you feel works.

Haha I have no idea what I’m doing. Want to learn but also want to learn the right way.

 

[General karthief]

Do'n it right I don't know about, I'm just lucky so far

 

[nicholase]

What's your end goal for the car? Doing heads in car is a big job. Not saying you can't do it, but it's a lot of work in mostly uncomfortable positions. I'd hate to see you go through all that only to find the oil fouling plug is a cylinder issue. That would be pretty discouraging.

Have you considered pulling it and taking it to a machine shop for a refresh and head install? Pulling and installing a motor is much more straight forward. A stock refresh should be fine. Being time is a big factor for you that would probably be the fastest, less time consuming approach.

 

[Noobz347]

On the lifters: There's no issue that I'm aware of with pre-soaking them.

There have been issues with pumping them up with a syringe. It used to be common practice.

Pre-soak or no pre-soak, all the guess work is removed if you run the oil pump (backwards) before first start until you have oil pressure. Order the drill-shaft for this if you don't already have one. It's better than dropping a socket down the oil galley.

 

[gkomo]

What's your end goal for the car? Doing heads in car is a big job. Not saying you can't do it, but it's a lot of work in mostly uncomfortable positions. I'd hate to see you go through all that only to find the oil fouling plug is a cylinder issue. That would be pretty discouraging.

Have you considered pulling it and taking it to a machine shop for a refresh and head install? Pulling and installing a motor is much more straight forward. A stock refresh should be fine. Being time is a big factor for you that would probably be the fastest, less time consuming approach.

Goal number one is learning to do something I haven’t done before. Goal number two is just installing the heads since I have them and hope it fixes my issue.

I’ve gotten quotes in the $7k range for an engine rebuild (with adding the new heads). That’s not quite on the budget with how much we are spending on this remodel (times that by 100!)

I could do it in stages with no timeline which is why I was thinking of tackling it myself. Pulling an engine seems more difficult because my garage isn’t long enough where I’d have to do it in one go or else I wouldn’t be able to close the door… also right outside the garage the driveway slopes downward.

So I think it’s either I do the head swap myself or just pay a shop to do a whole rebuild. Quote for just heads was $3k.