Same as I do the engine bay. Strip to metal, smooth as much as needed and grind and smooth all the welds on the backside as well. Then epoxy, sand and 2k primer.@Noobz347 - Yes I do and I give zeros about hurt feelings.
@95steedamustang - What do you do with or how do you prep the inner wheel well side?
I think I actually prefer the tubular Radiator support (even though you won't see it), that guy has good taste.You bet man. We hosed it on. 90% will be blocked off and prime…prime again. Like this guys bay. Know him?
What brand?The stuff Im using is basically sprayable bondo but is direct to metal as well. It requires a 2.0 tip and your looking at a half gallon. To start
I have family that's be doing collision and resto work since before I was born. Its why I made the joke, too often you see shrink back or cracking issues in the bays when people do the smooth engine bay jobs at home and just slap on any old filler, not a knock at the work I know what it takes to do it right.PFFFTTT!!!! This is just the first round of about 100 primer coats (trust me, I know), and that is how it is magical.
I use all metal filler on engine bays. Sands like a brick but it stands the heat. This is mustang engine bay number 30 Ive done over the last 20 yrs.What brand?
I have family that's be doing collision and resto work since before I was born. Its why I made the joke, too often you see shrink back or cracking issues in the bays when people do the smooth engine bay jobs at home and just slap on any old filler, not a knock at the work I know what it takes to do it right.
I have used that product in my past... Worked great....I use all metal filler on engine bays. Sands like a brick but it stands the heat. This is mustang engine bay number 30 Ive done over the last 20 yrs.
The pinch weld is where three pieces of metal come together. I cut the excess off and weld the three pieces together when I smooth it so its actually stronger fully welded together rather than the excess just being spotted like factoryDoesn’t removing the pinch weld on the firewall remove some structural integrity? Or is it not that important?
Structural integrity on these tin cans? The plating he does adds more rigidity then the factory spot welds.
The pinch weld is where three pieces of metal come together. I cut the excess off and weld the three pieces together when I smooth it so its actually stronger fully welded together rather than the excess just being spotted like factory
Wasn’t sure how much you cut out. So you just cut it flush and weld it up…… got it! Thanks!Like the stock firewall metal is all cut out and gone.
Hence the reason the build threads for the cars at K and K don't get new pics every week... you won't be able to tell in a picture but if you were there you'd be able to see.Ok now, it just looks like the last set of images except there's more dust on the floor.
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