I have a 2000 GT with 53,000 miles.
My second gear synchro is grinding when shifted too quickly above 3,000 RPM or so.
I can keep it from grinding if I really ease it into second, but I have to consciously keep it from grinding. Yes, I've made sure I'm pressing in the clutch pedal all the way.
Tranny occasionally kicks back out of second and fourth gears when you try to shift into them.
Sometimes hard to shift into first at a stop.
Also, when you have a cold winter morning, it sometimes does not want to go into any gear other than first or second until the transmission warms up. When this happens, the shift lever WILL NOT MOVE from side to side, only straight forward into first, or straight back into second. As the car is driven in first and second gears, the shifter gets looser until it’s normal.
Should I try swapping out trans fluid for Mobil 1 ATF? Could that solve any of these issues? It would just be a waste of money (literally down the drain) if I then take it to a dealer for work.
I have Ford’s 5 year / 75,000 mile Powertrain Extended Warranty.
The car has a Steeda Tri-Ax and a King Cobra clutch.
The question: Should I try to get the synchro fixed under the warranty?
Or will a Ford dealer say they won’t cover it because of the Tri-Ax and King Cobra.
I could put the stock shifter back on, but the clutch would still be a tip-off once they take it apart.
I’m in the metro Detroit area if anyone knows of mod-friendly dealers.
I’ve heard Varsity in Ann Arbor is pretty lenient … is that true?
Here’s a short history of my car:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,282 miles … Engine blew. Left me stranded out of state at 10 o’clock on a Sunday night. ALL of the coolant found in the oil. New engine installed under warranty. Took about two weeks. Then I had to drive 320 miles round-trip to get my car back.
Pitched a b**** to Ford and they gave me the 5/75 Powertrain coverage as a consolation prize.
Since then:
* Traction Lok rebuilt under warranty.
* Coolant recovery tank replaced under warranty.
* Heater Core Restrictor installed under warranty – didn’t solve “humming.”
* Traction Control Switch replaced under warranty.
* Parking Brake fixed under recall.
* OEM Goodyears developed sidewall bubble at 33,000 miles; replaced at own expense with Nitto 555 Street Radials.
* Right rear caliper seized up – fixed at own expense.
* Clutch replaced at 44,000 miles due to slipping. Replaced with FRPP King Cobra at own expense (work done at uncle’s shop). Discovered there was plenty of friction material left on OEM disc. It was slipping because the pivot bolt was not fully tightened at the factory, and had backed itself out. Tightened it and applied Locktite. New clutch disc installed anyway.
That’s about it!
Any thoughts?
Thanks a bunch,
VGT
My second gear synchro is grinding when shifted too quickly above 3,000 RPM or so.
I can keep it from grinding if I really ease it into second, but I have to consciously keep it from grinding. Yes, I've made sure I'm pressing in the clutch pedal all the way.
Tranny occasionally kicks back out of second and fourth gears when you try to shift into them.
Sometimes hard to shift into first at a stop.
Also, when you have a cold winter morning, it sometimes does not want to go into any gear other than first or second until the transmission warms up. When this happens, the shift lever WILL NOT MOVE from side to side, only straight forward into first, or straight back into second. As the car is driven in first and second gears, the shifter gets looser until it’s normal.
Should I try swapping out trans fluid for Mobil 1 ATF? Could that solve any of these issues? It would just be a waste of money (literally down the drain) if I then take it to a dealer for work.
I have Ford’s 5 year / 75,000 mile Powertrain Extended Warranty.
The car has a Steeda Tri-Ax and a King Cobra clutch.
The question: Should I try to get the synchro fixed under the warranty?
Or will a Ford dealer say they won’t cover it because of the Tri-Ax and King Cobra.
I could put the stock shifter back on, but the clutch would still be a tip-off once they take it apart.
I’m in the metro Detroit area if anyone knows of mod-friendly dealers.
I’ve heard Varsity in Ann Arbor is pretty lenient … is that true?
Here’s a short history of my car:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2,282 miles … Engine blew. Left me stranded out of state at 10 o’clock on a Sunday night. ALL of the coolant found in the oil. New engine installed under warranty. Took about two weeks. Then I had to drive 320 miles round-trip to get my car back.
Pitched a b**** to Ford and they gave me the 5/75 Powertrain coverage as a consolation prize.
Since then:
* Traction Lok rebuilt under warranty.
* Coolant recovery tank replaced under warranty.
* Heater Core Restrictor installed under warranty – didn’t solve “humming.”
* Traction Control Switch replaced under warranty.
* Parking Brake fixed under recall.
* OEM Goodyears developed sidewall bubble at 33,000 miles; replaced at own expense with Nitto 555 Street Radials.
* Right rear caliper seized up – fixed at own expense.
* Clutch replaced at 44,000 miles due to slipping. Replaced with FRPP King Cobra at own expense (work done at uncle’s shop). Discovered there was plenty of friction material left on OEM disc. It was slipping because the pivot bolt was not fully tightened at the factory, and had backed itself out. Tightened it and applied Locktite. New clutch disc installed anyway.
That’s about it!
Any thoughts?
Thanks a bunch,
VGT