00 Gt ?'s...

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Matts03

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May 20, 2004

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May 20, 2004

#1

• May 20, 2004

• #1

Just starting to look for a new car for my girl. We're lookin at anything 2000 or newer, gt, 5 speed, convertible. We are goin to look at a few we like this weekend. I was just wondering if there is anything to look for that is vehicle specific to GT mustangs. I know certain other cars are known to blow head gaskets and such just wondering if mustang Gts were notortious for anything. I want this car almost more than she does, and cant wait to start modding it, but i also want to make sure she gets a car thats gonna last her without some major problem. Thanks in advance guys.

Matt
Cali

 

MT1083

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Sep 16, 2003

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Charlotte, NC

May 20, 2004

#2

• May 20, 2004

• #2

I haven't had any problems out of mine. The 00's have the T-45 tranny which doesn't seem to have as many problems as the 3650 tranny.

 

BLKVERT

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Jan 19, 2004

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SATX

May 20, 2004

#3

• May 20, 2004

• #3

I will agree.../knocks on wood/ very reliable as long as basic matenance is done to them. Interesting on the T-45...did not know that.

 

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TARZAN

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Apr 25, 2003

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Philly MS

May 20, 2004

#4

• May 20, 2004

• #4

Keep it well maintenced, and you should be just fine for a long time to come. The 99+ 4.6's basically have all the lil things tweeked out (finally).

A 2000+ convertible will come with some stock subframe connectors. I'd suggest ditching em for a set of aftermarket weld in connectors. The convertibles allow for a bit more chassis flex, roll,etc.... and over time they can start to leak around the windows. A $50 set of subframe connectors can fix that problem though. And they'll make the car feel much more firm, and trustworthy in daily cornering etc.

-Will

 

ScottyG00GT

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May 10, 2003

141

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19

South-Central PA

May 20, 2004

#5

• May 20, 2004

• #5

I agree on the subframes, even in a coupe. Huge diff.

By the way, on all these cars, your IAC valve WILL wear out every 30-50,000 miles. You will know when this happens when you start the car and it won't idle, but will run fine with your foot on the gas. It's a 10-minute DIY project and a $50 part (I got mine at NAPA).

And that in 56,000 miles is the only thing that has ever gone wrong with my car.

 

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blockhead

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Feb 24, 2004

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May 20, 2004

#6

• May 20, 2004

• #6

i agree my 2000 runs like a champ and i took it from a guy who didnt baby it.. its currently at 74,000 miles and besides the normal ware and tare nothing has gone wrong.. thats including the IAC that ScottyG00GT mention.. dam i guess i better check it.. heheh i run it fast and hard and just now im starting to hear creaks and squeks maybe its time for better subs frames.. i drove my friends GT with his new sub-frames and it handled very well.. man i cant wait to get mine upgraded.

 

JCKnife

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Feb 21, 2002

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Ohio

May 20, 2004

#7

• May 20, 2004

• #7

Another vote for subframes on a vert. She'll be very happy with a 5-spd GT. I'm only at 10,000 miles but no issues.

'00's have lower compression and love blowers.

 

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TARZAN

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Apr 25, 2003

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Philly MS

May 20, 2004

#8

• May 20, 2004

• #8

JCKnife said:

Another vote for subframes on a vert. She'll be very happy with a 5-spd GT. I'm only at 10,000 miles but no issues.

'00's have lower compression and love blowers.

Click to expand...

I'm hoping it'll love a blower

Back on topic....

About the IAC, don't worry much over that, I'm still on my stock one after 70,000, I just had to clean it out one good time and it works fine If you get a K&N filter, make sure and keep the filter oil to a bare minimum. Generous amounts of oil can cause it to seep through the filter, and get on the MAF sensor wires.

-Will

 

GOLDENPONY

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Jan 23, 2002

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LOVELAND, OHIO

May 20, 2004

#9

• May 20, 2004

• #9

00GT 'vert

I have a zinc yellow 00 GT 'vert, 70K miles and very reliable, one IAC valve. I agree about the subframe connectors-the factory ones are junk. I also reccommend tower brace for a 'vert.

 

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TARZAN

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Apr 25, 2003

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Philly MS

May 20, 2004

#10

• May 20, 2004

• #10

He's right, a strut tower brace helps strengthen the chassis even more :thumbsup:

Only thing is, it may get in the way if you ever have to fix some stuff under the hood.

Definitely help though

-Will

 

ToplessStang

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Mar 7, 2004

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Montreal, Canada

May 20, 2004

#11

• May 20, 2004

• #11

The only other thing I see quite often on Mustangs is the rear brake pads seizing up on the bracket that holds them. When this happens, the rear does not brake at it's full capacity. I take them apart and lube the bracket with proper brake grease every fall before I store the car. You'll love summer with a vert.

 

JCKnife

Founding Member

Feb 21, 2002

602

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Ohio

May 20, 2004

#12

• May 20, 2004

• #12

TARZAN said:

He's right, a strut tower brace helps strengthen the chassis even more :thumbsup:

Only thing is, it may get in the way if you ever have to fix some stuff under the hood.

-Will

Click to expand...

I've had a ST Brace on since the git-go, and since then I've changed injectors(twice), plugs, plenum (twice) and installed a blower without ever removing it.

 

Go HoTO!

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Apr 11, 2004

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Mountaintop, PA

May 20, 2004

#13

• May 20, 2004

• #13

Being that I have an '00 GT Vert, I suppose I should have an opion. As far as looking for things particular to this car/year while shopping...nothing I can think of...just the usual issues with any used car. I would agree that the weak link with these models are the following:

- IAC (Idle Air Control Valve)
- TOB (Throw Out Bearings) (5 Spd)

Look for mods. If stock, fine. But avoid anything with an after-market MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) such as the popular C&L MAF UNLESS the owner can produce a dyno sheet. Best, safe mods on that car would be subframes, strut tower supports, gears, and pullies (even pleum and TB are safe too). If you find one with more extreme mods, be sure to ask lots of questions.

When you start the car, pay close attention to how it idles. It should run around 650 - 800 rpms when warm and with the AC off. Turn on the AC, the idle should jump up and them come down. When driving around, the idle may hang at 1,000 rpms, but then drop to normal range after a few seconds. This is normal. An unusual idle could be a sign of other problems such as a lean condition or just a bad IAC.

Play with the top. Does it come up and down fine? Can you latch it? Putting a little force to get it to latch is normal.


Hope this helps.

 

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Matts03

New Member

May 20, 2004

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May 21, 2004

#14

• May 21, 2004

• #14

Thanks for the info guys. Exactly what i was lookin for. Since the car will be my girls, i wont make it to extreme, but ill definitely take into consideration the tips you guys gave, The one im goin to look at in the morn is all stock with an alarm, adult owned. So thats what we are lookin for. Hope my girl can make a decision. We know how woman are about that. Thanks again

Matt
Cali