'03 GT Another Intake Leak, Time for KB 2.1?

Bowtierebel

New Member
Oct 2, 2017
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Ft. Bragg, NC
Ok, so here we go again with a Dorman Intake leak. Without getting too deep into it, first off when I pulled the intake I noticed that the part number on the car was a 615-178. This intake shows to be for Crown Vic, Explorers, ect., although they both have 4.6's. The part number that shows for my Mustang is 615-175. I looked at both intakes beside each other and I could not see any differences between them, neither could the other 2 guys that were there. I think it's a good time to go on and get the KB 2.1. I don't want to to spend the money on any aluminum intake since I've been waiting to get the KB. One thing that kinda concerns me is when I got the first intake off and began to clean the head surface, I noticed that there were some pitted places right where the gasket seals around the water passage. The pitted places are at the front and rear on the driver side head. At the rear is where the first intake began to leak. I replaced the intake with the correct number and now it is leaking too. This time it is not leaking at the head and intake surface, but around the base of the t-stat housing. I am certain that I torqued everything down correctly and in sequence. I also was very careful when installing to be sure that I didn't set it down and slide it around. Now, my concern is that if I get the KB do any of you think that I would have any issues with the pitted areas not sealing well enough allowing for vacuum leaks? I know that it would be best to see the pitting, but the intake is still on the car and I'm wanting to decide what I'm going to do about replacing the intake with the KB before I remove anything, so I can't post any pictures. I don't know what type of gaskets the KB uses and if they would seal properly. What thoughts do you all have about this?
 
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mikeetown

New Member
Oct 30, 2018
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I had this kind of putting on my aluminum crossover for my PI intake swap. Yes i took off the crossover to inspect and see if my used PI intake was good (PI intake onto non-PI engine).

Because the pitting was there, I went and got another aluminum Crossover from another car. That’s what a mechanic reccomended to me. In your case, what if you rubbed high temp RTV, a very very light amount over the cleanedpitted surfaces to help seal that area?

It’s that or get replacement heads
 

Bowtierebel

New Member
Oct 2, 2017
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Ft. Bragg, NC
Thanks Mikeet, I've been really researching about this and I really wish I could post some pics. From what I have seen from other posts and pics on you tube and other forums, the pitting on my heads is not bad at all, compared to what I've seen. The pitting I have is mostly with in the circumference of the gasket sealing area, but it is close enough to where the oring type gasket on these Dorman intakes contact the head. Since I can't see it once the intake is in place, it makes me wonder if it is enough to cause a problem. I've read where others have used JB weld or Devcon to fill the pitts, but I've never done this and I'm nervous about getting the surface straight again. I did use "the right stuff" when I installed this last one, although it is awesome on everything else I've used it on, I wonder about it in this application. I'm wondering if the KB or any other aluminum intake that uses a normal type gasket would seal ok. I've thought about using copper gasket spray stuff or other rtv stuff, but I wanted input from others that had dealt with this before. Devcon emailed me back and said that the best product they have for this application is their Titanium metal repair stuff, but it's very expensive. Less than new heads or even removing the heads period, though. I think I'll get a gasket and lay it down on the head to see exactly where it lays in relation to the pitting. WBburns and a couple others have been very helpful before and I was hoping they chime in too. I've found a guy that has a new in the box KB 2.1 kit with some extras that I'm looking to buy, so I may go that route. Still considering what to do, hoping for some more input first though. I know if a normal intake would leak, the PD from the blower would definitely leak. Hopefully someone that has actually done this will respond soon. Thanks for your response. I'll try and keep an update about this for others.
 

mikeetown

New Member
Oct 30, 2018
11
1
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31
Canada, BC, Kelowna
Depending on how much money you want to spend, you could remove the heads and get them resurfaced I guess?

If it was me, I would try RTV and if it doesn’t work just remove the 2.1KB. It sucks but trial and error is sometimes the only way.

However, what kind of gaskets (part #) do you need to use to mate the KB
 

Bowtierebel

New Member
Oct 2, 2017
25
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Ft. Bragg, NC
Looks like I'll be going the JB Weld route. Devcon products are so much more expensive. If anyone knows where to buy Devcon at a much better price, please let me know.
 

allutz

Founding Member
Nov 17, 2001
170
0
16
southeast pa
Hey bud,just saw this..i ran into that problem the first time i replaced my intake. I just cleaned the surfaces up and used a thin layer of rtv to fill the pits. That was many yrs ago at abt 100k. Lasted until i replaced the longblock last year at 266k..i also plan on going 2.1 in the spring..cant wait! Ive got 11k on the new engine now so its broken in and its time!!
 

allutz

Founding Member
Nov 17, 2001
170
0
16
southeast pa
I may actually have a pic of when i took the intake off the old longblock to retain the bolts...ill check.
Gahh...i only have pics of the old block with the manifold still on it..
 
Last edited:

Bowtierebel

New Member
Oct 2, 2017
25
0
1
50
Ft. Bragg, NC
Thanks allutz. That is reassuring. As it turns out the only leak I actually had after another smoke test and coolant system pressure test was a tiny coolant leak right at the bottom of the aluminum crossover under where the thermostat housing is. It was pissing a very small amount of coolant right where the aluminum crossover contacts the plastic. Man, I was mad, thinking I had to pull the entire top back off of the engine just for that. Well, I decided to try a long shot "fix". Right at this place is a void from the plastic being molded. It's probably just big enough to get a pencil eraser in it. I've used "The Right Stuff" many times and after looking up the MSDS sheet on it to figure out the elasticity and tensile strength of it once fully cured, I decided to just fill this area with the right stuff and let it fully cure. I really pressed it in there while applying it as well as pressed on it with a popsicle stick to try and work it any air pocket. The popsicle stick also helped me make it a cleaner looking finish. The next day I went out and spent a good bit of time running the engine looking for any leaks before driving to get the tags for it. So far it hasn't leaked at all and the gasket maker has not deformed at all. I figured there shouldn't be more than 16psi on the system if the radiator cap is working and when doing a coolant system pressure test the factory manual says 20psi. The MSDS said it could take WAY more than this. Seems like it was like 250psi, but I can't remember for sure. As far as the pitting, when the time comes to remove the intake again, I'll address the pitting then. From what I hear about these intakes it may not be too long down the road. Thanks for your response too!
 

allutz

Founding Member
Nov 17, 2001
170
0
16
southeast pa
Thanks allutz. That is reassuring. As it turns out the only leak I actually had after another smoke test and coolant system pressure test was a tiny coolant leak right at the bottom of the aluminum crossover under where the thermostat housing is. It was pissing a very small amount of coolant right where the aluminum crossover contacts the plastic. Man, I was mad, thinking I had to pull the entire top back off of the engine just for that. Well, I decided to try a long shot "fix". Right at this place is a void from the plastic being molded. It's probably just big enough to get a pencil eraser in it. I've used "The Right Stuff" many times and after looking up the MSDS sheet on it to figure out the elasticity and tensile strength of it once fully cured, I decided to just fill this area with the right stuff and let it fully cure. I really pressed it in there while applying it as well as pressed on it with a popsicle stick to try and work it any air pocket. The popsicle stick also helped me make it a cleaner looking finish. The next day I went out and spent a good bit of time running the engine looking for any leaks before driving to get the tags for it. So far it hasn't leaked at all and the gasket maker has not deformed at all. I figured there shouldn't be more than 16psi on the system if the radiator cap is working and when doing a coolant system pressure test the factory manual says 20psi. The MSDS said it could take WAY more than this. Seems like it was like 250psi, but I can't remember for sure. As far as the pitting, when the time comes to remove the intake again, I'll address the pitting then. From what I hear about these intakes it may not be too long down the road. Thanks for your response too!
No prob..glad that worked out for ya! Are you still gonna get the kenne bell?
 

Bowtierebel

New Member
Oct 2, 2017
25
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Ft. Bragg, NC
I still plan to. I like the idea of the KB as far as the install and the instant torque response. My friend that built engine for me has begun to sway towards a turbo setup because he sees so many cars coming in with damaged engines that have superchargers installed. I live at Ft. Bragg NC and I know that it is very likely that it is the owners abusing these cars beyond the safe limits and/or installing superchargers on engines that are stock or at least not built for the amount of boost they put into them. Ft. Bragg is the largest military base in the US, im told. Many of these soliders get back from deployment and have lots of cash to spend, so they don't care about blowing an engine by turning up the boost. The normal boost I hear about is around 20psi or more. SO, although a Hellion turbo would be great, I'm not gonna redo my exhaust, k-member, ect. when all I have to do is install the KB kit, keep the boost within safe range and good tune. My engine builder friend assures me I can run at least 14psi and be well within the safe limits of how he built the engine. Me? I'd be happy with 10psi and around or near 500rwhp. Way more than I need really, but all I need is the puny 260hp it came with, lol. My neighbor said he has an '03 Terminator engine on a stand, in his way, so.....
 

allutz

Founding Member
Nov 17, 2001
170
0
16
southeast pa
Haha, i know all too well abt military,deployments and deployment bankroll...lol..my son was in the Marines and came back from his first deployment to Afghanistan with way too much money in his acct...lol. Didnt take long for gim to find his dream car, 2002 BMW M3..doesnt end there but i wont bore you with all the details haha. So im actually in the middle of a rolling resto of my 02.. Its a daily driver still(had it since day 1)and i just started the resto 2 yrs ago by completely replacing and upgrading the suspension..ff to almost a year ago at 265,700k i replaced the long block and upgraded a buncha stuff at that time too..currently waiting to get car to body shop to repair the passenger quarter panel that was damaged in a fender bender a few yrs back and is rusting out pretty bad rt now. Once spring breaks ill be finally throwin the KB on it!! Engine is broken in nicely now. Ive got abt 11k on it(277k on the car) and its running great! Spring cant get here fast enough!!
 

allutz

Founding Member
Nov 17, 2001
170
0
16
southeast pa
Aullutz, man I didn't see the pics you posted yesterday. Looks good!
Haha...thanks...that last pic is from 50 ft away and car was wet..lol...cant wait to get it to body shop for the quarter panel. After that im replacing both fenders and putting a Terminator hood on it..not sure if ill go terminator bumper yet. So excited to get to spring and install the KB!!
 
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