03 gt Clutch Job

received_1599956643383082 (1).jpeg Hello stangnet community, first post, first Stang, first clutch job.

Bought my 03 gt 113k, throwout bearing is doing some rattling (I hope that's all it is,) have an excedy stage 2 clutch kit ready to put in.

My main purpose is just for help and recommendations of what can make my life easier. Ie, tricks for easier removal/install, tools needed, and what other parts should I swap out while the trans is out? I've heard synchros go out, gears that give the speedo readings, rear main? Etc.
Thank you!
 
  • Sponsors (?)


It’s very strait forward. My only recommendation is using a ford racing throw out bearing. And when you’re back there replace your rear main seal and re-seal the block/crank cover. Get new trans fluid for the tranny, and replace the output diff seal on the end of the trans
 
Check/replace the TB Fork and ball. Put in an aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster with the stock Ford Cable. I guess you know to get the flywheel resurfaced or replaced depending on the cracks in it. You should replace the pilot bearing also. Check the ring gear for missing damaged teeth. Agree on the Ford Racing TB, replacing non leaking/seeping seals/gaskets is a good idea(when they are difficult to do later) but personally if it ain't broke don't fix it is my "usual" philosophy. Good Luck! Oh and don't let the engine just dangle on the front motor mounts, use a piece of wood or similar to protect the oil pan and use a floor jack or such to support the rear of the engine and take the load off of the mounts which by the way is a good time to check all three mounts. Probably forgot something so check out a few videos on YouTube.
 
Thank you guys. I think I will be going with a lightweight aluminum fly wheel also. The clutch kit came with a cable I believe, just need TB fork and ball, and the the couple seals. Also have some royal purple trans fluid.
What is the aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster? Just piece on the cable? In that case I have whole new cable.
Thanks for tip with the block or floor jack.

So seen some long tubes, how much extra work would it be to put some of those bad boys on while trans is out??
 
Everyone has their opinions so here's mine. At 113k miles changing your flywheel IMO is a good idea but if you drive mostly on the street I would avoid a light weight flywheel specially with the clutch you chose. It's not a long life clutch with it's limited friction surface area. It's a good clutch that has its place but the street with stop and go traffic isn't it. Add a light weight flywheel and you sacrifice the inertia of a stock flywheel and the problems of using this clutch on the street are amplified. Taking off is going to require a higher rev then what you are now use to and it's going to shorten the life of the clutch even more.

For the headers it's 6 of one and half a dozen for the other. The trans being out may help but they could also get in the way of putting the trans back in. Again though, if you are driving mostly on the street I would suggest shorty's. They don't scavenge as well but they work better with the O2 sensors so they create less problems with tuning. This is assuming you are going to keep your car legal.

Just some things to consider.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Everyone has their opinions so here's mine. At 113k miles changing your flywheel IMO is a good idea but if you drive mostly on the street I would avoid a light weight flywheel specially with the clutch you chose. It's not a long life clutch with it's limited friction surface area. It's a good clutch that has its place but the street with stop and go traffic isn't it. Add a light weight flywheel and you sacrifice the inertia of a stock flywheel and the problems of using this clutch on the street are amplified. Taking off is going to require a higher rev then what you are now use to and it's going to shorten the life of the clutch even more.

For the headers it's 6 of one and half a dozen for the other. The trans being out may help but they could also get in the way of putting the trans back in. Again though, if you are driving mostly on the street I would suggest shorty's. They don't scavenge as well but they work better with the O2 sensors so they create less problems with tuning. This is assuming you are going to keep your car legal.

Just some things to consider.
Thanks I appreciate it. When I bought the car it came with that stage 2 clutch so I figured why not just use that. I do daily drive street only in town mostly.
It's hard to research which is better but I did find others do say it's a pain to street with a lightweight flywheel but also other say it doesn't matter to them. Definitely don't want to have to change it sooner than normal. Probably sell by then anyway.

What about the billet steel lighter ones vs stock?