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03ghoststang help please

  • Thread starter Thread starter fast97gt
  • Start date Start date Jan 9, 2007

fast97gt

Active Member
Jan 2, 2007
1,082
2
49
north carolina
Jan 9, 2007
#1
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #1
i need clearafication on a write up you did on gear install, i had 4.10s installed by a shop and i got a pinion whine i think and the shop wont do nothing about it he says that he wouldnt warrenty anything cause i supplied the gears and nothing else but he put a new rear pinion bearing on the pinion gear and dont no why cause the other is fine but any way im gonna tear it down myself and you write is so siple accept one thing explain what pinion preload is, cause the torque specs i got is like 140ft pounds on the pinion nut but your torque specs are like 8 to 14 inch pounds please explain because i no they did a bad install.
P.S. ive rebuilt auto and man trans and ive BUILT engines that exceeded 500 hp on several occations so i no that i can do this
thinks doug
fast97gt
 

03ghoststang

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2005
1,930
1
57
Los Angeles, California
Jan 9, 2007
#2
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #2
the pinion bearing preload is done by using a needle type TQ wrench on the nut and turning the pinion until it's withing spec...............


So first you TQ the pinion nut to the 140Ft/lbs then you use the needle type TQ wrench that is in in/lbs and check where you are at, if you land on the specifeid range of 8-14in/lbs then you are set. If not then you stick a screwdriver or punch through one of teh holes to secure the falnge and tighten the nut about 1/16-1/8 of a turn more and recheck till you hit the spec range
 

fast97gt

Active Member
Jan 2, 2007
1,082
2
49
north carolina
Jan 9, 2007
#3
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #3
so what im doin is checkin to see how much drag is on the pinion itself right, as long as its within the specified range
 

03ghoststang

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2005
1,930
1
57
Los Angeles, California
Jan 9, 2007
#4
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #4
yes thats all your checking cause if its too tight then the bearings will go real quik if its too loose you can also damge stuff...
 

03ghoststang

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2005
1,930
1
57
Los Angeles, California
Jan 9, 2007
#5
  • Jan 9, 2007
  • #5
but thats the easy part the one that really requires patience and has to be dead on is the back lash and thats what is time consuming
 
9

98GT4Speed

New Member
Jan 8, 2007
6
0
0
Jan 10, 2007
#6
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #6
Were you correct when you said he put a new pinion gear on? If he changed the pinion gear and NOT the ring gear, you're screwed. They are matched sets and if you change one and not the other, it will NEVER stop howling.
 

fast97gt

Active Member
Jan 2, 2007
1,082
2
49
north carolina
Jan 10, 2007
#7
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #7
98gt4speed no imeant to say he put a new rear pinion bearing on the pinion itself sorry for the confusion but yea he used the matched pinion and ring gear i supplied him, but thanks for noticing my typo
 

fast97gt

Active Member
Jan 2, 2007
1,082
2
49
north carolina
Jan 10, 2007
#8
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #8
ghost stang would a new rear bearing and an old front bearing cotradict the two preload specs (new bearingS 16 to 25 inch lbs and old bearingS8 to 14 inch lbs)
 

03ghoststang

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2005
1,930
1
57
Los Angeles, California
Jan 10, 2007
#9
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #9
fast97gt said:
ghost stang would a new rear bearing and an old front bearing cotradict the two preload specs (new bearingS 16 to 25 inch lbs and old bearingS8 to 14 inch lbs)
Click to expand...

your better off replacing both and use the new bearing preload spec, but if the bearings that are currently on the pinion are in good condition and you can remove them with out damaging them then you can reuse them....

I have done many that required new bearings and others that the old one can be use but dont mix them by using an old one on one side and new one on the other side
 
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